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How To Clean An Auris T180 / Sr180 Egr Valve, This Could Be A Good Ide


Rick D4D
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54.2 actual MPG is a good result, well done :thumbsup:

wowow that is excellent, am very happy now. All credit to everyone on this thread and especially to the original poster. Oh I forgot to mention, I did not use cruise control or AC.

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Here is an excellent site for working out MPG (providing you input correct figures):

http://www.guycroft.clara.net/utils/mpg.html

There is also Fuelly (see my signature) and if you have a smartphone you can normally get a handful of applications to try out too.

:thumbsup:

Thanks bud for the links, got HTC Desire HD so will register account and try apps on there.

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I have the HTC Desire and use an app called 'Mileage' and its pretty good and easy to use.

Just be sure to alter the settings for Imperial MPG or you will have US MPG and under read a fair bit ( i did that once).

Apart from the graphs its probably the best app i have used for tracking economy.

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has anyone had problems getting off the bolts? I cannot get the right hand bolt off one the third picture on the first page... I've managed to break a ratchet spanner trying to get it off it just won't budge! All the other bolts I managed to get off though.. It's a 2007 T180 39,000miles

Thanks

A little trick I use to get stubborn bolts out is to run the engine until warm / hot. Then switch off engine and because the engine is mostly aluminum the bolt hole will expand more and quicker than the steel bolt and this should make it easier to crack the bolt.

I've done this on many occasion including getting stubborn spark plugs out.

Hope this helps.

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wastedagen,

that's the thing, the first time I tried the engine was hot after a 15 mile journey! It's really annoying me now.. I'm still to buy some WD40 though, no idea where my can has gone!

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I have the HTC Desire and use an app called 'Mileage' and its pretty good and easy to use.

Just be sure to alter the settings for Imperial MPG or you will have US MPG and under read a fair bit ( i did that once).

Apart from the graphs its probably the best app i have used for tracking economy.

Just tried the above app, its top and very useful. Thank you

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Thanks Rick D4D for excellent instructions. I had a new EGR fitted to my Rav 4 T180 about 9500 miles ago. Recently fuel economy around town had dropped to about 21mpg !! It also felt a little sluggish than it should be. Anyway took the car a drive today, averaged 21.6mpg. Cleaned the EGR,manifold and pipe. Took Rav for the same drive and wow, like driving a different car returning 30.7mpg!! Only 15 miles driven but what a difference. The EGR wasnt that bad and about half of the 2 holes were blocked in the manifold, infact it wasnt as bad as some of the photos on here so it just shows you. I only run mine on BP Ultimate so even that doesnt make it perfect. Once I had scraped the soot out of the manifold I used those little yellow foam ear plugs to block the holes then filled the manifold with carb cleaner. Left it half an hour then the soot was so easy to remove. Once the RAV was restarted there was no smoke or judder.! Cheers again Fella !!

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wastedagen,

that's the thing, the first time I tried the engine was hot after a 15 mile journey! It's really annoying me now.. I'm still to buy some WD40 though, no idea where my can has gone!

Well I finally managed to get the bolt free! sprayed some WD40 on it but it still would budge, and with my final remaining ratchet wrench being the smaller one, I knew I wouldn't have much luck as it's so small. I decided to risk injuring myself and just use a 15" adjustable wrench with the ratchet wrench, which could have easily slipped off - but hey the presto it came off easily!

Valve itself wasn't too bad, but the manifold was caked in soot. Will let everyone know the results later, I haven't driven it yet!

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well done

whats it like getting the manifold off.

some peole omly go for the EGR when the manifold could be pretty clogged up to.

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sorry by manifold I meant the little crevice with the three ports once the valve itself is off..

Just had a 12 mile drive, trip computer average speed was 32 miles per hour, 3 miles of that drive were 30mph roads, and the rest 50mph dual carriageway. The trip computer still only averaged 31 MPG, and that was light driving, changing at 2100-2500rpm depending on the situation. I'll see how it goes, but I'm still dissapointed with the fuel economy!

Saying that though, my last tank full before this EGR clean out, manually calculated was 34.9 mpg (trip computer 33.1mpg), and that's with 45% short journeys (6 miles each way to work on weekdays) and the rest a mixture of dual carriageway/motorway. Is this about normal?

(It's a T180, 2007 39,000miles)

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sorry by manifold I meant the little crevice with the three ports once the valve itself is off..

Just had a 12 mile drive, trip computer average speed was 32 miles per hour, 3 miles of that drive were 30mph roads, and the rest 50mph dual carriageway. The trip computer still only averaged 31 MPG, and that was light driving, changing at 2100-2500rpm depending on the situation. I'll see how it goes, but I'm still dissapointed with the fuel economy!

Saying that though, my last tank full before this EGR clean out, manually calculated was 34.9 mpg (trip computer 33.1mpg), and that's with 45% short journeys (6 miles each way to work on weekdays) and the rest a mixture of dual carriageway/motorway. Is this about normal?

(It's a T180, 2007 39,000miles)

I would say so as the main problem why you wont see 40mpg and many others dont is the short journeys and the problem that diesel engines burn cooler than a petrol so take twice as long to warm up, the other problem is while your engine is cold your DPF will be working overtime with your diesel to burn off the fumes.

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Brilliant thread this, thanks! Gives you hope when garages quote silly numbers!

Anywys, I've got an Avensis 2.2 D4D, 56 plate, 70k on clock. Had the engine warning, TRC off and VSC lights come on last week. Took it to a local garage and they said EGR. Quoted me £290+VAT for a replacement! I said no thanks so they removed it and cleaned it, I took a look while they were doing it, it was full of crud, but I'm not sure they did a very good job. They kind of implied the warning lights would probably come on again. Which they pretty soon did.

So I reset ECU by disconnecting -ve, engine sounded dodgy on startup then settled down quickly in a few seconds. (Think the ECU must be learning then?) ..and warnng lights stayed off. Took it for an Italian tune-up, basically a half-hour thrash. Lights stayed off, so I was hopeful. Now they're back on again ...GGRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!

Any ideas? Is it worth giving the EGR a meticulous clean? I'm concerned it could be something else, because if the EGR was that full of crud for a while, and no warning lights, why would they still come on if the EGR has been even poorly cleaned out?

By the way the car is running fine, barely any sign of smoke from exhaust, and I never noticed any reduction in MPG prior to the lights coming on initially.

One other thing though, the car was oiled up/minor service at 66,000 when we bought it, but at 70k 2 weeks ago the, oil service light came on, when I hadn't got the manual to check what it meant. Got some wrong phone advice to top up the oil, and might have over-filled it by a bit, but only very little. Oil level is now bang on top mark...

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sorry by manifold I meant the little crevice with the three ports once the valve itself is off..

Just had a 12 mile drive, trip computer average speed was 32 miles per hour, 3 miles of that drive were 30mph roads, and the rest 50mph dual carriageway. The trip computer still only averaged 31 MPG, and that was light driving, changing at 2100-2500rpm depending on the situation. I'll see how it goes, but I'm still dissapointed with the fuel economy!

Saying that though, my last tank full before this EGR clean out, manually calculated was 34.9 mpg (trip computer 33.1mpg), and that's with 45% short journeys (6 miles each way to work on weekdays) and the rest a mixture of dual carriageway/motorway. Is this about normal?

(It's a T180, 2007 39,000miles)

Thanks for your reply Ric, I suppose I should be pleased with 35mpg then! :thumbsup:

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Had five minutes this afternoon so went under the bonnet with a camera and a torch.

th_IMGP3285Medium.jpg

th_IMGP3283Medium.jpg

And from Jukkeli's description and having a good look, the square plastic bit as far as i can see is connected via plastic then metal pipes to the dpf, one pipe to the middle ish and one the bottom ish.

So might be worth, having a blow down to see if it makes a difference?

Just found this on mine, I might give the pipes a blow out with my mate compressor as it cant hurt either way.

Just gave mine a blow out with the compressor. The hose furthest at the back might have been restricted a little (hard to tell) but the front one was 100% clear.

We seemed to have gained another 3-4mpg since blowing the pipes out, with the EGR valve clean I think the MPG has increased by around 25% ;)

When you say blowing the pipes out with a compressor, what compressor? The only tool/thing I have closest to a compressor is an electric tyre compressor? :unsure:

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Thanks for your reply Rick... Would a portable tyre compressor do? A small domestic one... namely the one I bought from Argos 6 years ago! :thumbsup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have just removed my EGR and checked it after cleaning it 5000 miles ago.

There is a very light layer of carbon on it, but its very little and shouldn't need a clean for at least another 10,000 miles if the build up continues at this rate.

I also checked the oil to ensure it was at the correct level, and even after 2000 miles since the service was done, the oil is not black.

In all previous diesel cars i have driven, the oil would turn black in under 500 miles due to the carbon build up inside the engine.

So the D-cat system must to a good job of keeping the carbon down, or the Shell fuel i use is cleaner... either way, its good to know that the engine is in good condition.

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I have just removed my EGR and checked it after cleaning it 5000 miles ago.

There is a very light layer of carbon on it, but its very little and shouldn't need a clean for at least another 10,000 miles if the build up continues at this rate.

I also checked the oil to ensure it was at the correct level, and even after 2000 miles since the service was done, the oil is not black.

In all previous diesel cars i have driven, the oil would turn black in under 500 miles due to the carbon build up inside the engine.

So the D-cat system must to a good job of keeping the carbon down, or the Shell fuel i use is cleaner... either way, its good to know that the engine is in good condition.

It's very aggressive at removing carbon hence why some people get very poor MPG.

On my current car it almost looked like the oil hadn't been changed.

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Hi the last two diesel car I have owned I use Diesel Aid and never had a problem with carbon build up, you guys should use it especially if your doing short journeys.

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The symptoms.

The MPG is disgraceful this time last year we was averaging no less than 38mpg over a tank and around 42-45mpg when driven on a run with cruise control set at 70mph. Over Christmas we did approx 1500miles and have managed best on a run +4oc 31mpg driving with cruise control set at 70mph, when it was cold we was down to 21mpg and have now risen to around 30mpg driving like your gran going to church. These figures are a long way short of the figures that Toyota quote and of what we was achieving this time last year with similar temperatures, it may be worth noting the car makes a pinking sound at around 1800-2300rpm if you put your foot down and there is a small delay / flat spot in throttle response (not turbo lag) when you press the accelerator, I suspect this is the fly by wire throttle system but is it supposed to have a delay?

How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread.

1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips.

P1000132.jpg

2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this.

P1000133.jpg

3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve.

P1000134.jpg

4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed.

P1000135.jpg

5. This is now what you will find.

Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes.

Manifold_Dirty.jpg

Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow.

Valve_Dirty.jpg

6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off.

Manifold_Clean.jpg

Valve_Clean.jpg

Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy.

The results

This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before.

I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide.

UPDATE

Ok it has been nearly 5 months and around 4k since I did this do this morning I thought I would check the EGR valve. To be honest the manifold was very very clean maybe a small less than 1mm coating of carbon and the EGR valve had a little more, I did clean this again while it was removed but in my opinion looking at what I seen today I would recommend cleaning this around every 12months or 10k.

If anyone wants to back these pictures up please feel free as I will be deleting these shortly from my photobucket account and it will be a shame for a useful guide to go to waste, I would also like to say thank you to the people who helped me out while I visited here but will be asking for my membership / account be closed as it seems apparent by the people who keep negative rating my posts to give me a bad reputation my comments or presence is not welcome.

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Rick,

if you are happy to leave the pics up till tomorrow, i will try to host them tonight and keep your guide going.

I'm not sure why you are getting negative votes on here, maybe its because you have expressed your right to change brands (I had a similar thing on a Ford related forum) but that just proves that some people are idiots and should appreciate the help and advice you gave before you changed cars.

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Thanks Dave, yes I know what you mean and will say the Honda forum I use is not as childish and to be fair I don't understand the issue. At the bottom right corner on every post there is a + and a - and if people click say - then the person who posted the comment gets a - mark to their reputation (see your profile), in the last week I have collected -17 and that went back up to -12 as I positive marked a few comments to try it out. Why have I collected so many negative marks in such a small space of time? its not rocket science is it that their is obviously childish users here.

I was going to hang around a little as for sure our next car will be Jap so there is a 50% chance it will be Toyota depending what they make at the time and what we like / suits us but now I dont see the point.

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How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread.

1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips.

1.jpg

2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this.

2.jpg

3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve.

3.jpg

4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed.

4.jpg

5. This is now what you will find.

Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes.

5.jpg

Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow.

6.jpg

6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off.

7.jpg

8.jpg

Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy.

The results

This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before.

I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide.

This guide is only made possible thanks to Rick D4D who has allowed me to host his pics in order to keep this guide for others to use.

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