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05 Rolla 1.4d4d T3 Hanging Round 3krpm During Acceleration


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did 5 mile and seen the mpg flying up :yahoo:

and a downside, after 10 mile i turned the car off, started back up on now the engine management light is on so iam not a happy camper, in to Mr.T in morning :crybaby:

Till now I saw a 15% increase in mileage. Are you sure you plugged back all the connections back to their place?

yea i put everything back ok, car is driving perfect and mpg is way up, did yous disconnect the Battery to reset the ecu or anything ?

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did 5 mile and seen the mpg flying up :yahoo:

and a downside, after 10 mile i turned the car off, started back up on now the engine management light is on so iam not a happy camper, in to Mr.T in morning :crybaby:

Till now I saw a 15% increase in mileage. Are you sure you plugged back all the connections back to their place?

yea i put everything back ok, car is driving perfect and mpg is way up, did yous disconnect the Battery to reset the ecu or anything ?

nope, I didn't disconnect the Battery..

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did 5 mile and seen the mpg flying up :yahoo:

and a downside, after 10 mile i turned the car off, started back up on now the engine management light is on so iam not a happy camper, in to Mr.T in morning :crybaby:

Till now I saw a 15% increase in mileage. Are you sure you plugged back all the connections back to their place?

yea i put everything back ok, car is driving perfect and mpg is way up, did yous disconnect the Battery to reset the ecu or anything ?

nope, I didn't disconnect the Battery..

was in with Mr.T yesterday, egr valve coming up on the computer :crybaby:

now when i put it back on there was a slight bit of bubbling coming from it, this stopped after a minute or two, iam wondering if maybe she needs to be tightened a bit more or if i need a new gasket ?

also instead of using carb-cleaner (i hope iam not going to be laughed at for this) i used white sprits ???? does this matter ???

the car is running perfect..........

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  • 4 months later...

did 5 mile and seen the mpg flying up :yahoo:

and a downside, after 10 mile i turned the car off, started back up on now the engine management light is on so iam not a happy camper, in to Mr.T in morning :crybaby:

Till now I saw a 15% increase in mileage. Are you sure you plugged back all the connections back to their place?

yea i put everything back ok, car is driving perfect and mpg is way up, did yous disconnect the Battery to reset the ecu or anything ?

nope, I didn't disconnect the Battery..

was in with Mr.T yesterday, egr valve coming up on the computer :crybaby:

now when i put it back on there was a slight bit of bubbling coming from it, this stopped after a minute or two, iam wondering if maybe she needs to be tightened a bit more or if i need a new gasket ?

also instead of using carb-cleaner (i hope iam not going to be laughed at for this) i used white sprits ???? does this matter ???

the car is running perfect..........

Guys I maybe just being paranoid but lately I'm noticing that whenever the car is not warmed up (ie gauge is not indicating half the cold/hot reading) and I would floor it (yes I know I shouldn't do it) the acceleration hangs out abit every 1000 revs or so, but this is doesnt happen when it's warmed up..

Question being..is there something from the ecu restricting the acceleration or the EGR is at it again? I've just cleaned it again after 3 months since it was manifesting the same 3k rpm hangabout and got it fixed with the cleanup.

Another one.. is it only the EGR which fouls up since I couldn't not notice that the culprit might not be the EGR but any other passage from/to it ..anyone can shed some light on some exploded views of the 1.4 D4D?

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  • 3 months later...

I was thinking of tackling this in a week or so. It seems straight forward from looking at the above guide but I am worried about damaging the EGR valve (sorry Andycam) as they are expensive! :unsure: It should take no more than an hour to do the job? Would it be better to ask Mr. T do this as part of the next service?

Thanks :thumbsup:

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I was thinking of tackling this in a week or so. It seems straight forward from looking at the above guide but I am worried about damaging the EGR valve (sorry Andycam) as they are expensive! :unsure: It should take no more than an hour to do the job? Would it be better to ask Mr. T do this as part of the next service?

Thanks :thumbsup:

i broke the electriaial pins on the valve itself, not even sure why i had it disconnected?..... will be getting a new one fitted this week, €350 :crybaby: :crybaby:

but yea it is straight forward enough, only 1 fairly tricky bolt to get at

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Sorry for this possibly totally wrong question, but, can't the dip at +/- 3000rpm be something from the tubro?

Because, it's normal that a (1.4) diesel loses some power when going into high rpm.

So can't that be an effect from the turbo?

Not that mechanical guy, but, you never know :D

Grtz

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  • 2 weeks later...
However I drive a lot in traffic and its a continous start-stop situation, so mpg suffers alot. No highways unfortunately :(

This type of usage causes the EGR valve to clog quickly which could explain the issue :)

2. Start taking off the radiator by these 2 bolts (you'll have to tap the radiator's fluid passageway)

9. and everything back in one piece..you can re-use the same gaskets. You'll surely notice that the engine won't start due to the excess of carb cleaner which has now been gulped by the engine, just give it a crank or two and you'll get it back to life in a jiffy, not without a huge cloud of vapour of the unburnt carb cleaner. It will take a couple of engine starts before it starts firing up as it used to.

What does it mean in part 2," you'll have to tap the radiator's fluid passageway". I dont understand what this means?

Also part 9, " just give it a crank or two"?

Thanks

Movistar :thumbsup:

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Sorry for this possibly totally wrong question, but, can't the dip at +/- 3000rpm be something from the tubro?

Because, it's normal that a (1.4) diesel loses some power when going into high rpm.

So can't that be an effect from the turbo?

Not that mechanical guy, but, you never know :D

Grtz

i don't think i read this topic earlier but if its just a dip in acceleration not accompanied by other foreign noises/symptoms then its just the power delivery of the engine. my 2.0d4d accelerates much softer after the 3k mark and even though the redline is at 5k there is literally no acceleration after 4k hence when needing full accleration i change up at 4k

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  • 5 months later...

Hi there!

I'm having the same problems with my corolla 1.4 D4D. I've just cleaned up the EGR but I still got the same problem. At about 2800 rpm, I feel a "dip" and after that half a second or so, the engine works very nice like nothing happen. I even get a borrowed EGR from a smashed car of friend but the problem remains. Of course, there is a chance of the borrowed EGR may be faulty because the car is stopped for more than 2 years!

Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? It has to be the EGR or may be something else?

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could also be gunk in the fuel filter and quality of the fuel you're using. when was the fuel filter last changed?

Hi! I changed the fuel filter today! But the problem remains... I'm avoiding going to the Toyota local dealers because they are very unqualified! The way they use to figure a problem (USUALY), is to start replacing parts till they got the right one!! And of course, they are not cheap!

Anyone got other ideas?

Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi! I solved my problem! It was the turbo! I sent the turbo to clean and calibrate and the car it's good as new!

Cheers!

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  • 4 years later...

Ok but the turbo gets dirty because the EGR is not working properly. I cleaned the EGR and everything was ok for 2-3 days then the problem re appeared. after 3 weeks I decided to re check the EGR and it was dirty again so I decided to put a blank plate, The problem seems to be cleared now but I still have to test it further. The only issue is that the engine check is on, obviously giving no exhaust circulation. I personally wouldn't mind the light as long as it works fine. I will have a look at the turbo as see if its dirty.

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  • 1 year later...

Is there a way to test that the EGR valve is working?  There are no vacuum connections to it so presumably it works electrically. There's a plug with six wires attached to it.

Can I remove the plug and give 12v to a pin to see if it works/clicks?

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On 7/14/2016 at 5:20 PM, Garfieldus said:

Is there a way to test that the EGR valve is working?  There are no vacuum connections to it so presumably it works electrically. There's a plug with six wires attached to it.

Can I remove the plug and give 12v to a pin to see if it works/clicks?

Anyone?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went at this again today with a view to taking a good close look at the solenoid. The valve is in very good condition and moving very freely and wasn't very dirty when I cleaned it a few weeks ago anyway.  It's annual test is coming up and I had to get it sorted because once the engine management light (eml) is on it is an automatic fail as the tester is not allowed to do the emissions test.

I got the whole lot off again, no buildup of soot, took the solenoid off the valve, pushed against the spring and it's moving perfectly, no resistance. Cleaned the valve and turned my attention to the solenoid and immediately noticed that there were only five pins in there, one corner pin missing. There are six cables on the plug so I had a close look and there it was, stuck in the plug. Prised it out with a very small screwdriver and pushed it into the solenoid.  Reassembled everything, gingerly pushed the plug back into place, cleared the fault, went for a drive, stopped and switched off, restarted, eml goes off, success.

Now of course the pin is still broken and will probably pull out with the plug the next time its removed but at least I know what the problem is and will start looking around for a second hand solenoid.

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  • 7 months later...
On 3/8/2010 at 8:05 PM, BlackRs said:

Ok guyz I got it :D

I cleaned the valve during the weekend and it's pulling smoothly through all gears. Here's the how to for the 1.4 D4D '05...

1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips.

DSC00023.jpg

2. Start taking off the radiator by these 2 bolts (you'll have to tap the radiator's fluid passageway)

DSC00021.jpg

3. Then onto the other end, where it gets tricky..especially the bolt opposite the one near the Dipstick.

DSC00020.jpg

4. Remove the Dipstick and Black cabling trunking bolts off to gain access to the bolt still holding the radiator to the egr

DSC00019.jpg

DSC00018.jpg

5. And then it's off

DSC00017.jpg

6.Notice the dirty egr opening with black soot

DSC00016.jpg

7. and blocked airway to the manifold

DSC00014.jpg

8. Clean the soot with a screwdriver or something and get it out of the passageway as much as you can..and give it a good clean with Carb-cleaner and a piece of cloth till it shines....this way

DSC00013.jpg

DSC00010.jpg

DSC00005.jpg

9. and everything back in one piece..you can re-use the same gaskets. You'll surely notice that the engine won't start due to the excess of carb cleaner which has now been gulped by the engine, just give it a crank or two and you'll get it back to life in a jiffy, not without a huge cloud of vapour of the unburnt carb cleaner. It will take a couple of engine starts before it starts firing up as it used to.

10. Now engine is much more willing to pull through all gears and even through low rpms..Mpg has start climbing again :)

The fine-print

Obviously this is not for the faint hearted, but for those willing to save a buck or two it's worth a try. Users can use this as a reference and cannot copy the content to other sites. Obviously it's your responsibility to use this post wisely, thus I cannot be held liable for any damage to your engine/vehicle in any way.

 

Thanks for the info on this. I started to tackle mine today but the bolt behind the dipstick has me stumped. What kinda tool worked to be able to remove it?

I have tried spanners and 3/8 socket set but cant get near it.

Thanks

 

 

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