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Reverse Parking Sensors Not Working?


parky1968
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They pick up on the reversing lights on the passenger side. Just check round all the connections.

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Thanks for swift reply Anchs :thumbsup: Just had a quick look...can't see anything adrift there?? :huh:

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Is it under warranty?

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Is it under warranty?

Are the reversing lights working?

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Is it under warranty?

Are the reversing lights working?

This is a really dumb comment so please excuse - The isolating switch hasn't been knocked to the off position by any chance has it :unsure:

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Warranty expired March 10 :crybaby:

Reverse lights still working :yahoo:

Checked isolating switch... not been knocked as it sits behind lip on bootliner :huh:

:help::lol:

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UPDATE!! I can now hear a faint beeping noise when reversing :unsure: Could it be the speaker that has failed? :blink: Where is the speaker sited and is it easily replaced/fixed if it is that?? :help:

Many thanks :thumbsup:

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The speaker is in the left (passenger) side compartment in the boot. Maybe it has dropped down and just needs repositioning.

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The speaker is in the left (passenger) side compartment in the boot. Maybe it has dropped down and just needs repositioning.

Thanks Anchs :thumbsup: I will check that out, once the trouble gets home from work avec the Rav :yes:

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The speaker is in the left (passenger) side compartment in the boot. Maybe it has dropped down and just needs repositioning.

Found the box of tricks :thumbsup: still in situ :rolleyes: doesn't sound well though :wacko:

Any ideas of cost of replacement?? And where to get one - speaker unit,that is!! :help:

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  • 1 month later...

:help2: Update...long story but have changed the speaker,sensors.wiring loom and sensor ecu - still not working :crybaby::wacko:

Any ideas PLEASE!!!

:jawdrop:

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It only needs 12v positive and negative and you have done everything. Are the reversing lights working? Is the feed to the ECU getting 12V Is it earthed?

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:help: Reverse parking sensors have stopped working ??? :crybaby: Any ideas please! :thumbsup::unsure:

Really daft suggestion :wacko: Has the isolating switch got knocked to the off position. I only ask 'cause I did it :blush:

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It only needs 12v positive and negative and you have done everything. Are the reversing lights working? Is the feed to the ECU getting 12V Is it earthed?

Reversing lights are working B) There is power going to the ECU :yes: - assume it's 12v :unsure: Not sure whether it is earthed - how would I know? :help:

If you put your ear to sensor there is really faint noise when sensors are obstructed :o

:help: Reverse parking sensors have stopped working ??? :crybaby: Any ideas please! :thumbsup::unsure:

Really daft suggestion :wacko: Has the isolating switch got knocked to the off position. I only ask 'cause I did it :blush:

Yes I have checked it :yes:

Appreciate all your help/thoughts guys :toast:

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:help2: Update...long story but have changed the speaker,sensors.wiring loom and sensor ecu - still not working :crybaby::wacko:

Any ideas PLEASE!!!

:jawdrop:

Where did you get this lot from? It is a list of the full kit.

If it is all new genuine parts just unplug that isolating switch and try again. The ECU picks up a feed and earth from the n/s light plug.

Have you got this?

http://www.toyota-tech.eu/legacy/Toy/aimuploads/%7B01516C32-6B55-976A-1008-A9BE0DF36B55%7D/TPA400%20PZ464-X0428-00%20AIM%20000%20525-6.pdf

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:help2: Update...long story but have changed the speaker,sensors.wiring loom and sensor ecu - still not working :crybaby::wacko:

Any ideas PLEASE!!!

:jawdrop:

Where did you get this lot from? It is a list of the full kit.

If it is all new genuine parts just unplug that isolating switch and try again. The ECU picks up a feed and earth from the n/s light plug.

Have you got this?

http://www.toyota-tech.eu/legacy/Toy/aimuploads/%7B01516C32-6B55-976A-1008-A9BE0DF36B55%7D/TPA400%20PZ464-X0428-00%20AIM%20000%20525-6.pdf

All new genuine Toyota parts - the old style kit as suppose to updated version :wacko:

What will unplugging the isolating switch do then?? :huh: I won't have the car until Mon PM now :o

Sorry for being trying Anchs :(

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:help2: Update...long story but have changed the speaker,sensors.wiring loom and sensor ecu - still not working :crybaby::wacko:

Any ideas PLEASE!!!

:jawdrop:

Where did you get this lot from? It is a list of the full kit.

If it is all new genuine parts just unplug that isolating switch and try again. The ECU picks up a feed and earth from the n/s light plug.

Have you got this?

http://www.toyota-tech.eu/legacy/Toy/aimuploads/%7B01516C32-6B55-976A-1008-A9BE0DF36B55%7D/TPA400%20PZ464-X0428-00%20AIM%20000%20525-6.pdf

All new genuine Toyota parts - the old style kit as suppose to updated version :wacko:

What will unplugging the isolating switch do then?? :huh: I won't have the car until Mon PM now :o

Sorry for being trying Anchs :(

Have you tested the switch? It is only there as an option so the sensor system can be isolated when towing. If it is broken internally it could be in a permanent off position. I suspect this is what Anchs is thinking. Could be totally wrong though...........

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:help2: Update...long story but have changed the speaker,sensors.wiring loom and sensor ecu - still not working :crybaby::wacko:

Any ideas PLEASE!!!

:jawdrop:

Where did you get this lot from? It is a list of the full kit.

If it is all new genuine parts just unplug that isolating switch and try again. The ECU picks up a feed and earth from the n/s light plug.

Have you got this?

http://www.toyota-tech.eu/legacy/Toy/aimuploads/%7B01516C32-6B55-976A-1008-A9BE0DF36B55%7D/TPA400%20PZ464-X0428-00%20AIM%20000%20525-6.pdf

All new genuine Toyota parts - the old style kit as suppose to updated version :wacko:

What will unplugging the isolating switch do then?? :huh: I won't have the car until Mon PM now :o

Sorry for being trying Anchs :(

Have you tested the switch? It is only there as an option so the sensor system can be isolated when towing. If it is broken internally it could be in a permanent off position. I suspect this is what Anchs is thinking. Could be totally wrong though...........

I have not tested the switch - how would I do that? :huh: I take it that I could do away with the switch - bypass it or something?? :unsure:

Appreciate any help/advice given :yahoo:

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Hi Parky,

If you have an electrical multimeter set it on "DC volts" range ( 0 - 12v or 0 - 30v rather than one of the higher ranges ).

Pull the switch out of the side panel in the rear of the car then switch on the ignition and put the car in reverse. The reversing lamps should come on.

Now connect the black lead from the multimeter to a good earth on the car body and test the voltage on either side of the switch by putting the red probe on one of the switch terminals and then on the other.

If you have no voltage ( i.e. 12volts ish ) on either side of the switch but the reversing lights are still on, there is no feed to the circuit.

If you have 12v on one side but not the other the switch is either in the off position or broken

Now put the switch in the opposite position and repeat the test. If you still have 12v on one side of the switch but not the other ( reversing lights still on ), you need to replace the switch.

If you now have 12v on both sides of the switch, the switch is OK.

Personally, if I got to this stage, I'd remove the boot side panel that holds the switch and re-run the above tests with the Multimeter earth ( black lead )connected to the bolt used to earth several of the circuits in the rear nearside of the car. It should have one or more black cables clamped under it's head. Also check that you haven't lost the earth to the circuit because a wire has pulled out of its terminal lug or maybe got severed or partially severed by being trapped between the panel and the bodywork. What you are looking for here is a poor earth.

Summing up, if you have 12v on one side of the switch in it's first position but both sides of the switch in the second position, the switch itself is OK.

I've just read this again and it sounds very patronising - it's not meant in that vein at all. Let us know how you get on or if you don't have access to a multimeter and I'll ( more likely WE ) will come up with another method. GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:

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Hi Parky,

If you have an electrical multimeter set it on "DC volts" range ( 0 - 12v or 0 - 30v rather than one of the higher ranges ).

Pull the switch out of the side panel in the rear of the car then switch on the ignition and put the car in reverse. The reversing lamps should come on.

Now connect the black lead from the multimeter to a good earth on the car body and test the voltage on either side of the switch by putting the red probe on one of the switch terminals and then on the other.

If you have no voltage ( i.e. 12volts ish ) on either side of the switch but the reversing lights are still on, there is no feed to the circuit.

If you have 12v on one side but not the other the switch is either in the off position or broken

Now put the switch in the opposite position and repeat the test. If you still have 12v on one side of the switch but not the other ( reversing lights still on ), you need to replace the switch.

If you now have 12v on both sides of the switch, the switch is OK.

Personally, if I got to this stage, I'd remove the boot side panel that holds the switch and re-run the above tests with the Multimeter earth ( black lead )connected to the bolt used to earth several of the circuits in the rear nearside of the car. It should have one or more black cables clamped under it's head. Also check that you haven't lost the earth to the circuit because a wire has pulled out of its terminal lug or maybe got severed or partially severed by being trapped between the panel and the bodywork. What you are looking for here is a poor earth.

Summing up, if you have 12v on one side of the switch in it's first position but both sides of the switch in the second position, the switch itself is OK.

I've just read this again and it sounds very patronising - it's not meant in that vein at all. Let us know how you get on or if you don't have access to a multimeter and I'll ( more likely WE ) will come up with another method. GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:

Many thanks for the advice Chris - I will have a look at it tomorrow PM :thumbsup:

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The switch was an option really for if you had a towbar fitted. Unplugged the parking sensors will work normally but plugging it in allows you to open the circuit. If the switch was faulty and closed in both the on and off position, simply unplugging it will test the switch as the unit will default to on.

Does that make sense? :wacko:

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The switch was an option really for if you had a towbar fitted. Unplugged the parking sensors will work normally but plugging it in allows you to open the circuit. If the switch was faulty and closed in both the on and off position, simply unplugging it will test the switch as the unit will default to on.

Does that make sense? :wacko:

Crystal...thanks Anchs :thumbsup:

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