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2003 D4D Egr Clean


Rossi46
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Get a can of BG244 and put it in your fuel tank! It might just sort it out!...

Welcome back mate :clap::band: .

Pete.

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Eh up my mate :drunk: :drunk:

Thought I'd pop me head round the door to say hello. :clap: I see that the site has changed yet again! Lol...

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Eh up my mate :drunk: :drunk:

Thought I'd pop me head round the door to say hello. :clap: I see that the site has changed yet again! Lol...

Hope you're back for good then, yes I quite like the new format .... I heard they got some cash from Power Enhancers to improve things a bit :naughty: .

Pete.

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Ordered some BG244. Will give it a whirl. The manufacturer seems pretty confident anyway!

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  • 3 months later...

thanks for all the photos and info, did mine today after losing power on the motorway yesterday. Was fairly mucky but still movable and got much better with a good clean. I'd like to add the few points though:

- Be carefull when you remove the airbox base as one of my bolts sheared after rusting into the chassis

- I couldn't get a socket head on the left hand valve nut without completely removing the left hand hose and getting pliars into the hose clip was an utter swine

- the hoses do let out a little fluid but only don't continue to flow so I had no need to bung them

Worryingly the coolant in my hoses was a deep orange colour and not the colour of the new coolant in the tank...

Hopefully it'll improve things as it has for others...

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Also remember to clean out the manifold pipe that is attached to it as this could also be partially blocked.

Pete.

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  • 3 weeks later...

great informative photos just done mine and took for a spin no black smoke and goes like a dream for a car thats now done over 300k on a o5 plate ita a taxi by the way,engine warning light is still on though any answers welcomed.

happy new to all

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  • 3 months later...

Mr. Rossi46

A HUMUNGOUS thank you!! You are a top gentleman...not only have you saved me the cost of diagnostics/repair, but I'm now back on the road :driving: having only lost a days work instead of a week :clap:

Bless you

Best wishes

Paul

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  • 4 months later...

Thank you very much Rossi46.

Cleaning of EGR Valve was one of many solutions for solving the probleme of my Avensis.
I have followed exactly your explanations and now my car is OK. It was the good solution !
The left nut was very difficult to remove because there is no sufficient place to insert the tool.

Your explanations and your photos are very precise and very clear. Many thanks !!!
Michel from Paris (France)

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  • 4 months later...

Trying to figure out what does this hose do and where do I need to connect it back. Any help apreciated.

Sorry for "stealing" the pictures :)

post-136317-0-50153000-1387962924_thumb.

post-136317-0-12471700-1387962926_thumb.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, thank you for your pictures, I've done today but I must say that EGR was very clean... I've cleaned with CRC Sensor cleaner the airflow sensor too. And still powerless in low rpm...

When I bought the gasket the guy told me at the oficial service that his car had the same problem and the EGR was also clean, so the mechanic cleaned the Exaust part close to the turbo.

I leave the link, the part is 17141.... What do you think guys???, thank you in advance.

Regards from Spain.

post-123269-0-17904600-1389461015_thumb.

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Hello,

Wonderful photos and explanations. ;)

I had a problem with Avensis T25 d4d 85 kw.: then engine is cold - everything OK - car accelerates wonderful, good traction, but then engine becomes hot (about 45-60 Celsius) - there was a lack ("black hole") of tourque, no acceleration, black smoke from exhaust pipe.

Diagnostic showed that MAF sensor is totally dead. Changed - no result. Thanks for forum members I cleaned my EGR. Soaked EGR in break cleaner about two hours, lubricated that part under electric module (removed electric part from EGR valve). Now everything is OK, car rides very smooth, no "black holes" or black smoke at all.

Thank you :)

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks for this, it worked great for my car, Toyota had no clue what was wrong with it.

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  • 9 months later...

Had some major problems with throttle response once the engine had warmed up. Following this meant I could clean the EGR valve and now engine runs as it did. Thank you so much!

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Rossi, I have the same model and year and believe the EGR valve is well overdue for a clean, (Car has done over 120K and I dont believe it has been cleaned for at least last 70K) Now on my Modeo it took me 5 minutes to remove 10 mins to clean and 5 to put back. You pics show that this wont be the case this time. Do you have any more pics I can see? and any additional advice?

Regards

John

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  • 3 months later...

Thanks for the pics mine needs doing but wasn't sure where to find it ☺

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,
My D4D 4.2 is having problems with intermittent lack of power above 2500 rpm, and it will often go into 'limp home' mode when going up a steep hill, or when accelerating hard.

I brought it to Toyota service, the engine fault code was something like "turbocharger overboost". Toyota has done turbo valve (I am not sure what it is) adjustment and said it would be fine now.

Unfortunately, it was the same - steep hill, above 2500 rpm and 'limp home' mode. I have visited Toyota for two more times, same adjustments and same result. Toyota said that if the same happens again, then I should think of changing turbo :(


I decided to follw the instruction in this post and clean the EGR. Unfortunately, it did not help - steep hill, above 2500 rpm and 'limp home' mode.

Then I decided to make make a blank out of stainless steel and put it instead of EGR gasket.

Great success :) Now RAV4 has no problem with steep hills :)

Preparing for EGR removal

20151003_171221.jpg

EGR blanking plate

20151004_151538.jpg

Blanking plate installed

20151004_151955.jpg

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Hi,

My D4D 4.2 is having problems with intermittent lack of power above 2500 rpm, and it will often go into 'limp home' mode when going up a steep hill, or when accelerating hard.

I brought it to Toyota service, the engine fault code was something like "turbocharger overboost". Toyota has done turbo valve (I am not sure what it is) adjustment and said it would be fine now.

Unfortunately, it was the same - steep hill, above 2500 rpm and 'limp home' mode. I have visited Toyota for two more times, same adjustments and same result. Toyota said that if the same happens again, then I should think of changing turbo :(

I decided to follw the instruction in this post and clean the EGR. Unfortunately, it did not help - steep hill, above 2500 rpm and 'limp home' mode.

Then I decided to make make a blank out of stainless steel and put it instead of EGR gasket.

Great success :) Now RAV4 has no problem with steep hills :)

Preparing for EGR removal

20151003_171221.jpg

EGR blanking plate

20151004_151538.jpg

Blanking plate installed

20151004_151955.jpg

do you not have engine light on now?

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No, no engine light on.

To be honest, I did this yesterday. Tested on few hills, but no engine light. I will post, if I see something weird.

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  • 2 years later...
On 28/08/2010 at 2:30 PM, Rossi46 said:

I decided to tackle my 2003 D4D EGR valve today, after my MPG has dropped from 55MPG to about 45MPG over the last month or so.

I wouldn't say i've noticed a drop in power, as there's never really been any to start with.

After trying a few remedies (checking tyre pressures, new air filter, fuel system cleaner) I decided to go for it as nothing made a difference, after reading a few posts on here.

There are a few posts about the EGR, and one is very good but is for the later engine (mine is the gutless 116BHP 2.0 D)

I decided to try and sort it today and it's much more fiddly than the newer EGR valve location.

Anyway, I hope the piccies are of some help to someone, they would have helped me.

The 1st pic shows the EGR valve location when viewed from the passenger side, with the engine cover and airbox removed.

egrvalve.jpg

This 2nd pic is with the plastic engine cover removed and airbox hose, cover and filter removed. By taking the airbox out access was possible.

After taking the air filter cover and air filter out, 3 bolts are exposed (12mm Heads) undo these and remove the airbox.

DSCF5067-1600-1.jpg

To remove the EGR itself, there are two 12mm nuts and one 12mm bolt holding it on. There are also 2 coolant pipes which I removed (held on by hose clips) which just seem to be for cooling the EGR valve, as one is an input to the housing and the other is the output. Some water came out, so try and keep the hose as high as you can or bung the hose.

The 2 retaining nuts are either side of the EGR valve and the bolt is at the bottom and you'll have to feel for it, as it's not visible from above.

There is also an electrical connector, which operates the valve.

I've pictured the EGR valve removed and the hole it left, for clarity.

DSCF5078-1600.jpg

DSCF5075-1600.jpg

To be honest, although it was fairly dirty inside, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be but (seeing as the car now has 136000 miles on it) I cleaned the EGR using brake cleaner and a toothbrush and manually exercised the valve.

DSCF5077-1600.jpg

I put it all back together and whilst I was at it decided to clean the MAF sensor with alchohol cleaner spray.

DSCF5085-1600.jpg

Anyway i've got a few more pictures if anyone needs any more detail.

I'll report back when i've drove the car next week, to see if it's any better.

If anything i've written doesn't make sense, please feel free to correct me.

Sorry to go on but hopefully this will help someone, as there doesn't seem to be much info about the earlier D4d EGR valves.

Thanks Rossi46 for adding such useful info and to the other posters who have added more advice.

My late 2003 Corolla suffered from the same symptoms as those explained within this thread. I initially thought the turbo had failed but with the help of this thread I realised it was the EGR valve and today removed, cleaned and reinstalled it which was the biggest job I had ever performed on a car engine.
I had to remove the head cover, air filter housing and Battery so I could get at the valve, but that was not that hard to do. You will need a good quality socket set and some long nose pliers, dont lose the screws and bolts, and keep them separate. Dont over tighten the bolts or they might snap (one did on the valve for me, one of the 3 bolts that held the actuator housing on to the main body).
Good luck to those looking to perform this repair. its definately worth it.

Its now working better than it has done in a long time.

thanks everyone!

Degsy

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  • 2 years later...
On 10/5/2015 at 9:55 AM, avensisd4d786 said:

do you not have engine light on now?

Reviving the post v! where did you get your EGR blanking plate from ? and did it have 3 holes ? 

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  • 7 months later...

When i came to take the hose off mine started throwing coolant out any ideas?

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