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Paseo Suspension

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I have a 1996 Paseo and it's been lowered on coil over suspension from what I can see and have read up on it looks like (Fake) coil over to me. My problem is one of the rear shocks is leaking and I would think it would need changing before the next MOT. I can see that the actual shock is made by KYB. Who the actual springs and adjustable coil section is made by I don't know.

I would like to know if I can drop the whole suspension unit out and just change the KYB shock and keep the old spring and adjustable section?. If I can do this is there any other bits too look out for or change whilst I'm there?

And worst case I'f I have to change the whole of the rear suspension what should I go for? I can't afford the expensive coil over kits but I'd like to keep it low.

Any advice would be good.


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this might help you:

Right so this is a two fold thread: the results of dropping my paseo on teins and a basic step by step guide to fitting lowering springs. Firstly you'll need some of these:


and one of these: (other vehicles are available)


You may also need some tools, here's a rough list of the ones i used: metric sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm socket ratchet adjustable spanner breaker bar (i used 24" 1/2 size one after breaking two 12" 3/8) hammer metric spanners: 14mm, 19mm axle stands spring compressors jack WD-40 (or other penetrating fluid) you'll need lots. I started with the front (because if you only manage to do one half of the car a low front doesn't look as bad as a high front). jack the car up, hand brake on firmly, and remove the wheel (i recommend loosening the wheel nuts while the car is on the floor). WD-40 the lower strut bolts ans any bolts attaching brake hoses or drop links to the strut.


Important: remove brake hoses first, ensuring the stay clear and don't present a snagging hazard later on (they are very important). Whilst the strut is still bolted the on loosen the top mount bolts but don't completely undo them.


Now you can undo the lower strut bolts (they will be very hard to free so use lots of WD-40 and the large breaker bar). Once removed roll the hub forward to allow the strut to come away more easily.


Now you can remove the top mount bolts and lower the whole spring and strut assembly out of the turret. Pictured here with spring compressor attached.


I recommend loosening shock absorber top nut at this point. Tighten the spring compressors until there is slight play in the spring between the top mount and the lower dish of the strut. Now fully undo the shock absorber top nut and remove the top mount.


With the top mount removed take off the top strut dish followed by the spring, the rubber/plastic boot will probably come off with it, this isn’t a problem.


Clean the gunk that has built up at the top on the shock and marvel at the difference between you old rusty shock and the shiny new one.


Remove the spring compressor and fit the to the new spring, I put a rag down whilst tighten the compressor to avoid damaging the Teins too much. When you have tighten them sufficiently you’ll be able to slide the spring on followed by the rubber/plastic boot, then the strut top dish finally followed by the top mount. If you have tighten the spring enough you’ll but able to do up the shock top nut with any too much difficulty, do not tighten the shock top nut completely.


Before releasing the spring compressors line up the springs with the indent’s in the top and bottom strut dishes.


Now you can remove the springs compressors and put the strut and spring assembly back in, being careful to ensure the top mount goes in the correct way round. It’s easy to rotate providing you left the shock top nut loose.


Tighten the top mount bolts then refit the hub to the base of the strut. It is advisable to clean the bolts and nuts if you are re-using the old one as there may be damage to the threads otherwise. Don’t forget to re-attach any drop links or brake hoses you may have removed.

Now repeat for the other side. Next is the rear suspension, this can differ greatly from car to car, in this instance (the paseo) me have trailing arms with a panhard rod and spring over shock arrangement (this is exactly the same as the starlet).


Remove the interior trim as necessary to access the rear strut top mounts.


Loosen the top mount nuts whilst it’s still fitted and WD-40 the shock top nut


Now WD-40 the lower shock bolt and remove it, using the hammer gently tap out the strut and spring assembly (don’t get to aggressive as it may damaged the shock).


Now fully undo the top mount bolts and remove the strut spring assembly.


Spring compressors on again and squash the spring until there is play between the top and bottom strut dishes. Using the adjustable spanner and a regular spanner (or another adjustable) undo and remove the shock top nut.


Remove washer, top mount and rubber/plastic boot along with the spring, then compare.


This is the rear strut assembly broken down into its components.


Using the spring compressors squash the new spring until you can fit the rubber/plastic boot, top mount, washer and nut. Not forgetting to position the spring correctly in the lower dish (the top is not so important on this rear strut, others may require correct positioning though). Do not fully tighten the shock top nut just yet, refit the strut and spring assembly.


With the strut back in bolt the bottom onto the trailing arms, I recommend using a spanner or similar the lever the bottom of the strut into position. Tighten the top mount bolts and now fully tighten the strut top bolt.


Now repeat on the other side. Once finished lower return you car to the road, have a cup of tea/beer/something stronger. Oh and enjoy you lowered ride!

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obviously you aren't interested in the front shocker bit. also the best place to buy a fresh set of shocks, either on it's own or as a pair (always recommend doing them as a pair otherwise you get un-even wear and they tire out faster) is from camskill. look up the starlet section of the website and buy some EP91/82 rear shocks. they are exactly the saem part as the paseo, i checked on the KYB catalogue website for part numbers before i bought some for mine.

hope this helps :thumbsup:

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