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Thinking Of Buying A 2006 T180 - What To Look For?


freestyle
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My dash said 44mpg but after filling it to first click I calculated 37mpg. Is anyone elses that far off?!? That is a mixture of town and A-road on a 10 mile, 25min commute mon-fri and similar on the weekend.

My 136 bhp is chipped so this may aggrevate the problem but on a run and i don't hang about my OBC regularly shows 48+ mpg but when i check brim to brim it is usually 39 to 41 mpg, coming back from wales recently i actually took it easy + my OBC showed 51mpg + my Scangauge (dont ask) showed 10.4 mpl + thats usually pretty accurate :thumbsup: Stew

Just a thought, if our obc is showing 44mpg + we are really getting 37mpg then are we not "overfuelling" ie using more fuel than the EMU thinks we are, and could that not be causing the EGR sooting up problems :unsure: Stew.. sorry for OBC..EGR..EMU..MPG..MPL..ETC

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Just a thought, if our obc is showing 44mpg + we are really getting 37mpg then are we not "overfuelling" ie using more fuel than the EMU thinks we are, and could that not be causing the EGR sooting up problems :unsure:

Seems a sensible sort of view, (expect nothing less from yourself :thumbsup:). By the same argument, circumstantial evidence says the 150 D4Ds are reading low (thinks it is using more fuel than it actually is) - so they would be underfueling then?

Maybe, but I've not yet managed to achieve, or better, the offical consumption figures with the 150, so I have my doubts it is underfueling. (Digressing - with a bit of careful driving I can usually get to, or better, the offical figures with most vehicles. OK, sometimes one comes along that doesn't quite get there - so maybe I have one like that this time. Still it does better than the old 130. 150 does 45-47ish, and it did 53-54 mpg with a full car, mostly in the wet, on a recent run to Inverness - so I'm more than happy).

The Japs are supposed to not know the meaning of the words "component tolerance". Everything is supposed to be straight down the middle. I can't helping thinking the so called mpg reading inaccuracies are possibly due to tolerance stack-ups somewhere, or crude compensation up front, for component wear that will take place later during the vehicle life. I'm sure there's a simple explanation somewhere. I cut my design teeth as a "wet behind the ears" grad on EMS hardware but I've been away from it too long now to be smart enough to work out what that explaination is. Aren't most makes with mpg readout "inaccurate"? :unsure:

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I think you are right. If you consider the speed variation between new and old tyres there is one anomaly. If how far the car goes on a measured amount of fuel is a product of work done then that should stack up somewhere near what the injectors inject but probably only somewhere near. I wonder if it is these Piezo injectors that are giving more accurate calculations?

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They are supposed to be faster to response (as you know) and more repeatable, so, maybe, yes.

Wouldn't you expect the primary reason for the piezos is so they can do more multiple short injections per "squashed air" phase than compared with solenoids?

You'd expect the T180 mpg readout to be more accurate than the 130 perhaps then?

Anyway, I expect the dash figure mpg readout is way down on Toyota's list of priorities. :thumbsup:

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Well i've bitten the bullet and put down a deposit and providing that:

a) the aa man finds nothing wrong with it

B) they can find out if the ecu flash has been done (couldn't find a sticker and nothing in service history)

this time next week i'll have myself a t180 (i see what people mean about it going like a rocket!)

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Well i've bitten the bullet and put down a deposit and providing that:

a) the aa man finds nothing wrong with it

B) they can find out if the ecu flash has been done (couldn't find a sticker and nothing in service history)

this time next week i'll have myself a t180 (i see what people mean about it going like a rocket!)

I would not be too concerned if the ECU flash hasn't been done, quite a few on here think they were better PRE-FLASH, IMO if you get it + like it, leave it alone. enjoy your new motor :thumbsup: Stew
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I wouldn't lose any sleep over the ECU flash either.

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I wouldn't lose any sleep over the ECU flash either.

I cannot find any stickers or record that mine has been done and im more than happy with the MPG :thumbsup:

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Just got the written report back (waiting for the phone call), some points brought up which i thought i would share for some input:

1) Water pump not visible

2) Engine oil is low (last service was six months ago)

3) A rattle from the area of the glove blox

4) Tyres have no indication of being run flat

5) Extrernal corrosion of exhaust

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All of the above now sorted.

One question though, do the run-flats have any kind of indentification on them to say they are run-flat?

The aa guy was a bit worried as he couldn't see anything to say if they were or not.

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All of the above now sorted.

One question though, do the run-flats have any kind of indentification on them to say they are run-flat?

The aa guy was a bit worried as he couldn't see anything to say if they were or not.

Have a look at this: LINK

EDIT: Not sure how relevant that info. is as the Toyota/Bridgestone RFT system has the support ring inside.

Owners with RFTs will be able to confirm what markings there are :thumbsup:

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Hi,

the tyres are not actually RFT's as in the link above - they do not have the reinforced sidewalls, instead they have the support ring fitted that the tyre runs on if deflated, and it keeps the tyre bead in place, hence no RFT markings on the tyre (if i remember correctly i think mine are Bridgestone Duellers H/T 687). Thats why they are not marked up as RFT's, because they are not, its run flat tyre technology with the BSR.

Hope that helps.

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Hi,

the tyres are not actually RFT's as in the link above - they do not have the reinforced sidewalls, instead they have the support ring fitted that the tyre runs on if deflated, and it keeps the tyre bead in place, hence no RFT markings on the tyre (if i remember correctly i think mine are Bridgestone Duellers H/T 687). Thats why they are not marked up as RFT's, because they are not, its run flat tyre technology with the BSR.

Hope that helps.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Just to clarify this slightly. The tyres on a T180 have a small symbol on the side that looks like a tyre, this is to denote that it is a run flat system fitted. The tyres themselves are actually very standard apart from this mark. The mark is there to let fitters know that there is a support ring inside.

By the way, on a previous thread I mentioned that I have just had three of my four tyres replaced for £158 each. The garage were confident that the support rings could be removed without damage unlike other garages that warned me it might be an additional £120 per wheel if the support rings got damaged. So for that price I am quite comfortable with the concept.

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Just to clarify this slightly. The tyres on a T180 have a small symbol on the side that looks like a tyre, this is to denote that it is a run flat system fitted. The tyres themselves are actually very standard apart from this mark. The mark is there to let fitters know that there is a support ring inside.

By the way, on a previous thread I mentioned that I have just had three of my four tyres replaced for £158 each. The garage were confident that the support rings could be removed without damage unlike other garages that warned me it might be an additional £120 per wheel if the support rings got damaged. So for that price I am quite comfortable with the concept.

Thanks for that info, have checked the tyres and all have the symbol you mentioned. Where did you get the tyres changed for £158 each? I'm also from norwich so could be useful info for future reference!

Have found the source of the rattle from the glove box, its a panel going from the bottom of the dash to the bulk head, anybody else had a similar issue?

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Going back to the RFs. The tyre lad down the road from me aays he can easily remove the tyre rings and put whatever tyre I want on. if you PM me an e mail address I will send you photos of the rings being removed. Simple job. All you have to remember is to CUT the tyres off and leave the valve in place otherwise the light will come on the dash. Unless you buy new sensor valves that is. Think they are £80 each!"!!!!

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Dudes Man,THANKS,

You have just made something very clear to me here...."CUT OFF" THE TYRES....maybe I missed this point in your and other previous threads, but that was my main concern, was leaving the TPMS system live and working. (I am easily distracted, so a flashing light would have got on my upper abdomen....)

It is still my long term goal to replace these tyres, but in fairness, they seem to be giving me pretty good mileage thus far....14k and looking like will do double that.(?)

Now that I know who in Glasgow has the machinery to remove "The Ring", I can confidently approach him and ask him to Stanleyficate the bleeders. I should re-iterate my hopes for replacing the RFT'S ARE MAINLY BASED AROUND AN EXPECTED IMPROVEMENT IN RIDE QUALITY. If anyone can contradict my aspersionments, please speak now, and save me some pennies in 2011......?

Big Kev :thumbsup:

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