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2.0 Td 99 Doesnt Want To Start Warm


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hi.i run an avensis estate 2.0 td 1999.i like its reliability,if not its performance.i run 4 teenage boys around[+instuments,friends etc.]so you can imagine my consternation when,even after aservice,my faithful load lugger struggles to start but ONLY WHEN WARM.1st thing in the morning no probs.however when i try to start after a short stop it 'coughs'or spins with no results 5 or 6 times,then fires with no issues.any ideas?one suggestion i've had is a 'tired'starter.but as it fires when cold i'm not yet convinced.just done 100k[is the milage significant?]

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hi.i run an avensis estate 2.0 td 1999.i like its reliability,if not its performance.i run 4 teenage boys around[+instuments,friends etc.]so you can imagine my consternation when,even after aservice,my faithful load lugger struggles to start but ONLY WHEN WARM.1st thing in the morning no probs.however when i try to start after a short stop it 'coughs'or spins with no results 5 or 6 times,then fires with no issues.any ideas?one suggestion i've had is a 'tired'starter.but as it fires when cold i'm not yet convinced.just done 100k[is the milage significant?]

hello mate

check with both SCV located on the fuel injection pump body. It looks like they play with you due to either poor el contact or solenoids coils issue. Use megger multitester. Cheers/Igor

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cheers for the advice igor.but what is SCV & more important what does it look like?[i'm not terribly confident with electrics but i'll give it ago]

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cheers for the advice igor.but what is SCV & more important what does it look like?[i'm not terribly confident with electrics but i'll give it ago]

ok be focused on the high pressure fuel injection pump itself. beside of four pipes - you ll see two SCV (solenoid control valves)as also mounted on the pump body -- they are easy to recognise cos both of them have a wire. so the idea is to have them unscrewed and megger tested + compare these actual Ohm data with manual. in case you see either even minor diference -- they must be changed on new ones. in theory -- each SCV serves to allow diesel to be sucted into the pump. both are "normal close type" -- it means their normal position is shut off. when you turn the ignition key to ON position -- the el signal of 12V feeds them up remaining them in lifted (opened) position resulting diesel can be sucted into the pump. and wise versa subject to el feeding is OFF by the same key. and finally then the wire solenoid coil is about to die (burnt out) the valve can not be opened by the el lifting force + giving you the same result at starting. Good luck/Igor

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cheers for the advice igor.but what is SCV & more important what does it look like?[i'm not terribly confident with electrics but i'll give it ago]

hello again

it's just for quick brief -- look at this link http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87986 -- it is for our ravs but something similar wouldl be found by you having refered to your pump. be sure you ve got correct ohmnedance data as for your SCVs.

cheers/Igor

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You can buy the SCV valves from me if needed ;)

Kingo :thumbsup:

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well the dreaded failure to start at all happened this evening when my missus was out with thekids!so my avensis is stuck on top of the most exposed hill top in yorkshire!i hope it starts 2morrow when igo 2 get it.igor thanks for the link 2 rupertrav4 pictures of possible offending items,i know what to look for at least.i'm very impressed by the standard of photos and the explanation of how 2 replace said valves.i will check on my multimeter 4 ohms& stuff over the weekend.thanks 4 parts offer kingo.if those are the bits i need i'll chase you up.thanks again for the help

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