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baz1631

Wrong Fuel

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put petrol into the tank instead of diesel! :censor: Drained tank and cleaned filter but Battery wont start,to pull fuel through into engine.Do you think ive damaged the injectors or something else? I ran the car for about 7/8 mls before it started spluttering.

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Hi Baz,

I'm not sure if I'm interpreting your post correctly or not. Was the 7 - 8 miles before or after you cleaned out the tank? If it was before, you probably need to prime the fuel system by depressing and then releasing the knob on top of the fuel filter a number of times. When you notice that the knob is returning to the "up" position slowly, it means that the system is primed. It shouldn't be necessary to bleed the system downstream of the filter but if things have got seriously airlocked you might have to slacken the end of the fuel pipe that goes from the filter to the injection pump. Do it at the pump end but DON'T touch the pipes on the downstream side of the injection pump at this stage as you might have a problem resealing them. Good luck, let us know how you get on or if you need anything else :thumbsup:

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Thanx for the quick reply three5, I ran the car before the tank was drained.Iv'e got about 1/4 fuel still in the tank, according to the guage, will i have to drain it completely? 'cause I cant get the syphon pipe into the other side of the tank. and also how much clean diesel would u put in to compensate for the mixed fuel?Would 20ltr be enough?.sorry for being a pest but need the car for transport in this part of the country,especialy in winter! the wife wont walk ANYWHERE!

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It would be best to get rid of the rest of the fuel before adding the derv. If there is no drain plug in the underside of the tank ( preferred method of draining a tank ) disconnect the pipe that runs between the filter and the Injector Pump at the injector pump, put the end in a can and pump the knob on top of the filter up and down. This should pump the fuel left in the tank into the can. It will take a bit of patience but you probably haven't got more than about 10 litres in the tank. When you can get no more out of the tank, change the fuel filter and put the 20 litres of derv in the tank. Pump the priming knob until you get derv coming out of the end of the pipe that you disconnected from the injector pump. Reconnect the pipe, pump the priming knob until it is slow to return to the top of its stroke then start the engine and run it gently until you get rid of the petrol in the injector pump. If the engine was running OK when you stopped it you are unlikely to have done any damage.

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:thumbsup: Cheers ma man, heard so many horror stories about this!.will do it to-morrow when its daylight! hope its not rainin' :D will post out-come when done ! thanx again three5

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hi again,as yet haven't filled up with clean derv,but worried the Battery wont start. it wont even turnover and worried there might be something else wrong (damage to engine perhaps?) is this normal when this sort of thing happens? or have i :censor: the engine by running it,(before draining the tank)or is it 'cause there might be a bit of petrol in the engine?

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Hi Baz,

put the Battery on charge - you have probably flattened it trying to start the engine.

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ok chris cheers again I'm "goin' for it" to-night if the weather stays dry! (doubt it :ffs: ) will keep u posted! :thumbsup:

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ok chris cheers again I'm "goin' for it" to-night if the weather stays dry! (doubt it :ffs: ) will keep u posted! :thumbsup:

These engines are as tough as old boots! I'd be VERY suprised if you have done any damage. GOOD LUCK - particularly with the weather! :thumbsup:

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Well stayed with it for an hour,in rain & howlin' wind. Battery still wouldn't turn,(tried jump-start from another car,kept it charging for about 10mins with car Battery)nearly started but only turned a couple of times. Is there a common denominator between possible petrol still in engine and flat Battery? or is it just a REALLY FLAT Battery .(i'm still getting lights,wipers etc.)gettin' really :ffs: anoying now. workin outside in this weather! :censor:

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Well stayed with it for an hour,in rain & howlin' wind. battery still wouldn't turn,(tried jump-start from another car,kept it charging for about 10mins with car battery)nearly started but only turned a couple of times. Is there a common denominator between possible petrol still in engine and flat battery? or is it just a REALLY FLAT battery .(i'm still getting lights,wipers etc.)gettin' really :ffs: anoying now. workin outside in this weather! :censor:

West Yorkshire is dry and cold at the moment but I had a text from my daughter who on Tayside saying that there was snow on the hills there :blink: and heated seats are wonderful!

Quick recap Baz:

1) Pump all the remaining petrol out of the tank using the priming knob on the filter before you do anything else.

2) Change the fuel filter

3) Put your 20 litres of fuel in the tank and using the priming knobrecharge the system with derv

4) Charge the Battery, prefereably overnight

Retire for a hot/warming drink!!!!

5) With the system charged with derv and the Battery full, cross your fingers and start the engine.

6) run it gently for a few miles in case there is any residual petrol in the system.

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Hey Chris, done the first 3, will need too wait till to-morrow to put/ get the Battery charged........don't have a charger, but have a mate with one of those quick start Battery pack things, big bugger in a big pack! failing that, kwik-fit might charge it for a price! Havin a well desrved beer just now cheering you on for the advice youve given :thumbsup: will get goin tomorrow .hopefully!cheers. PS the snows not far away from the west coast ethier methinks!

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Hey Chris, done the first 3, will need too wait till to-morrow to put/ get the battery charged........don't have a charger, but have a mate with one of those quick start battery pack things, big bugger in a big pack! failing that, kwik-fit might charge it for a price! Havin a well desrved beer just now cheering you on for the advice youve given :thumbsup: will get goin tomorrow .hopefully!cheers. PS the snows not far away from the west coast ethier methinks!

I don't have access to one of those quick starters - but they sound a brilliant idea! I guess it's like a lot of other things - you don't need one until you REALLY need one. Good luck fella!

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cheers,I owe u a pint :toast: If yer ever comin' up to Oban, pm me, but remember.........wear a fur coat, its cold up here!

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well, got the Battery back today after being on charge for 48hrs.Battery fully charged........still not turning engine.checked fuses,wireing, relays,disconnected ALL accessories ie: driving lights,led rear lights ,still no life .could it be something wrong with starter,or maybe fuel pump?you can hear "clicking" noise coming from the box below the ecu (the one with the 4 pipes going into it) Greatfull for ANY ideas! :eek:

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well, got the battery back today after being on charge for 48hrs.Battery fully charged........still not turning engine.checked fuses,wireing, relays,disconnected ALL accessories ie: driving lights,led rear lights ,still no life .could it be something wrong with starter,or maybe fuel pump?you can hear "clicking" noise coming from the box below the ecu (the one with the 4 pipes going into it) Greatfull for ANY ideas! :eek:ALLMOST FORGOT! engine turns for just a couple of seconds, dose this mean anything?

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Hi baz,I'd like to add my Tuppence worth.

This is alongside all the good advice given to you by three (is that MI5, B) no,forget that, an answer may mean me being shot :yes::crybaby::help:)

Sorry I digress.

I too have had starting problems, make that non starting which led me to believe that the Battery was flat and after doing the usual checks and having the Battery tested by the local Battery supplier and found to be OK,I decided it had to be the starter.

On the bench test this worked fine,throwing in and turning but on stripping the unit I found that the soleniod contacts were burnt.

These are the contacts that carry the high load from the Battery to the starter.

After cleaning the contacts,rebuilding the starter,and refitting on the car she fired up like a good un! :yahoo::yahoo:

If you find it is the same on your motor and you cannot rework the contacts I have seen replacements on fleabay for about,I think £15

This may,or may not be your problem,but I offer this in the hope it may be of some help to you in getting you back on the road.

Good luck

Del.

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You need to check for 12V at the solenoid wire when you turn the key.

You also need that Battery drop testing regardless of the fact it has been charged.

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You need to check for 12V at the solenoid wire when you turn the key.

You also need that battery drop testing regardless of the fact it has been charged.

thanks for the reply gentlemen,the Battery was drop tested and was ok , next Q....how will i check for 12v. @ solenoid wire? would a test bulb be ok?

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Yes - if you look at the starter it has a solenoid attached. There is a single small wire (ignore the ones from the Battery) and if you disconnect it, put one wire of a test light to it and the other to earth, it should light up when the key is turned to the start position. This is the signal for the solenoid. If it lights up then it is 99% certain the starter is U/S.

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Bl***y hell , you guys are quick with an answer,! Thanks anchorman, I'll get that done tomorrow (mon), .just as a precaution,any idea how much a starter,recon.or new is nowadays?.....without MrT getting my wellearned unemployment money?

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I wouldn't even go there. Make sure the bulb lights then have a hunt around the scrappies or findapart.com.

Here's a bit more reading;

starter.pdf

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Hi baz,I'd like to add my Tuppence worth.

This is alongside all the good advice given to you by three (is that MI5, B) no,forget that, an answer may mean me being shot :yes::crybaby::help:)

Sorry I digress.

I too have had starting problems, make that non starting which led me to believe that the battery was flat and after doing the usual checks and having the battery tested by the local battery supplier and found to be OK,I decided it had to be the starter.

On the bench test this worked fine,throwing in and turning but on stripping the unit I found that the soleniod contacts were burnt.

These are the contacts that carry the high load from the battery to the starter.

After cleaning the contacts,rebuilding the starter,and refitting on the car she fired up like a good un! :yahoo::yahoo:

If you find it is the same on your motor and you cannot rework the contacts I have seen replacements on fleabay for about,I think £15

This may,or may not be your problem,but I offer this in the hope it may be of some help to you in getting you back on the road.

Good luck

Del.

Morning Baz (& Del ),

Didn't check my email last evening so just seen your latest post. Only thing that I would add to Del's post ( and I'm not absolutely sure you can do it on a RAV ) is turning the engine over by had using a socket and strongarm on the Crankshaft pulley. I haven't had to do this for years on a diesel but turn it very slowly and just make sure that it will rotate for a full turn or two.

Starter motor reconditioning ( I have never found this written anywhere else so you just have to take it that it worked for me ) : :rolleyes:

Crofters remarks on the starter solenoid contacts being burnt are dead on at this stage during the investigation. I had this happen on a Land Rover many years ago. In my case the contacts were very burnt and I could not get any new ones ( and didn't have any metal machining facilities at the time ). I removed the contacts and cleaned them till they were shiny bright with a file and then SANDPAPER. I then build up the surface using silver solder ( definitely NOT ordinary solder ). Polish up with fine sandpaper and reassemble. It worked for years before I finally sold the vehicle. My logic was that the contacts needed to be very good electrical conductors, that is why they were made of copper. Silver is a better conductor and used for heavy duty electrical contacts in other applications so It would be the best way of building up the worn contacts. Just be a bit careful that you don't overdo it as you still need a gap between the contacts when the solenoid is de-energised.

Where you are based ( Baz ) I would think that there would be a small engineering shop with some gas welding/brazing facilities. Just ask them to build up the contacts with silver solder fo you if you fancy my solution.

Definitely do as Anchorman says FIRST and check the voltage at the solenoid control wire and then maybe check the continuity of the solenoid itself itself.

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'mornin Chris, Tryin; to locate starter! tried lookin at haynes manual but cant find an " overall view"of the location. can u describe where it is in relation to the driver side of car? or a pic / drawing? really lost on this one !

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hi chris, stupid question i suppose, but is the starter located middle/front of block? cant get an over all view of starter in manual.!

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