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System~G
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A bit of advice please :)

I am about ready to start rejuvinating my corolla and need advice on removing and treating rust.

There is a lot of rust on all four of the wheel arches, some dotted around the car and a couple of really bad spots on the lower corners of the rear window.

Are there any online "How-to's"?

Any specific tools, equipment and products (fillers/primers/anti-rust stuff) etc...???

Any advice apreciated really :thumbsup:

Cheers

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There is a lot of rust on all four of the wheel arches, some dotted around the car and a couple of really bad spots on the lower corners of the rear window.

Is the rust surface stuff or is it right through the panels?

The only one that sounds difficult in your list is the rear window (if you mean in the hatch) as you will probably need to cut out the bad bit and weld in a plate to get a decent seal around the window. The window is fairly heavy and any weakening in this area is not good.

The wheelarches are fairly easy. You clean up with a wire brush, treat with a rust stopper product (I can't remember the name - but the stuff that chemically turns rust from a red colour to black) and then you patch up with filler as necessary.

I haven't looked for any info on line, but the Haynes pages on bodywork are not too bad.

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gone in the usual places then :rolleyes:

if the rust hasn't gone through, clean it up with rough sandpaper, and coat it with hammerite, or something similar. then it's usual prep for painting. To really do the back window properly, you need to take it out. it just depends how far you want to go. :thumbsup:

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Only true way too stop tin worm is cut it out a replace with new tin,or surface sand blast and repaint all the rust eaters dont really work very well and will come through again. :(

I've had good experience with the rust eaters. If you prime it properly after it's OK

I agree that replacing the panel is the surest way, but it's not in everybody's budget :( especially rear wings.

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I see you have a Yaris, it's actually Galvanised... in the most vunerable places...so depends on where the chip is.

If it's down to the steel...then it won't take long at all. within a week and you'll notice it turning.

One thing I miss about y old Renault 19. it never rusts! 100% Galvanised and electrolplated in a Zinc bath, then three more coats of rust proofing before the final tow layers of paint, then laquer. sold it after 11 years...not a mark on her.

Cars these days are just not built to last.

Vipes

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thanks 4 the quick reply Viper and the chip/dent is just above the rear door handle and where the black paint has been lost it a just off metal colour, kinda dull grey! any ideas? Its been that colour 4 2 weeks!

Cheers :thumbsup:

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Sounds like it's just taken the surface of the paint off, and not got right down to the bare steel.

Still best to sort it earlier rather than later. It won't be too big a job for a good bodyshop, probably only be around an hour labour...if it starts to rust, there's more prepersation involved, and thus more costly.

My other half actually had a similar issue...she dented the door just udner the door handle where the pannal is shapped ( hmm hard to describe..especially after all this wine...ie not the flat pannal but that little kink! That looked the same as you describe..it was a dull colour. It started to turn in about a month...cost us 80 squid to repair it. Mechanic hated the job, as it was a real awkward area! Cracking job though!

Get it sorted...won't be much.

vipes.

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I will do Viper but i went 2 a notoriously expensive place and they quoted me £250 cos they sed they needed 2 colour match and spray the front door and the back panel 2??? I mite aswell get my other 2 dents on that door sorted 2 while i'm at it! Just need 2 find a cheap but good bodyshop now!

Cheers :thumbsup:

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£250!!!! rofl :censor: :censor: :censor: what a load of cack.

Get a new door panal for less than that.

It does pay...and takes time though to fine a trustworthy mechanic/bodyshop, that also do a good job.

sure it needs to be colour matched...but that's easily done...especially with black.

small dent paint chip...easily an hour labour, perhaps two...then drying time if they haven't got the infra red heaters.

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Its metallic black and flips from kinda green 2 purple and all sorts! Is it still quite easy 2 match it? I'll be scoutin about 4 a decent bodyshop soon, there must be a cheap but good 1 in Glasgow sumwhere!

Cheers :thumbsup:

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Is the rust surface stuff or is it right through the panels?

The only one that sounds difficult in your list is the rear window (if you mean in the hatch) as you will probably need to cut out the bad bit and weld in a plate to get a decent seal around the window. The window is fairly heavy and any weakening in this area is not good.

I don't think any of the rust has gone completely through any of the panels, but one of the spots (the size of a £2 coin) on the lower corner of the rear window is fairly deep.

I just want the car looking good (and rust free) for the time being. The rust free result need only last a couple of years max. The corolla will be replaced by another MR2 at some point within this time.

Unfortunately, budget is a major restriction at the moment as the following needs sorting for the end of this month:

1] Rear shocks (Both)

2] Downpipe

3] Find and solve leaking power steering fluid issue (problem posted in the Corolla section)

4] Full Service

5] MOT

6] Tax

7] Rust elimination

Damn it's gonna be an expensive month :(

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I don't think any of the rust has gone completely through any of the panels, but one of the spots (the size of a £2 coin) on the lower corner of the rear window is fairly deep.

IMO the rust eaters will last at least that long (they did for me :lol: ). You need to make sure that you get as much of the rust off as possible. I suggest using a wire brush as it gets into the rusty parts better than sandpaper. Remove everything that is flakey. Unfortunately for you what looks like surface rust at first often goes all the way through when treated in this way :( . Clean the area properly (using alcohol or some non-water-based cleaner) to get rid of all the dust. If you still see any flakey or really red parts then continue with the wire brushing.

Once the area is clean & dry apply the rust eater. Make sure that you cover the whole of the rusty area as well as any exposed metal. Also make sure that it goes into every nook and cranny. OTOH do your best not to let it drip on the paintwork.

Once it has done its job (the rust should look black and no longer be flakey) you can prime & fill as normal.

It's a finnicky job, but apart from the paint it shouldn't cost a fortune.

The rear hatch you have to consider how close you are to the window. If it is still surface rust and the edge isn't touching the rubber seal then you can just do like I said above. Otherwise...

Get someone to help you take the rear window out. Treat the area like I said above. If there is no hole once you have finished brushing the rust off then you're OK - you can treat as above & put the window back in.

If you are left with a hole that doesn't touch the rim where the window seals then you can use a bit of wire mesh and body filler to fill it in. This isn't strong so I wouldn't suggest it as a permanent repair, but for the timescale you're talking about it should be OK.

If you have a hole that touches the rim where the window seals then I would strongly recommend welding a plate on. You can get away without it, but you're likely to have leaks, and before long the filler & mesh will warp under the window's weight, leaving an unsightly mess.

Good luck :thumbsup:

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