(4.2 D4D) Oil Types For Transmission, Transfer Case And Rear Different

[Sensei]

About to change all the oils on my 03 D4D, but I'm not sure I've found the right oils.

For manual transmission my Haynes manual specifies API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 gear oil

Local pusher recommends Castrol TAF-X fully synthetic 75W-90 (41-C4001960) This should be ok?

For rear differential Haynes manual specifies API GL-5 SAE 90 hypoid gear oil

Local pusher recommends Castrol SAF-XJ fully synthetic 75W-140 (41-C4001705). Description for the product says it's API GL 5 rated. Does SAE 90 mean 90W-90? Wouldn't that mean 75W140 is way out of spec? And how do I know if this is the mentioned hypoid oil?

Another shop here sells the Comma products which I have seen mentioned on this forum. Would Comma Hypoid EP90 (COM-H901L) be the best choice? Description says it's EP GL5 rated.

For transfer case lubricant Haynes manual specifies API GL-5 SAE 90 or 85W-90 hypoid gear oil

Local pusher again recommends Trans Castrol TAF-X fully synthetic 75W-90 (41-C4001960). Again it's out of spec according to Haynes manual, and the Castrol website itself doesn't list any oil for transfer case on my car...

From the Comma brand there's the aldready mentioned Hypoid EP90 (COM-H901L), but nothing in 85W90.

What do you guys (*Cough* Anchorman) think?

[anchorman]

I have got a cough at the moment yes!

I think you have not downloaded the SDS for your vehicle from the pinned section;

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109888

Your local guy's gearbox oil is Ok but not the rear diff oil. For that you can use the 85W/90 for the rear diff and the transfer box.

[Sensei]

For that you can use the 85W/90 for the rear diff and the transfer box.

I haven't found any 85W-90 oil. Should I use the Comma Hypoid EP90 insted for both transfer case and rear diff?

I had a look in a couple of stores this evening and they dont seem to have everyting they list online either so I'm not sure I'll even find the Comma product.

If not I guess I'll just have to buy the 2 liters needed from local Toyota dealer. At least they should be able to sell me the right juice....

[anchorman]

As long as it is GL5 rated it will be fine

[bothwell_buyer]

Opie Oils support the TOC and offer a wide range of oil and advice. And they arrange to deliver so takes the hassle away from you searching.

[anchorman]

To Norway?

[Sensei]

To Norway?

With the bureaucracy over here my RAV will be in car heaven long before the oil clears the customs!

Anyways, I bought the oils today.

Manual transmission: Castrol Manual TAF-X (SAE 75W-90 API GL4)

Transfer case and rear differential: Castrol Differential EPX (SAE 80W-90 API GL5)

Those are all within the specs, arent they?

I also got som Delphi Dot 5.1 brake/clutch fluid. That'll work, right? I dont seem to find any info on how much fluid I need. I only got 1L, but something tells me I'll need more. Any idea?

[anchorman]

That all looks OK although I can't see the spec of the gearbox oil. Be careful with fully synthetic oil because you might find it uses (burns) some so check it every week for a few weeks. You might be better with semi-synthetic as it is cheaper and usually comes in 5 litre tubs. You know you need 5.9 litres - right?

The DOT 5.1 brake fluid is compatible with DOT 3 so that is OK and 1 litre should be enough. All 4 wheels are on a seperate channel so start with the drivers side front and then pump enough out to purge the reservoir (you will see it change colour) then the other 3 wheels will only take a small amount. Don't let air into the system or it will be a :censor: to get it out. It will take about 30-40% to do the first wheel but only the same again for the other 3 as you only have to purge the pipe and caliper. With the remainder, send a few pumps through the clutch slave cylinder which is on the same reservoir and will stop it from cross contaminating the new stuff you have just added for the brakes.

[Sensei]

I can't see the spec of the gearbox oil.

It says "SAE 75W-90 API GL4" on the back.

Be careful with fully synthetic oil because you might find it uses (burns) some so check it every week for a few weeks. You might be better with semi-synthetic as it is cheaper and usually comes in 5 litre tubs.

Are you referring to engine oil or gearbox?

You know you need 5.9 litres - right?

Yes, I have a half full tub left from last time.

With the remainder, send a few pumps through the clutch slave cylinder which is on the same reservoir and will stop it from cross contaminating the new stuff you have just added for the brakes.

Should I bleed the clutch between first and second brake channel or is that of no consequence? To bleed the clutch I'll just have to open the bleed valve on the cylinder and bleed it like the brakes, just depressing the clutch pedal instead? Are there any special tools required when doing the bleeding procedure?

[anchorman]

Gear oil is OK.

Engine oil is what might burn quicker!

Bleed the clutch last if you have enough left over (try to make sure you do!)

[Sensei]

Engine oil is what might burn quicker!

Thanks for all the tips! I haven't noticed any loss of oil on this car yet. Lets just hope it stays that way.

[anchorman]

4.2s are usualyy quite good for not using oil. It is really good if it doesn't use any between oil changes.

[peevee]

Grateful if some clarification can be given re manual gearbox oil and transfer case oil. I don't know if a 4.2 is the same as a 4.1 but I'm led to believe on a 4.1 there is one filler for both g/box oil and transfer case oil but two drains i.e. one for each.

If this is so, I do not understand how there can be two different oils required because logically (my logic anyway) both the g/box and transfer case are sharing the same oil?

Many thanks

Peter

[anchorman]

They have seperate oil and should be checked as detailed here;

MAN TRANS SERVICE.pdf

[peevee]

Thanks Anchorman

You can see why I'm confused ! Here's a reply from another knowledgeable gentleman:-

Quote 'Same oil for a manual gearbox and transfer box...........2 drain plugs one filler plug (through the gearbox)

I had to do a bit of research as well....the Haynes manual and others was pretty unclear about the whole thing and WRONG about the transfer casing using different oil...but as i said in the earlier post i refilled through the gearbox filler with the transfer casing plug removed...the oil started to come out after a couple of litres which confirmed the g/box+transfer casing/box did indeed share the same oil.....which makes it impossible to use 2 different oil grades as they would mix'

[anchorman]

Well its the same type of oil as far as my info goes so as long as your source is sure then you can fill both units through the same hole. That assumes that both filler plugs are on the same level and that you add the collective capacity. You will just have to check that the right amount comes out (one may not drain the other fully even if it can overflow from one unit to the next) and the right amount has gone back in.