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Fitted A Sub To My Go!


Wh1teLeopard
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To say I was disappointed to find out the new Aygos only have Speakers up front was a bit of an understatement! And I've always thought the Aygos lacked in mid-range and bass (but I'm not complaining for the price). I got a quote for an official Toyota Sub-woofer but couldn't justify the £270+ to get one :( not when we struggle to pay the rent!

So I figured I'd use the 12" sub-woofer and amp I had sitting around gathering dust in the garage, waiting for a mouse to chew through the cone.

First things first I had to break down the old sub box as it was far too large to fit in the Aygo.

Ideally I wanted to place the sub under the passenger seat, but despite it being very narrow for its size it just wouldn't fit. So I opted to place it in the boot instead, and make it removable should I need the extra space.

Now it's important to say I'm not completely ignorant to building sound systems, I used to build 'sound-off' competition cars, and I wasn't looking for the same 160+ DB in the Aygo, just something to fill the gap. So with the massively undersized box needed I wasn't expecting or wanting masses of bass! I was also aware from the start that it would still lack mid-range, but I may get around to addressing that some day, need a wiring diagram first though as I only have input from the left 'rear' side, so the wirings got myself and my dad stumped.

So plan was -

* Make a template for the drivers seat floor plan

* Make a mount for the amp

* Make an undersized box for the boot

* Fit all the wiring

Step 1.

Make a template

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Step 2.

Transfer template on to random bit of wood I found in the garage (also make sure the amp will fit between the rails)

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Step 3.

Cut out the amp stand, and make some nifty little legs to raise the amp up to allow the wires to neatly run underneath.

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Step 4.

Add carpet

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And make sure the amp still fits

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Step 5.

Pretty much repeat with the sub-woofer and make your box

Step 6.

Wiring - this is the most painful stage, even if you did almost saw your hand off in the previous steps...

We ran the power cable through the recommended grommet, and ground the amp on the bolts for the gear shift. We used the fitting instructions for the official sub & amp to remove the required panels. The speaker cable to the sub ran behind the rear quarter panel and into the boot.

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The hardest were the signal wires, firstly the input for right and left audio, and the remote signal switch to turn the amp on.

We spent a long time testing each speaker wire on the output from the stereo, and each and every other wire to find a switch. We only found a switch on the wiring to the sat nav, and couldn't get our heads around the speaker wires. There's 6 Speakers and 6 wires, 2 purple, 2 black and 2 white (if I remember right), and no signal was produced connecting the meter black-white. However there was a reading black to black, and white to white. The reading was 8ohms or there abouts which is enough for 2 Speakers, so I dunno, it must be set up to feed 2 speakers... but how it fades left to right and front to back is beyond me right now lol (Anyone who has a wiring diagram who wants to enlighten us, we'd appreciate it).

Anyway, using a wiring adapter to convert the speaker inputs to phono we finally got a working connection and took the signal switch from the sat nav input.

I also fitted a remote switch to control the sub from the drivers seat (useful if you're fed up of the bass on a long journey).

The amp is now fitted under the drivers seat

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(The wires you see are the phono and remote cables - and I appreciate they are kickable, but's highly rare I get anyone sitting behind the drivers seat, and if we do it's usually me anyway)

The shape of the amp stand holds it nicely in place:

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And I fitted the remote switch using double sided tape to avoid any damage to the panels (My intention all along was to keep the car as original as possible, in the sense all of this can be removed without a trace)

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Last step was to fit a grill to the sub to protect it from my first aid kit flying around

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And it doesn't take up too much space either

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I'm really pleased with the end result, although I could turn the sub up A LOT and make the doors rattle, I'd rather just keep it low, just to fill the gap. It's much more powerful than it needs to be, but it handles the low notes very nicely.

All I'm missing now is some mid-range, I might eventually get around to fitting another amp and some 6x9's to deal with that, but I need a wiring diagram first as I only have input from the 'rear' left speaker. :wacko:

Anyway, hope you like

:thumbsup:

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Tasty install :thumbsup:

Brings back memories of weekends of doing my installs :lol:

Bing

:thumbsup:

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Thank you :)

I forgot to say to anyone thinking of doing the same to be mindful of the alternator, we worked out at max power the amp should draw 60amps but the alternator on our petrol go is only rated to 70amp. Also when turning the amp up the revs do drop. It's just something to consider as destroying your alternator this way would void your warranty :!Removed!:

We just tested ours and it dropped 0.03v with headlights on and stereo running.

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I forgot to say to anyone thinking of doing the same to be mindful of the alternator, we worked out at max power the amp should draw 60amps but the alternator on our petrol go is only rated to 70amp. Also when turning the amp up the revs do drop. It's just something to consider as destroying your alternator this way would void your warranty :!Removed!:

We just tested ours and it dropped 0.03v with headlights on and stereo running.

How did you get this reading then, did you use a clamp meter with a amp setting?

The last time i tested my amp current, it was drawing an average of about 6amps mid-level volume on the H/U with average amount of bass.

The most the amp meter showed was at 35amps, full volume with silly amounts of bass.

It won't ruin the alternator as such, just means that it will take longer to fully charge the Battery, because your audio amp is drawing all the power away, so its the Battery your killing really. :lol:

Bing

:thumbsup:

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I was very disappointed that all six speakers are in the front of the car. Tempted to place two speakers in the rear parcel shelf :-)

If you want to make your car look like a boy-racer look, go right on ahead :eek:

But remember when you come to sell your car, and you want to take the Speakers out, just what it will look like for the next person, from what i remember, parcel shelves aren't cheap.

Either make your own one out of MDF, or change the speaker for better quality and put a sub in the boot to help it

Bing

:thumbsup:

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How did you get this reading then, did you use a clamp meter with a amp setting?

The last time i tested my amp current, it was drawing an average of about 6amps mid-level volume on the H/U with average amount of bass.

The most the amp meter showed was at 35amps, full volume with silly amounts of bass.

It won't ruin the alternator as such, just means that it will take longer to fully charge the battery, because your audio amp is drawing all the power away, so its the battery your killing really. :lol:

Bing

:thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice, we just worked out how much it should draw at maximum output by doing some maths on the max rating. Then put a multi-meter across the Battery terminals to see what volts it was being charged at. I'm new to playing with the new coil ignition cars, I'm used to distributors and ht leads, so I'm a little worried about upsetting that. However I can't see one little sub doing too much harm (famous last words hehe)

(Someone is going to tell me now that the aygos do have distributors lol)

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Thanks for the advice, we just worked out how much it should draw at maximum output by doing some maths on the max rating. Then put a multi-meter across the battery terminals to see what volts it was being charged at.

Interesting way of getting a reading, i'd tried that sort of way before, but not been able to get a good enough reading, hence why i said use a clamp meter, like this

n54fu.jpg

(Pic has a link)

All you do then, is clamp the meter onto the power cable to the amp, and play some music, and should give you an idea of just how much amps its drawing. It may not be completely accurate, but will give you some idea of just how much its using.

Bing

:thumbsup:

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Thanks for the advice, we just worked out how much it should draw at maximum output by doing some maths on the max rating. Then put a multi-meter across the battery terminals to see what volts it was being charged at.

Interesting way of getting a reading, i'd tried that sort of way before, but not been able to get a good enough reading, hence why i said use a clamp meter, like this

n54fu.jpg

(Pic has a link)

All you do then, is clamp the meter onto the power cable to the amp, and play some music, and should give you an idea of just how much amps its drawing. It may not be completely accurate, but will give you some idea of just how much its using.

Bing

:thumbsup:

I'll look into that thank you :)

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I agree that it is a disappointment that all six Speakers are in the front of the car.

How anyone can say that Speakers in the rear parcel shelf look "boy racer-ish" and then suggest the fitting of a chav bin in their boot is beyond me!

The Aygo's luggage boot is compact enough without further intruding into it with one of those ghastly contraptions. One of the main reasons the factory sub-woofer solution is designed to fit under the seat.

I have discovered that it is possible to fit Speakers into the rear door cards. You can then buy matching grey covers from Toyota that match the front door speakers. They are then indistinguishable from factory fit. I am not a great music person (I mainly listen to audio books on longer journeys, and the radio on shorter ones); but my children (both teenagers) are. This is probably the route I will go, if at all.

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I agree that it is a disappointment that all six speakers are in the front of the car.

To me it's not. I have a 2006 Aygo 5dr, with the older soundpack. This means I have Speakers in the rear doors in the pockets.

But I HATE having music from the rear, so I've faded my system to the front. The rears are only used as rear fill,

so rear passengers still get accurate music: the Speakers only add back whats dampened by the front seats.

music should come from the front, that is the only way to get proper staging.

If you go to a concert you FACE the artist, you DO NOT turn your back to the podium!

How anyone can say that speakers in the rear parcel shelf look "boy racer-ish"

and then suggest the fitting of a chav bin in their boot is beyond me!

I don;t want to pass judgement on this, but calling a sub-configuration "chavvy" and defending

bling-bling Speakers in the parcel shelf as not being the samen is a bit contradictionary to me...

I want proper music in my car. So I fitted a proper head unit with filtering and a small subwoofer

under the front passenger seat. There wasn't even need to replace the OEM speakers: they're fine

as long as you have a stereo that can properly drive them. The OEM radio can't...

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then suggest the fitting of a chav bin in their boot is beyond me!

If anyone can spot my chav bin, please feel free to let me know :yes:

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I know what you mean, but i've been on the audio scene for far too many years, and i've had my fair share of installs, but this is by far my most discreet/stealth install i've ever done.

Nothing more off putting than having a whopping sub box taking up the whole boot, my install has the best of both, practical space and a nice install.

Bing

:thumbsup:

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  • 4 years later...

Hello,

Please can someone tell me what is the recommended grommet to come through from the Battery in to the car with the power cable as I am planning to install a Subwoofer on my RHD Aygo Ice 62 plate.

I would also like to see some pictures or a guide to do this if possible.

I have found the guide from Toyota to install the multi changer and subwoofer but that does not show or explain the correct route.

Any help with thus would be most appreciated.

Thanks

David

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  • 1 year later...

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