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Build Thread


msprince
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Had my car ages now and done a few mods so here is a build thread.

Car as i brought it - Standard.

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Then came my private no plate and headlight eyebrows.

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Then my custom made induction kit.

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Double din headunit and parrot kit.

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Rubbed down and painted gear knob.

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Painted VVTLI letters on engine bay.

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17" alloy wheels and lowered 35mm.

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Raised the rear of the bonnet.

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New cat-back system.

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General pics.

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I will get videos up of the new the exhaust soon.

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  • msprince

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Is it bad that I sort of like the eyebrows :!Removed!:

No nothing wrong with that, infact more people should jump on the band wagon lmao.

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Very nice mods so far mate :thumbsup:

Except the eyebrows are not my thing.

And uhm, sorry I ask, but isn't your exhaust tip hanging a little too much to the middle of the car? ;)

Grtz

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Nice work so far mate, she was looking pretty cool when I last saw her at JAE :thumbsup:

I am personally not a fan of eye brows as they look stuck on (because they are :lol: ) but I'm glad that you're happy with them :yes:

KP

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Yeah the exhaust hangs more into the centre, i didnt realy like the look of where the stock exhaust is.

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I had a really productive day.

I cut my shifter down to reduce throw distance, it has worked.

First i removed the centre console out the car and removed the gear stick and housing.

In each corner there are rubber bushes.

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Here they are out.

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Here is the shaft before i cut it.

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And how much i cut off.

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And the final result.

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I also adjust the handbrake while the centre console was out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did you re thread the top of the gear stick in the end?

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Without wanting to mess up your thread, by cutting only the top of the gear stick you only achieve to make the gear changes more difficult. The speed of the gear change has not been altered at all.

The only "plus" of this mod is that the stick looks better as it is shorter.

Take a look at the TTE short shift stick that I have installed in comparison with the OEM one. Notice that the stick is shorter on the top but longer on the bottom (pic1).

Also, if you want to improve the "wavy" feeling of the tower that holds the stick, you need to replace also the rubber base bushings with aluminum ones (pic2).

tte1-1.jpg

tte2.jpg

All above are said in an entirely friendly way. I do not want to spoil your enthusiasm. Keep up the mods and good work.

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Fair point on the tte shifter, but the twm short shifter is only shorter or the top compared to the standard shifter. Well that's how it looks so I could work.

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It seems to me that also the twm shifter is, at least noticeably, longer on the bottom.

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By about 1mm, gear changes are not "more difficult" but more precise with less throw.

There is no wobble in mine as i took out the rubber bushings and bolted the gear selector bracket to the floor.

I havent re-threaded the gear stick yet but i do have my gear knob attachted securly for now.

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thats not true madvinegar, shortening the shifter does shorten the throw. not as much though.

sshifter.png

see, by shortening the shifter 50% your shortening the throw 50%

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It's not so simple mate. In order to achieve a shorter "throw" you must reduce the angle of throw!

By just cutting the top of the stick, you do not change the angle of throw. You just make the gear changes more difficult.

In order to achieve to reduce the angle of throw and thus achieve an actual shortening of the throw (and faster throw), the bottom of the stick must be extended and the stable part of the throw (i.e. the metal ball in the middle) to be displaced to a higher point.

I have prepared a rough sketch to explain...

short.jpg

The 1st stick is the OEM one. The 2nd stick is the one that you just cut the top. The 3rd stick is a proper short shifter.

As you have seen, in the 1st and 2nd stick the angle of throw remains exactly the same (30 degrees). In the 3rd stick the angle of throw has been reduced to 20 degrees.

The displacement of the metal ball is done by replacing the rubber base bushings with the aluminum ones. So their role is twofold. To stiffen the tower and to increase the height of it.

I am saying all above because I think it's not proper to advertise that by cutting off 50% of your stick, you achieve 50% reduction in throw... If only it was so simple...

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your all right lol both ways will work. Shortening the shaft reduces the throw as there is less length to travel throuh and moving the ball wil change the fulcrum point reducing the throw that way. You just may need a weighted knob if you cut it down as you have less leverage force. The throw wil reduce more with a proper short shift but they cost and cutting it dont lol

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ok maybe not 50% for 50% lol slight exageration. just measure the distance across the top of your first two drawings, the path is reduced quite a bit.

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ok maybe not 50% for 50% lol slight exageration. just measure the distance across the top of your first two drawings, the path is reduced quite a bit.

Yes, ok... I understood your exaggeration.

I just wanted to make clear that the important factor in this case is the angle of throw.

In any case, it is up to you or b1gpk etc, what you do with your car which is well respected.

I just expressed my opinion.

Hope you have the results you've expected and keep up the good work.

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I have wrapped tape round the shaft and pressed the gear knob, its not coming off anytime soon.

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ahh i see! good idea. im gonna do it tomorrow then, good excuse for a weighted gear knob haha

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