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D4D 1Cd-Ftv Engine Vibration At 1400Rpm

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Hi i have a 2.0 d4d corolla verso with a vibration at 1400rpm . i have changed the clutch and DMF which was gone /broken .just wondering has anyone come across this before.this engine is in rav 4 01 to 05 and avensis 01 to 05 ,thanks ois

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I haven't noticed this before. I did have an 05 Rav4 D4D so I know the engine.

You need to be a lot more specific and I will ask questions which you should be able to answer to be able to investigate further.

I know you indicate your car is a Manual but I have included Automatic in case others have issues.

Manual version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm when the car is stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch not depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car moving in first gear?

Repeat the above and answer for each gear setting.

Automatic version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Park?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Neutral?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Drive with the car held stationary by the foot brake?

Next (Manual and Automatic):

If the vibration occurs whilst the car is stationary in any of the above circumstances get a helper and try to pinpoint exactly where the vibration is coming from. This can be done by touch or by using a longer metal rod (screwdriver or similar). Be aware not to stand in front of the car to test for vibration when it is being held on the foot brake. Check only from the sides.

If the vibration occurs only when the vehicle is in gear and travelling. Get a passenger to sit in the front and travel to the point where the vibration occurs and get them to have a good feel around the car in the area they are sitting in to try and determine the area of most vibration. Repeat this so that the passenger can sit in the back and check around the back also.

By doing the above you should be able to either say where the vibration is coming from or rule out where it is not coming from. Remember that vibration felt may not be anywhere near the source of the problem. A good example is that of residue on the brake discs can make the steering wobble when breaking. You feel the movement at the steering wheel but it is actually transmitted from the discs 1/4 of the cars distance away from where you feel it.

If it is the engine that is vibrating this will be noticed when stationary, if it is anything with the drive train then as this is connected to the engine it may be more apparent at the engine due to the engine mounts allowing more movement at that point.

It could also be associated with steering, suspension or even wheel balance (but only if it occurs at one particular gear at 1400rpm for the it to be balance).

It May be that the engine is causing resonance with another component of itself or the drive train at 1400rpm.

All engines have a vibration range and it is specific to that engine. It may be that yours has its vibration peak at 1400rpm. Check your engine mounts for tightness, but also check the rubbers for cracks or tearing and test the "sponginess" of the rubbers on each mount. If they have become to soft then any vibrations will be accentuated. The easiest way to do this is give each one a "poke" with a rounded ended rod (so as not to damage the rubber) with the rod held as tightly as possible between your Thumb and Index finger only, until it starts to slip between your grasp. You should be able to tell if one of the mounting rubbers has failed by the amount of give in the rubber before the rod slips in your grip each time. If your have had either a fuel or Oil leak on an engine mount, this can very quickly cause the rubber to degrade and become spongy. This will not be apparent to look at and you have to test for it.I haven't noticed this before. I did have an 05 Rav4 D4D so I know the engine.

You need to be a lot more specific and I will ask questions which you should be able to answer to be able to investigate further.

I know you indicate your car is a Manual but I have included Automatic in case others have issues.

Manual version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm when the car is stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch not depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car moving in first gear?

Repeat the above and answer for each gear setting.

Automatic version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Park?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Neutral?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Drive with the car held stationary by the foot brake?

Next (Manual and Automatic):

If the vibration occurs whilst the car is stationary in any of the above circumstances get a helper and try to pinpoint exactly where the vibration is coming from. This can be done by touch or by using a longer metal rod (screwdriver or similar). Be aware not to stand in front of the car to test for vibration when it is being held on the foot brake. Check only from the sides.

If the vibration occurs only when the vehicle is in gear and travelling. Get a passenger to sit in the front and travel to the point where the vibration occurs and get them to have a good feel around the car in the area they are sitting in to try and determine the area of most vibration. Repeat this so that the passenger can sit in the back and check around the back also.

By doing the above you should be able to either say where the vibration is coming from or rule out where it is not coming from. Remember that vibration felt may not be anywhere near the source of the problem. A good example is that of residue on the brake discs can make the steering wobble when breaking. You feel the movement at the steering wheel but it is actually transmitted from the discs 1/4 of the cars distance away from where you feel it.

If it is the engine that is vibrating this will be noticed when stationary, if it is anything with the drive train then as this is connected to the engine it may be more apparent at the engine due to the engine mounts allowing more movement at that point.

It could also be associated with steering, suspension or even wheel balance (but only if it occurs at one particular gear at 1400rpm for the it to be balance).

It May be that the engine is causing resonance with another component of itself or the drive train at 1400rpm.

All engines have a vibration range and it is specific to that engine. It may be that yours has its vibration peak at 1400rpm. Check your engine mounts for tightness, but also check the rubbers for cracks or tearing and test the "sponginess" of the rubbers on each mount. If they have become to soft then any vibrations will be accentuated. The easiest way to do this is give each one a "poke" with a rounded ended rod (so as not to damage the rubber) with the rod held as tightly as possible between your Thumb and Index finger only, until it starts to slip between your grasp. You should be able to tell if one of the mounting rubbers has failed by the amount of give in the rubber before the rod slips in your grip each time. If your have had either a fuel or Oil leak on an engine mount, this can very quickly cause the rubber to degrade and become spongy. This will not be apparent to look at and you have to test for it.I haven't noticed this before. I did have an 05 Rav4 D4D so I know the engine.

You need to be a lot more specific and I will ask questions which you should be able to answer to be able to investigate further.

I know you indicate your car is a Manual but I have included Automatic in case others have issues.

Manual version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm when the car is stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch not depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car moving in first gear?

Repeat the above and answer for each gear setting.

Automatic version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Park?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Neutral?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Drive with the car held stationary by the foot brake?

Next (Manual and Automatic):

If the vibration occurs whilst the car is stationary in any of the above circumstances get a helper and try to pinpoint exactly where the vibration is coming from. This can be done by touch or by using a longer metal rod (screwdriver or similar). Be aware not to stand in front of the car to test for vibration when it is being held on the foot brake. Check only from the sides.

If the vibration occurs only when the vehicle is in gear and travelling. Get a passenger to sit in the front and travel to the point where the vibration occurs and get them to have a good feel around the car in the area they are sitting in to try and determine the area of most vibration. Repeat this so that the passenger can sit in the back and check around the back also.

By doing the above you should be able to either say where the vibration is coming from or rule out where it is not coming from. Remember that vibration felt may not be anywhere near the source of the problem. A good example is that of residue on the brake discs can make the steering wobble when breaking. You feel the movement at the steering wheel but it is actually transmitted from the discs 1/4 of the cars distance away from where you feel it.

If it is the engine that is vibrating this will be noticed when stationary, if it is anything with the drive train then as this is connected to the engine it may be more apparent at the engine due to the engine mounts allowing more movement at that point.

It could also be associated with steering, suspension or even wheel balance (but only if it occurs at one particular gear at 1400rpm for the it to be balance).

It May be that the engine is causing resonance with another component of itself or the drive train at 1400rpm.

All engines have a vibration range and it is specific to that engine. It may be that yours has its vibration peak at 1400rpm. Check your engine mounts for tightness, but also check the rubbers for cracks or tearing and test the "sponginess" of the rubbers on each mount. If they have become to soft then any vibrations will be accentuated. The easiest way to do this is give each one a "poke" with a rounded ended rod (so as not to damage the rubber) with the rod held as tightly as possible between your Thumb and Index finger only, until it starts to slip between your grasp. You should be able to tell if one of the mounting rubbers has failed by the amount of give in the rubber before the rod slips in your grip each time. If your have had either a fuel or Oil leak on an engine mount, this can very quickly cause the rubber to degrade and become spongy. This will not be apparent to look at and you have to test for it.I haven't noticed this before. I did have an 05 Rav4 D4D so I know the engine.

You need to be a lot more specific and I will ask questions which you should be able to answer to be able to investigate further.

I know you indicate your car is a Manual but I have included Automatic in case others have issues.

Manual version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm when the car is stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch not depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car stationary and the gears at neutral with the clutch depressed?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm with the car moving in first gear?

Repeat the above and answer for each gear setting.

Automatic version:

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Park?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Neutral?

Does this vibration occur at 1400rpm in Drive with the car held stationary by the foot brake?

Next (Manual and Automatic):

If the vibration occurs whilst the car is stationary in any of the above circumstances get a helper and try to pinpoint exactly where the vibration is coming from. This can be done by touch or by using a longer metal rod (screwdriver or similar). Be aware not to stand in front of the car to test for vibration when it is being held on the foot brake. Check only from the sides.

If the vibration occurs only when the vehicle is in gear and travelling. Get a passenger to sit in the front and travel to the point where the vibration occurs and get them to have a good feel around the car in the area they are sitting in to try and determine the area of most vibration. Repeat this so that the passenger can sit in the back and check around the back also.

By doing the above you should be able to either say where the vibration is coming from or rule out where it is not coming from. Remember that vibration felt may not be anywhere near the source of the problem. A good example is that of residue on the brake discs can make the steering wobble when breaking. You feel the movement at the steering wheel but it is actually transmitted from the discs 1/4 of the cars distance away from where you feel it.

If it is the engine that is vibrating this will be noticed when stationary, if it is anything with the drive train then as this is connected to the engine it may be more apparent at the engine due to the engine mounts allowing more movement at that point.

It could also be associated with steering, suspension or even wheel balance (but only if it occurs at one particular gear at 1400rpm for the it to be balance).

It May be that the engine is causing resonance with another component of itself or the drive train at 1400rpm.

All engines have a vibration range and it is specific to that engine. It may be that yours has its vibration peak at 1400rpm. Check your engine mounts for tightness, but also check the rubbers for cracks or tearing and test the "sponginess" of the rubbers on each mount. If they have become to soft then any vibrations will be accentuated. The easiest way to do this is give each one a "poke" with a rounded ended rod (so as not to damage the rubber) with the rod held as tightly as possible between your Thumb and Index finger only, until it starts to slip between your grasp. You should be able to tell if one of the mounting rubbers has failed by the amount of give in the rubber before the rod slips in your grip each time. If your have had either a fuel or Oil leak on an engine mount, this can very quickly cause the rubber to degrade and become spongy. This will not be apparent to look at and you have to test for it.

The more you can check yourself and the more information you can provide after checking. Give people a much better chance to help you diagnose the problem, or at least rule out what it definately isn't.

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Hi ,thanks a milion for such a detailed reponse. the vibration happens when car is stationary with clutch pedel pressed or not ,it also can be got on very light trottle in 5th gear but can be stopped by flooring the throttle other wise the car drives well with good power and mpg.i have changed the diesel filter and air filter.i have gone to a toyota dealer for dia plug in ,he says it could be injector no2 has high reading +2.0 but wants to remove all 4 for test in a diesel shop.with 65k on the clock with full dealer service history this would come as a shock to me as my last car a picnic 2.2 diesel had 185k on it and it never gave any injector problems or any as far as that goes .do not seen to build them like they did when they where all built in japan regards ois

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Hi i have a 2.0 d4d corolla verso with a vibration at 1400rpm . i have changed the clutch and DMF which was gone /broken .just wondering has anyone come across this before.this engine is in rav 4 01 to 05 and avensis 01 to 05 ,thanks ois

Hi

After I changed the clutch the engine still had the vibration. Then we got a car into our garage that had a turbo failure due to lack of lubrication. The reason for that is..... First it starts to leak exhaust gases passed the injector wich is inside the engine. These gases are hot and burns the Oil. Deposits from this ends up in the Oil sump and clogges up the Oil screen. The first thing to break down due to no lubrication is the turbo. To find out if there is leakage passed the injector you can do this by checking injector live data (you will see that the injector that leaks will be compensated with more fuel), or by opening the Oil filler cap with the engine running. If there is leakage you will hear a special sound each time compressed leaks outOn my own car one injector leaked. I change the injector because it was damaged as well. I removed the oilsump and checked the Oil screen and there was some deposits starting to build up on the screen. Now I check the Oil screen each time I change Oil. After I did this the vibrations stop, but now they are comming back. When I change the injector I also cleaned the EGR-valve. I think that the EGR-valve is the problem here. Clean/change the EGR-valve and see if that helps.

Viper 66

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Hi ,thanks a milion for such a detailed reponse. the vibration happens when car is stationary with clutch pedel pressed or not ,it also can be got on very light trottle in 5th gear but can be stopped by flooring the throttle other wise the car drives well with good power and mpg.i have changed the diesel filter and air filter.i have gone to a toyota dealer for dia plug in ,he says it could be injector no2 has high reading +2.0 but wants to remove all 4 for test in a diesel shop.with 65k on the clock with full dealer service history this would come as a shock to me as my last car a picnic 2.2 diesel had 185k on it and it never gave any injector problems or any as far as that goes .do not seen to build them like they did when they where all built in japan regards ois

Hi again

Thought worst case scenario here. If the engine had run a period with bad lubrication the vibration can come from worn crankshaft bearings. Hope thats not the reason.

Viper 66

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the vibration happens when car is stationary with clutch pedal pressed or not

This speaks a thousand words.

The fault is on your engine and not the drive-train.

If you have passed dirty/contaminated fuel at any time during the cars life you can expect injector trouble. There is a fine mesh strainer after the fuel filter and this is fitted at or in the fuel injection pump to protect its internal workings. However this mesh is much greater than the filtration properties of the Fuel filter.

It is highly likely that your injectors need checking and the best way to do this is have them removed and set up on a test machine (about 1.5 to 2 hours labour in a garage) which will show spray pattern at the injection point and also the pressure at which the injection point occurs. It used to be a very common service item on older vehicle to have the injectors tested as fuel used to be " not as clean as it is today".

An injector that has its spray pattern disrupted or blocked by even the slightest spec of dirt, will cause a loss of power on that particular cylinder.

It is possible that the problems you are having are caused by this as the engine will not be running evenly with an injector fault. This may not be the whole issue but it will aggravate the problem and needs addressing.

If you have run your car to empty on near empty, you are asking for problems as any water in any contaminated fuel that you may have ever had will help any particles to floc "group up" together and settle at the bottom of your tank and this can be picked up by the fuel pump when near empty while in motion. If your fuel filter was in any way compromised this could pass to the injectors. Also if your fuel filter has not been changed at regular service intervals, then it may have become almost blocked and the filtration properties may have been compromised as the increased back pressure against the filter may cause the material to open up slightly relieving the pressure and allowing contamination through.

Just as a cheaper option and well worth trying before you do anything else, overdose your engine with a good fuel system flush additive first as these are designed to remove carbon deposits and certain types of contamination from injectors.

Another thing you can do is get a long screwdriver and set the engine to 1400rpm and go over various points of the engine touching the point of the screwdriver to the engine and resting your ear on the end of the handle. this will allow your to determine by vibration and sound, which area of the engine is most affected by the vibration. Remember to keep your fingers away from any moving parts, have no loose clothing or long hair anywhere near moving parts while leaning over the running engine (button everything up, remove your tie or anything else like necklaces and toggles and tuck your hair, if you have any under a cap).

Good luck and get back to this post once you have run the fuel system flush through.

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hi, thanks for reponse, i forgot to say i did clean the EGR valve which was in a bad way and also removed the shutter housing which lets you see into the inlet manifold which is also coverd in black tar like stuff.i orderd injector gasets/washers from toyota dealer which are now made from zinc instead of copper.my next move is to replaced the gasets/washers and remove and clean inlet manifold, it is also due Oil change so i will kept an eye out for any metal chips in Oil ,if crankshaft bearings are failing .when you say Oil screen had deposits would there be enough to cause Oil starvation ,would this not put on the Oil low pressure warning light on,i was also told the problem could the airfow meter they are €200 ,the 4 washers for the injectors are €20 so i am starting at small money first,ho by the way i changed my DMF to a solid flywheel are gear changes are much slicker now thanks again for your reponse kind regards ois

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hi ,thanks for reply lupidog ,i have gone down the diesel teatment and tank cleaning road before with no joy and i am using Shell diesel from relieable source (forgot to say this as head is gone with this problem)put i think it is starting to look like injectors but i have no smoke blue ,black or white at any engine condition hard acelleration etc and i have no engine codes ,this is a puzzle which looks like is going to cost a lot of €€€€€€€€€€€ to solve kind regards ois

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hi ,thanks for reply lupidog ,i have gone down the diesel teatment and tank cleaning road before with no joy and i am using shell diesel from relieable source (forgot to say this as head is gone with this problem)put i think it is starting to look like injectors but i have no smoke blue ,black or white at any engine condition hard acelleration etc and i have no engine codes ,this is a puzzle which looks like is going to cost a lot of €€€€€€€€€€€ to solve kind regards ois

hello mate

all engine faults are started from poor injection (over fueling) -- as the result your EGR was blocked.

beside of that i can imagine condition of your turbo. the first thing to do is check with all four injectors.

Good luck/Igor

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i forgot to say i did clean the EGR valve which was in a bad way

The EGR vale recirculates a small amount of exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold. If the EGR is blocked with carbon deposits then, this has also passed to your intake manifold.

the inlet manifold which is also covered in black tar like stuff

If it is a light covering then this may be ok. If it is a quite heavy deposit of Oily Carbon. Then this is blowing back from the engine. Something I probably should have picked up on earlier is to get your cylinder compression and valve timing tested. Blow back into the inlet manifold is a symptom of either a small inlet valve leak cause either by a valve not seating correctly, valve seat damage or slightly incorrect valve timing, incorrect injection pump timing or (and here we point our finger at an injector again).... One of the injectors is opening to early due to partial injector failure. Blowback is also caused by over compression of one or more cylinders.

These deposits may also be comming from the Turbo (if one is fitted). You could be experiencing all of your problems from a faulty Turbo.

when you say oil screen had deposits would there be enough to cause oil starvation

I meant the strainer screen which is fitted on the fuel system and not the Oil system.

You say you have no smoke. This is a good sign.

If you were burning Oil you would normally show blue smoke, I say normally, as it may be such a minimal amount that your emission system is dealing with it.

If you have an incorrect combustion set-up, fuel system or air system or if you overload the engine you may show black smoke. The emission system again may be removing most traces.

Like I said earlier, check the cylinder compression and while you have the injectors out have a good look at the nozzles, only use a brass wire and diesel to clean away any deposits from the nozzles. You used to be able to get an injector cleaning set for Motor Stores which would include various size wire and a holder so that you could also clean the nozzle holes by poking a small wire into them. Don't try and use any wire that breaks easily or you may block them yourself.

Always check the easy and cheap things first before spending money.

When things start to look as if they are going to get expensive, take professional advice (that's not here but in a garage that can see and check the car) and consider that if you may well spend more than having a replacment or reconditioned engine fitted, then you may well have to consider this as an option.

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Hi, I have a similar problema with a toyota corolla 2.0 d4d 66KW. I think the resonance you are hearing at 1400 rpm is coming from the air filter chamber. The plastic tube that feeds air into it has some spongy foam at the tip which enters the air filter chamber. however in my car this foam has all but gone. I still have not replaced it, but when I do i will let know if this has solved the problem.

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The topic is 6.5 years old - presumably the OP has found a solution in that time.

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