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Auris Query


Redarse
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I would like to ask if anyone else has encountered the problem I had at

the weekend, on saturday i moved my 1.33 Auris TR about 10 yards to clean

it, as i had done before many times, after cleaning I moved it ten yards

to where I park it, on sunday I went to start it to go out and it wouldnt,

later in the day i tried once more and still nothing, I phoned the dealer

on monday and they said try it again and it did start, but they told me to

take it in today for them to check it, and when i picked it up they said

nothing wrong with it, it was because i started it twice on the saturday

and only drove it a few yards, now its not april the 1st so can anyone tell

me if they are correct or are they just fobbing me off, thanks for any help.

its a 59 plate and done 6000 miles.

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I would like to ask if anyone else has encountered the problem I had at

the weekend, on saturday i moved my 1.33 Auris TR about 10 yards to clean

it, as i had done before many times, after cleaning I moved it ten yards

to where I park it, on sunday I went to start it to go out and it wouldnt,

later in the day i tried once more and still nothing, I phoned the dealer

on monday and they said try it again and it did start, but they told me to

take it in today for them to check it, and when i picked it up they said

nothing wrong with it, it was because i started it twice on the saturday

and only drove it a few yards, now its not april the 1st so can anyone tell

me if they are correct or are they just fobbing me off, thanks for any help.

its a 59 plate and done 6000 miles.

they could be telling the truth there , my wifes bmw is exactly the same - reverse it out the garage and switch off, then go back and start it,it either struggles then starts or doesnt at all . leave it for 5 mins and fires up .in fairness it does say in the bmw manual .

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Engine is running on choke when cold, you kill it after a few seconds, engine floods. Simple as that really. A bette example is the Mazda RX8, by a fault of design if you ran the car for less than 5 minutes and killed it, it would not start unless you disconnected the fuse to the fuel pump, ran the starter motor for 3 minutes to blast the fuel out, and then reconnect the fuse. This is mostly common on big engine cars but diesels are susceptible because of the glow plugs.

Hope the above helps :)

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Engine is running on choke when cold, you kill it after a few seconds, engine floods. Simple as that really. A bette example is the Mazda RX8, by a fault of design if you ran the car for less than 5 minutes and killed it, it would not start unless you disconnected the fuse to the fuel pump, ran the starter motor for 3 minutes to blast the fuel out, and then reconnect the fuse. This is mostly common on big engine cars but diesels are susceptible because of the glow plugs.

Hope the above helps :)

Thanks for your help, as I have had some other problems

with the car I thought maybe the dealer was fed up with

me and my moaning, and telling me anything to get rid of

me.

thanks again.

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Engine is running on choke when cold, you kill it after a few seconds, engine floods. Simple as that really. A bette example is the Mazda RX8, by a fault of design if you ran the car for less than 5 minutes and killed it, it would not start unless you disconnected the fuse to the fuel pump, ran the starter motor for 3 minutes to blast the fuel out, and then reconnect the fuse. This is mostly common on big engine cars but diesels are susceptible because of the glow plugs.

Hope the above helps :)

But arent all the engines in the Auris range injected? I always assumed a injected engined car couldnt be flooded?

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How do engines with the 'Stop/Start' technology cope?

You could be in a jam in town and only move a few feet at a time. Does that mean the car will break down and need a call out?

I can't see that being kind on your wallet...

I would say that there is a fault somewhere.

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No engine is immune to flooding, and I don't have stop/start on mine but can almost guarantee it wont kill the engine by itself if it has been run for less than say 5 minutes. Also the Stop/Start is on the 1.4 if I am not mistaken, a smaller engine wont experience the problem to the same level, someone with Stop/Start will need to confirm this though :)

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All the 1.33's have stop-start - this is the car that Red___ has.

I've had my 1.33TR since new in October 2009, and on it's daily commuter run in Birmingham is involved in heavy traffic all the way, involving short runs and stops. The 6.5 mile journey into work takes on average 30 minutes. No problems to date.

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The car had been left overnight, I seriously doubt if flooding was responsible, I used to shuffle cars around a yard, sometimes moving the same car a very short distance several times, and don't recall any of them flooding ever.

Are you sure the clutch was fully depressed when you tried to start it? Seems silly I know, but it happened to someone I know after they fitted mats to their Yaris, the front mat went under the clutch pedal sometimes stopping it from starting as the pedal was just not reaching sufficient travel, but not always!

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Well thanks for all the replies, yes the clutch was fully depressed, the engine

attempted to start on the two seperate occasions I tried, and even on the the following

day when the dealer told me to try it again it took time before bursting into life,

so I will make sure I dont do that again, but I am now looking to change the car at some

point.

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That happened to my Yaris a couple of months ago. Needed to move the car just a few feet and was unable to push it on this occasion so started it for just the few seconds. Big mistake! Went to start it later on (to drive it this time) and it took at least 15 seconds to fire up.

No doubt running for just a few seconds flooded the engine as it uses more fuel on cold starts, not a problem with the car, just its owner. Once it was warmed up, it was fine. Reda**e, your Auris is a good car but if you need to move it a short distance it may be best running it around the block so it gets sufficiently warmed up and always starts first time next time you use it. No problem with the car, most petrol engines have this characteristic, but no engine is happy running when cold

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If flooding is the culprit I'd say there is a problem.

Take any garage in the country, garages routinly move cars short distances e.g. from the workshop to park them to make room for the next one, do you think they run them all round the block so they will start again later in the day? I'd say no!

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If its cold enough for petrol engines to be running on the choke, then its cold enough for my diesel to idle at 1150rpm like it does in winter months, and so fat this week, it hasn't done this.

I really don't think its cold enough for the choke, and even if it was, the car should not be flooded and causing the car not to start.

If its under warranty, get it looked at. If not, try not to move it unless you are going somewhere over a half mile.

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If it is flooding to the extent that it will not start, you should be able to smell petrol, it will be stinking of petrol.

My Mrs had an MG with a fuel injection problem, mixture was way waaaaaay to rich on cold start, you could smell the petrol and had to blip the throttle constantly to keep it running at all until it heated up a bit, if you didn't it flooded and stopped .... but even though the engine had stopped running through flooding it would still start again within a few turns.

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I remember reading about this many years ago... Nissan Micra I think ? was very prone to this and the answer was that it was to prevent unburnt fuel from damaging the catalytic convertor on repeated cold starts. When the engine is hot it's not an issue.

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My dad mentioned ages ago, just recalled it not so long ago, that he knew someone who also moved their car a very short distance but upon trying to start the engine again not so long after, it refused to spark into life.

I'm sure he said the car's ECU had a system preventing the engine from running for a short while after running for a few seconds, something about protecting the car after it had rubbed away at the oil from the cylinder bores below the pistons (where the piston rings rub)?

As for my car's hiccup, I did have to blip the throttle a little to start it, sure it was flooded though you may ask why I gave it a little gas. No doubt a firmer press on the accelerator pedal would generate a larger spark? Symptoms of that system the Nissan Micra had, Mooly? Was absolutely fine once it was running

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Well I just want to add my final thoughts to this, in reply to one post, I did get it

checked over and they more or less blamed me for not giving it a run first, as someone

else said when garages move cars short distances they are not given a run first, I have

tried to like the car but with this problem and also a new ECU and a new clutch, and I know

MPG is diff with every condition and every driver, but according to the cars instruments

I am getting an average of about 38.5, which I dont think is that good, I drive with a

light foot and rarely go over 60-65ish, I think what compounds my disappoinment with the

Auris was having a Corolla beforehand which did not give me a moments problem, including

moving it on 100's of occasions to clean it with not one problem which i encountered with

this one, well enough of my moaning, I will let you know what i change too when the time

comes, thanks for all your help.

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Hi, I'm from Australia, I got a Corolla Hatch 2009 (auris in UK) 1.8L petrol, Running always on 98 octane ULP, a year ago I moved the car just 1 mt to get space in order to access the boot, then when finish I tried to reverse it but the engine didn't fire up. tried 2 times for 5 sec, each time (I knew something was wrong). so I called my mate who is a mechanic, he said to me: leave it for 20 min off. then try again for at least for 15 sec but no more than 30 sec, so I did it an it worked! after 10 sec.

later explanation was that sometimes dirt gets acummulated on the bottom of the tank, and it travels in the fuel lines, but usually doesn't get acummulated and it gets to the filter, problem is when it doesn't reach the filter, obstructing the line because the loose of pressure; but if you leave it for some time, dirt gets kind of dissolved by the action/nature of the fuel on it, and when you try again for certain time, pressure in the lines increases and pushes it all along the fuel lines.

I later checked the fuel filter and there were some kind of dandelion seeds in there. so it was confirmed (I got no idea how the got into the fuel tank)!!!, hope this help.

Have a good one, mate

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