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baba_metca

Dual Zone Ac Not Working On Drivers Side

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Hello,

The car is Avensis 2, 2.0 d4d (116bhp) 2005 LHD.

The drivers side does not ouput cold air when there is no DUAL control selected - left and right sides have the same temp settings. The fan speed on both side is the same, the mode section is working too - changing the air vent to the legs, window, mixed. But the air comming out the Driver's side is as without AC turned ON, the passanger's side air is cold, as it should be.

It's seems that the driver's side controls for the air are not working, it's like the air for the driver's side comes only from the outside. Is there any fast and easy way to check what is not working, any fuses or something like that.

Thanks in advance

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Hello,

The car is Avensis 2, 2.0 d4d (116bhp) 2005 LHD.

The drivers side does not ouput cold air when there is no DUAL control selected - left and right sides have the same temp settings. The fan speed on both side is the same, the mode section is working too - changing the air vent to the legs, window, mixed. But the air comming out the Driver's side is as without AC turned ON, the passanger's side air is cold, as it should be.

It's seems that the driver's side controls for the air are not working, it's like the air for the driver's side comes only from the outside. Is there any fast and easy way to check what is not working, any fuses or something like that.

Thanks in advance

I don't know if the Avensis is the same, but here is the diagnostic test for the RAV4 auto A/C system:

CHECK MODE PROCEDURE

1. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (INDICATOR CHECK)

(a) Turn the ignition switch to LOCK.

(B) Turn the ignition switch ON while simultaneously

pressing the A/C control AUTO switch and the REC/

FRS switch.

© Check that all indicators and the display area are

turned on and off 4 times in succession at 1 second

intervals.

HINT:

After the indicator check is completed, the system

automatically enters sensor check mode.

(d) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel

diagnosis.

2. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (SENSOR CHECK)

(a) Perform the indicator check.

HINT:

After the indicator check is completed, the system

automatically enters sensor check mode.

(B) Press the REC/FRS switch to enter actuator check

mode.

© After the actuator check is completed, press the

AUTO switch to enter sensor check mode.

NOTICE:

The sensor check must be performed again after

the actuator check is completed because sensor

check mode, which starts automatically after the

indicator check, cannot fully detect

malfunctions.

(d) Check the sensor check results displayed on the set

temperature display.

HINT:

• The illustration shows the display when code 21

is output.

• When 2 or more sensor check codes are

detected, the codes are displayed in ascending

numerical order.

• In cases with 2 or more codes, if they are difficult

to read, press the DEF switch to activate the step

operation and display them one by one.

• The codes are displayed in ascending numerical

order as the DEF switch is pressed.

(e) When any sensor check codes are displayed, refer

to the DTC chart (see page AC-39).

(f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel

diagnosis.

HINT:

Pressing the REC/FRS switch returns the system to

actuator check mode.

3. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (CLEAR SENSOR CHECK CODE)

(a) Inspect, and repair or replace the malfunctioning

parts.

(B) Clear the sensor check codes.

(1) While pressing the DEF switch during sensor

check mode, press the Rr DEF switch.

HINT:

Sensor check codes can be cleared by removing

the ECU-B2 fuse from the engine room No. 2

relay block for more than 60 seconds.

© Perform the sensor check and confirm that normal

code 00 is displayed.

4. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (ACTUATOR CHECK)

(a) Start the engine and warm it up.

(B) Perform the indicator check.

© When the sensor check is started after the indicator

check, press the REC/FRS switch to start the

actuator check.

HINT:

Perform the actuator check with the engine running.

(d) Check the temperature and blower levels by hand at

each step while the actuator check proceeds from

step 0 to 9 at 1 second intervals (continuous

operation).

HINT:

Each step number is displayed on the set

temperature display.

(e) To display step numbers one by one manually,

press the DEF switch to activate the step operation.

The step number changes each time the DEF

switch is pressed.

HINT:

• Each step number blinks at 1 second intervals

during the step operation.

• The illustration shows the display when step

number 5 is displayed.

(f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel

diagnosis.

HINT:

Pressing the AUTO switch returns to sensor check

mode.

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Thank you junebug1701.

I found the same procedure for the Avensis, and it's pretty much the same. The only thing is that it did not mention this.

"© After the actuator check is completed, press the

AUTO switch to enter sensor check mode.

NOTICE:

The sensor check must be performed again after

the actuator check is completed because sensor

check mode, which starts automatically after the

indicator check, cannot fully detect

malfunctions."

I'll do that today, with the actuator check too. I'm waiting to get warmer, because it was 14 (Celcius) this morning and i'm not shure that the A/C will work at all at that cold temperature.

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I have tried what the diagnostics for the AC on the service manual and nothing (the uploaded file m_05_1091). The check returned error code 00, which the manual says is "Normal". Well either the sensor check is not working or, the problem is outside the range of the sensors - broken air valve for the drivers A/C air or something else. A test with the Toyota Intelligent Tester II will cost me around 20euro and I'm not sure that it will give any result. Where are those valves. Are they in the AC unit or if I remove the dash I'll be able to see them. As I can see to remove the front dash the only thing to be careful is the removing the drivers Airbag. The other things are just a few bolts and bit more clips and claws. But will I be able to see the desired valves after that.

Does someone know what the column "Memory" on the m_05_1094.pdf file means. What are those minutes?

m_05_1091.pdf

m_05_1094.pdf

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Yesterday i visit a garage with a Toyota Tester II. The guys checked the car and did not find any abnormality with the tester. They said, that to find the problem they have to remove the front dash and this means at least a day in the garage. They assume that there is a mechanical problem with the valves for the cold air, not the air mix servos. The valve could be loosen or the connection with the servo broken or a broken valve. Disassembling the dash will cost me around 150 Euro and atleast a day without a car. I'm thinking of doing it myself but I don't wont to remove the steering wheel, just te garnish and the wheel horn (with the airbag). Do you know if it's possible to remove most of the dash, without the steering wheel, and still be able to see the valves for the cold air. The thing is that I do not have an instrument to remove the steering wheel and I really, really don't want to remove it, as there are alot of thing to go wrong there. The other things look pretty much unplug and plug connectors and some bolts, screws and nuts. Is there anything to look out for. I know that I should remove the Battery negative terminal for atleast 2 minutes before unpluging the airbag connectors.

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Had a similar issue, just spent 20 minutes switching vents from one position to the next while switchin on and off a/c and recirc to direct and dual to overall,

You get the message, also windscreen demise to recirc seemed to make a clickin which I suspect freed a sticky air flap, had to do three times over a few weeks as suspect I hand used that setting foe a while and it was stiff

Mister t also told me dash out for checks

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The problem was lack of freon. The thing is that no workshop, event Toyota in my town, knew about this anomaly. As it appear, when freon goes low, no cold air is past through driver side air vents. Passanger's cold air temp. felt allright (checked with hand). Do you know how is that made, is it electronic or mechanical. If it's electronic, why the tests did not catch it. Or maybe it is mechanical - lack of pressure or something preventing from opening the valves to past cold air to driver side vents? And still why this is not catched by the tester and incar aircon test from above.

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