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Best Paint Sealants ?


SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS
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Hi Boys n Girls... :D

I have a smallish problemo...been going crazy with the p2000...ing...on my Rolla recently...just ironing out minor scratches etc...and then polishing them up with a machine polisher and my Autoglym resin polish...However i've noticed the polish doesnt last long and i soon end up with dull patches...And soooooooo

A friend of mine told me today...once you have p2000...d....you should polish it up with a good quality polish...he recommeded turtle wax is best...and then use a paint sealant...But which is best??? I can only think of Supagard sponges! Any suggestions would be most highly appreciated! :thumbsup:

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firstly super resin polish should be used by hand. a machine will break down the super resin polish too quickly and hence you say it doesn't last. SRP isn't a "true" polish in the sense that it also contains sealants which seal your paint, which is why your car will bead when it rains after you've applied srp.

i tend to avoid artificial sealants and stick with good waxes to seal the car paintwork. a very good combination is polishing with srp and then sealing with autoglym HD wax, they make a really good combo and both are easy to apply and remove. just be careful with the srp getting onto black rubber/plastics as it can sometimes stain.

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Theres two options for you Sam (I'm guessing thats your name)!!!

There are either sealants or waxes both do the same work in protecting the paint work. And yes your friend is correct. Once you've polished a car you should really protect from the weather as a polish will only have so much protection to it...... and its not a lot!!

So sealants are easier to apply, dont normally last as long as waxes but..... all depending on how much you spend & what sort of sealant you use. Also wax's and sealants to give a different look for example waxes will hide a flake in the paint but will give you a deep finish to the paint while a sealant will make the flake pop and give you a wet look.

But if you're not into your detailing as heavy as I am and don't want to spend a lot.... I'd say a good wax would be Megs 16 - very large tin which will last for ages n ages when its only £12. A sealant there are a few but try Poorboys Jetseal109 or EX-P. Chemical guys rock a sealant too.

If you're wanting to spend a little more on sealants and want good protection then try a Werkstatt spray sealant kit or really posh you can try nano sealants from the following companies - Gtechniq, Nanolex & Wolfs chemicals.

What ever you choose if you need any guidance applying then post up :thumbsup:

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BRIDGES & COROLLAD4D...U GUYS ARE THE BEST! Thanks for the advice...i understand things alot better now. :thumbsup:

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Hi Sam, I replied to one of you're last posts that said that the whole experience of the vandalism that you suffered was making you think of selling you're beloved motor, but the thread disappeared.

Anyway this latest post gives me hope that you may have changed you're mind and decided to give it another go, I do hope so and hope you get it all sorted soon.

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Hi,

I have been doing a bit detailing on the rolla over the last few weekends, all was going well until i started the bonnet. I was using a da polisher with a meduim cutting polish & pad & did about 10 passes towards the front then noticed a slight halo patch or a paint burn(which is near impossible to burn paint with a da), looking like the clear coat had been removed, then another patch on the front ridge started to turn grey. Sought some advice & used a more milder polish which made it worse. So i removed the clear & top coat so now need a spray or a wrap to sort it. Now jap paint is very soft so be very careful & if poss measure the paint depth with a gauge(very expensive to buy).Now i have owned the car form new & never had any repairs done on the bonnet, when asking advice on the damage i was told, Just because you've had the car from new doesn't mean it's never been resprayed. It is, and always has been, totally common for cars to attract blemishes and scratches before they even leave the manufacturing plant. Such cars are sent back to the finishing-shop for spot-repairs. Imported cars, which have travelled half way across the world, are obviously even more likely to have suffered minor damage at some point. These are repaired by the importer or main dealers. Either of these things could be what's happened here, and using a DA on it has 'unfixed' the repair, even after 7-8 years. SO U HAVE BEEN WARNED GO CAREFUL WHEN POLISHING & MORE SO WET SANDING

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I have obtained the best results by using the AutoGlym HD products. It's important to use the cleanser first which really brings up the paint by removing any films.

Then you seal the finish with the polish which is easy to remove and doesn't dust when you polish it off. Hope this helps.

Thanks

Cyclopse

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Hi,

I have been doing a bit detailing on the rolla over the last few weekends, all was going well until i started the bonnet. I was using a da polisher with a meduim cutting polish & pad & did about 10 passes towards the front then noticed a slight halo patch or a paint burn(which is near impossible to burn paint with a da), looking like the clear coat had been removed, then another patch on the front ridge started to turn grey. Sought some advice & used a more milder polish which made it worse. So i removed the clear & top coat so now need a spray or a wrap to sort it. Now jap paint is very soft so be very careful & if poss measure the paint depth with a gauge(very expensive to buy).Now i have owned the car form new & never had any repairs done on the bonnet, when asking advice on the damage i was told, Just because you've had the car from new doesn't mean it's never been resprayed. It is, and always has been, totally common for cars to attract blemishes and scratches before they even leave the manufacturing plant. Such cars are sent back to the finishing-shop for spot-repairs. Imported cars, which have travelled half way across the world, are obviously even more likely to have suffered minor damage at some point. These are repaired by the importer or main dealers. Either of these things could be what's happened here, and using a DA on it has 'unfixed' the repair, even after 7-8 years. SO U HAVE BEEN WARNED GO CAREFUL WHEN POLISHING & MORE SO WET SANDING

You are right about Jap paint being soft and thin, which is why I am confused you used a medium cut? Surley you should have gone for a light cut or even a masking polish/glaze rather than a cut!

Sam, Bridges knows his stuff and has given some great advice, I would go down the wax route myself, there are several on the market which are all down to personal preference and price. From my experience Harly wax is fantastic, as are the dodo juice waxes, heard great things about collinite which is very similar to the Harly, and as for sealents the chemical guys v7 gets awesome reviews

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IM ON IT BOYS...HOPING THE WEATHERS GONA BE AYYY OKAYYY THIS WEEKEND...MAXIMUM SPEND ON MY POLISH AND WAXES...UMMMM...ABOUT £50ISH...THANKS ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yahoo:

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Jesus.... Burning through the clear coat with a DA that clear coat must have been really thin as I use a Rotary with no problems!!

Also SRP can be used with a DA on a low setting with finishing pad as can most glazes & fine polishes.

But have a look at different cleaning product websites read through the different products & link up and ask away. Polishedbliss is a great website which shows you & explains the stages too :thumbsup:

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Hi Bridges,

I don't think it was a burn as i have been told it is nearly impossible to burn paint with a da. I just seemed to have removed the clear then top coat in to small areas. So when the guys at meguiar's looked at the damage the people on the forum came to the conclusion that it had a smart repair(done badly). Thus when i hit it with a polishing pad(meg's yellow) & Meguiar's #83-Dual Action Cleaner Polish With about 10 passes then the bad repair could be seen after.

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Glad I haven't got my wallet on me!! Polishedbliss looks like it would give it a beating lol!

Hopefully my tub of dodo juice purple haze will turn up today. Never waxed a car before.....Only ever polished it. I'm scared!!

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I'v never waxed or polished a car before, never had a car worhty of it to be honest lol. I'v just bought some of that colliners 467 wax to try. What I wanna know is does everyone clean, polish then wax? or can you get away with just cleaning then waxing?. Is there a big difference between the two?

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If you're not fussed on removing all or most imperfections which are only noticeable under direct sunlight IE dreaded swirls but are after a base coat of shine for wax then AG SRP is a good polish to use by hand also has fillers which will mask some swirls.

Another product worth trying on dark colours Is PoorBoys Black Hole they also have version for light cars and it's a glaze which too have fillers in to mask those swirls and add an awsome shine.

KKK.... wax - don't be scared quite easy but you need to apply very very thinly to much & it's a biaaatch to remove. Get a foam pad (best method to apply in my opinion) rub in the wax and swipe any excess on the rim of the pot then apply in circular motion on your car doing panel by panel.

By the time you do a whole car in normal weather climate the wax should be ready to buff off. But to check swipe your finger through the wax applied if you see a clear line removed with out any smearing it's ready to be buffed off.

Once buffed off wait 24 hours ideally before applying another coat or as much time before you are able to apply next coat of wax.

Sorry for the essay!! :)

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My car has recently been mopped so I don't need to worry about swirls just yet. But thanks for the info and when it comes to it I'll have a look at te stuff you've mentioned.

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If you're not fussed on removing all or most imperfections which are only noticeable under direct sunlight IE dreaded swirls but are after a base coat of shine for wax then AG SRP is a good polish to use by hand also has fillers which will mask some swirls.

Another product worth trying on dark colours Is PoorBoys Black Hole they also have version for light cars and it's a glaze which too have fillers in to mask those swirls and add an awsome shine.

KKK.... wax - don't be scared quite easy but you need to apply very very thinly to much & it's a biaaatch to remove. Get a foam pad (best method to apply in my opinion) rub in the wax and swipe any excess on the rim of the pot then apply in circular motion on your car doing panel by panel.

By the time you do a whole car in normal weather climate the wax should be ready to buff off. But to check swipe your finger through the wax applied if you see a clear line removed with out any smearing it's ready to be buffed off.

Once buffed off wait 24 hours ideally before applying another coat or as much time before you are able to apply next coat of wax.

Sorry for the essay!! :)

Cool thanks for that :thumbsup: , I'v got loads of autoglym stuff, a xmas pressie from last year that I turned my nose up at cause my car at the time was a shed. So a good clean, polish with super resin polish and finish with wax. Thats gonna take me hours I can see it. Trouble is trying to get the right weather for it, it's too bright and sunny here at the moment, never thought i'd hear myself say that.

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