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Battery / Starting Problems


leedso
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Hi guys,

Back in December my '06 Aygo decided that after a break of about three days without use that it didn't want to start. The Battery was dead and did a little effort to turnover before all the lights on the dash faded out.

A friend had a Battery charger so we charged the Battery overnight, and in the morning it was fine. Took it into the local garage for a service, and asked them to check the electrics, and they said the battery was fine, and the alternator was charging at the right rate too.

Then towards the end of February after being parked up over the weekend, the Aygo did the same thing again. Once again charged up the battery, and I was thinking that maybe having the heaters / stereo etc all on during the winter was causing issues.

Anyhow, fast forward to yesterday morning. The Aygo was driven on Saturday but not even started on Sunday. It started up first time, but I got about three hundred yards, and as I pulled up behind a car turning right, the lights on the dash started fading, and the engine stopped. I managed to pull over, push it into a safe parking spot, and had to get the bus to work. I come home later on, and there's not even enough power to open the central locking. Managed to get aforementioned friend to help me jump start, but the battery didn't have the energy to get me twenty yards before it died again. At this point I'm figuring its the alternator.

Remove the battery, charge it up at home, replace the battery. Manage to get the car back to the house, and park it up in the garage. When it comes to starting it this morning, all I get is a two-step click when I try and turn the ignition. The battery seems to be fully charged.

Any ideas or solutions would be welcome.

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I can leave mine for more than a week and the Battery charge holds without any problem. Two questions come to mind.

1. What else xtra (electronic things) that you have in your car that is eating the battery/current and rerfuses to shut when you shut the engine?

2 OR the alternator is caput or some other link in the charging system is caput.

3. Unlikely that the Battery is caput since it seems to readily charge with the external charger.

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Hi Rajiv,

My instincts are that the alternator or the connections too, though its looking likely I'll have to get it towed as its not coming anywhere close to starting.

I don't really have any extra electronics apart from an MP3 input, which should go off at the same time as the stereo. I've been switching everything off obsessively before shutting down the engine recently too, so I'm pretty sure that the answer isn't coming from there.

I'll report back what the car doctor tells me. :P

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I'd put money on the Battery.

Modern batteries seem to go on forever then fail suddenly.

Unlike batteries of old which used to gradually fade.

A few years ago, I had one go on a Honda Accord I had.

Perfect......perfect......perfect......Drove to local shops......Completely dead.

Just like yours, wouldn't even unlock the doors.

Got inside, the dashboard lights were barely visible.

Any local garage can perform a "drop test" on the Battery which is to put a

really heavy current draw on it. This will usually show if the Battery is failing.

It's also very easy to check if the alternator is charging well.

Connect a voltmeter accross the battery when the engine is running.

Switch on the headlights, heated rear screen and see what the voltage is.

Anything around 12.8 volts plus is OK. Anything below 12 volts, the alternator is probably not charging.

Batteries are also much cheaper to try out than alternators!

Ian.

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I agree with Ian. Whenever I have had problems like this it has always just been a new Battery that is needed. I call out the AA or RAC and they check the car over and conclude it is the Battery.

I hope you get it sorted soon.

David

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Hi guys,

Just thought I'd drop back by and update you on where we are. Had it booked in at the garage on Wednesday, but wouldn't start at all for me to actually get it there.

Ordered a new Battery on Thursday, and put it in last night, and hurray, the car is back up and running. However, the Battery light is still on, so booked back in this wednesday to see if the alternator has gone too. :(

C'est la vie

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A new Battery and a new alternator later, and I'm hoping that's the end of it. MOT's up in a couple of months, so we'll see then.

The alternator was charging at 11.2 when it should be up above 13 according to the mechanic, so hopefully that should do the trick.

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A new battery and a new alternator later, and I'm hoping that's the end of it. MOT's up in a couple of months, so we'll see then.

The alternator was charging at 11.2 when it should be up above 13 according to the mechanic, so hopefully that should do the trick.

I don't think the MOT tester will care if it's charging - it's a safety test. So as long as it runs for enough time to test the car and the lights ....

That certainly explains your flat Battery - 11.2V is well below flat, so maybe your Battery was pushing the alternator round :)

The charge voltage needs to be well above 13V really - around 14V is normal.

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  • 1 month later...

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Bought my aygo 2 months ago...its a 55 plate and I love it....

Accidentally left the inside light on about a month ago and it drained my Battery over a couple of days when the car wasnt driven, nothing was working it was completely dead. Jump started it and it was fine. Got into the car yesterday after not driving it for about a week (was on holiday) and it wouldnt start. Unlike the first time, the radio, lights, wipers etc were still working. No problems with locking etc. My first thought was the Battery was dead so I bought another one and had it fitted this morning. It still wont start. Its making a slow ticking noise...like its trying to start but doesnt have enough power. Apart from these two occassions it has started first time every time ive driven it. Bought it from Arnold Clark so I wasnt expecting a problem so soon.

Hoping to get it into the garage this week but i cant move it! Decided to get an aygo because I had been told they're very reliable and Im hoping this isnt the start of a series of faults that are going to cost me a fortune.

Due to sit my driving test in 4 weeks so have been relying on my little car to practice as much as possible...

If anyone knows what might be the problem it would be greatly appreciated - Im stuck!

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Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Bought my aygo 2 months ago...its a 55 plate and I love it....

Accidentally left the inside light on about a month ago and it drained my battery over a couple of days when the car wasnt driven, nothing was working it was completely dead. Jump started it and it was fine. Got into the car yesterday after not driving it for about a week (was on holiday) and it wouldnt start. Unlike the first time, the radio, lights, wipers etc were still working. No problems with locking etc. My first thought was the battery was dead so I bought another one and had it fitted this morning. It still wont start. Its making a slow ticking noise...like its trying to start but doesnt have enough power. Apart from these two occassions it has started first time every time ive driven it. Bought it from Arnold Clark so I wasnt expecting a problem so soon.

Hoping to get it into the garage this week but i cant move it! Decided to get an aygo because I had been told they're very reliable and Im hoping this isnt the start of a series of faults that are going to cost me a fortune.

Due to sit my driving test in 4 weeks so have been relying on my little car to practice as much as possible...

If anyone knows what might be the problem it would be greatly appreciated - Im stuck!

Hi Lauren,the ticking or clicking noise could be the starter solonoid operating.

The solonoid is a electric switch which is causes a heavy duty switch to operate which can handle the heavy current load demanded by the starter.

This causes two copper blocks to come together and operate the motor part of the starter.

These blocks can sometimes get dirty and this can hinder the current flow to turn the engine over

In that case when you try and start the car.the solonoid closes which makes it click once

With dirty blocks the starter takes all the current starving the solonoid of power so that switches off,this makes a second click and can cause the switch to rapidly click on and off

If that is the case an auto electrical repair shop would be able to just change the solonoid or even clean up the blocks

Sorry if this is a rambling post,and you may know all this,but it is to show you may not have to buy a complete starter if that is the case.

Del

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Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Bought my aygo 2 months ago...its a 55 plate and I love it....

Accidentally left the inside light on about a month ago and it drained my battery over a couple of days when the car wasnt driven, nothing was working it was completely dead. Jump started it and it was fine. Got into the car yesterday after not driving it for about a week (was on holiday) and it wouldnt start. Unlike the first time, the radio, lights, wipers etc were still working. No problems with locking etc. My first thought was the battery was dead so I bought another one and had it fitted this morning. It still wont start. Its making a slow ticking noise...like its trying to start but doesnt have enough power. Apart from these two occassions it has started first time every time ive driven it. Bought it from Arnold Clark so I wasnt expecting a problem so soon.

Hoping to get it into the garage this week but i cant move it! Decided to get an aygo because I had been told they're very reliable and Im hoping this isnt the start of a series of faults that are going to cost me a fortune.

Due to sit my driving test in 4 weeks so have been relying on my little car to practice as much as possible...

If anyone knows what might be the problem it would be greatly appreciated - Im stuck!

Hi Lauren,the ticking or clicking noise could be the starter solonoid operating.

The solonoid is a electric switch which is causes a heavy duty switch to operate which can handle the heavy current load demanded by the starter.

This causes two copper blocks to come together and operate the motor part of the starter.

These blocks can sometimes get dirty and this can hinder the current flow to turn the engine over

In that case when you try and start the car.the solonoid closes which makes it click once

With dirty blocks the starter takes all the current starving the solonoid of power so that switches off,this makes a second click and can cause the switch to rapidly click on and off

If that is the case an auto electrical repair shop would be able to just change the solonoid or even clean up the blocks

Sorry if this is a rambling post,and you may know all this,but it is to show you may not have to buy a complete starter if that is the case.

Del

Thank you for replying....not to stereotype women but I have no clue when it comes to anything mechanical/technical so your reply was really appreciated.

Its going into the autoelectrician tomorrow morning so hopefully he will be able to find out what the problem is

With any luck (as it is an older car) it just needs a good clean.

I had a smart car for 3 months before this car and has never ending problems so hoping I have better luck with this car lol

Thank you!

p.s. just been told Ive used the wrong words...its not making a constant ticking noise its making a noise every 30s like its turning over and trying to start...like the noise it makes when you start it normally but then it just continues to make that noise....if that makes sense :S

Edited by lauren_1301
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Fingers crossed for a low cost repair tomorrow then :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Del

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