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Gods_gift

Diy Paint Repair For Scuffs On Plastic Bumpers

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Hi All

Can anyone advise how to spray plastic bumpers to remove scuffs? I've sprayed panels before on rally cars where finish doesn't matter but never had to touch up panels/blending before. Any tips welcome!

Cheers

Simon

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I too would welcome any tips on this as I have a replacement end cap that I have to change colour to match mine.

For instance.do I have to remove all the clear coat before putting on the new colour and if I am too enthusiastic with rubbing down and go through the colour coat,do I need a special primer?

Del

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I have similar issue on one of our RAV's which has suffered from driveways, car-parks, etc. not being big enough - well, that's her excuse.......

In two minds whether to do it myself or put it in a bodyshop to get it done properly. Have you thought about one of those outfits that come & do it on your driveway, works car-park, etc.? Somebody like Chip's Away, or such like? If the damage isn't too bad, they might be an economical option.

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I suppose it would be a good idea to ask a body shop what they would charge if I took the part in,as it would be done in a more favourable enviroment than outside with our climate as it is.

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I got a quote from a local shop about 3 or 4 months ago: £200 for full removal, rub down, fillers, undercoat, top-coat, new sealer strips & re-fit. Didn't go in the end as better half reckoned she would put a few more scratches on & get better value for money!

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Im gonna practice on a few Vaux Nova wing mirrors next week an see how they come up first then tackle the bumper scuff.

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Any cracks will need to be reinforced with glassfibre resin from behind so remove the bumper. The painted side needs to be flatted with wet & dry paper or a DA sander then fill the damage or cracks and flat down again until perfect, then using primer/filler spray the area. Rub down again using a very fine paper and water as a lubricant right past the repaired area and dry off, if you are happy with the results then you can use a water based colour base coat. This can be force dried carefully with a hot air gun or left to be touch dry, some people may flat this again with 2000 grade paper and water some will just apply the lacquer staight on to the base coat either way the lacquer like the base colour needs to be blended into the non damaged part.

Any black textured parts can be repaired in the same manner but after the primer stage a textured finish can be applied, this can be bought in fine, medium or course finish depending on the type of texture your car has but you will need to spray the complete part as it can't be blended in.

If you a handy person a very good result is possible with help and advice from your local bodyshop supply shop who will advise on what products you need ...... but if you're not then now you know why a bodyshop charges so much money :( , it will normally be cheaper to get a mobile bodyman like say Revive or Howard Basford etc who don't have the overheads of a workshop.

I hope this goes some way into answering your question on repairing plastic etc .... :thumbsup: .

Pete.

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Cheers Pete when you say the painted side needs to be flattened down what grade of wet n dry is used? 1200?

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Cheers Pete when you say the painted side needs to be flattened down what grade of wet n dry is used? 1200?

Yes that sounds about right and I would put a drop of fairy liquid in the water to stop the paper clogging and dragging on the paint also.

It's very difficult sometimes to explain methods of working ... for me anyway, and it's easy to miss some of the required detail for someone who has never done it before. I'm not a bodyman but I have done plenty of it over the years and recently worked along side an up to date body repair/sprayer who showed me the joys of working with modern water based paints, modern but very expensive lacquers and very low pressure spray guns .... fantastic stuff. It still requires skill but it's a far cry from the days of cellulose, acrylic and 2 pack paint, much easier and a lot less risk of damage to your health :yes: .

Regards ... Pete.

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Yeah I've used cellulose paints on spraying cars before and used the trick of drinking milk to line your throat or something not sure any worked i was high as a kite. I'll have a crack in a few weeks an post some pics.

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Could a water based paint have been used on my 2001 when new ?

Does water base need to be baked on or can it be used outdoors and left to dry without being like the sticky fly traps ?

Having a compressor and spray gun in the shed I wondered if it was worth having a stab at it !!

Del

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Could a water based paint have been used on my 2001 when new ?

Does water base need to be baked on or can it be used outdoors and left to dry without being like the sticky fly traps ?

Having a compressor and spray gun in the shed I wondered if it was worth having a stab at it !!

Del

Crofter,

We just used a hot air gun (maybe you could use a hair dryer) when the water based is first applied it doesn't look the right colour, grey could look greeny blue etc but when you apply heat carefully it looks correct as it drys which is only a few minutes which can be flatted down so any bits will be gone ..... it's the laquer that you need to worry about as that isn't water based but it drys quickly and the finish is amazing, too good in fact so this was taken down with a cutting compound and then polished to match the rest of the car that was very shiny anyway, it's just that new laquer is like glass!

Godsgift,

Yeh I remember the old milk trick we used to get 2 free pints a day when I started in the bodyshop paint booth straight from school (my dad didn't want me on the spanners like him LOL) but after a few months I had the doctor out in the middle of the night as I couldn't breathe .That was the end of my paint shop days and was transferred to the mechanics section working on HGV etc just like my dad.

Thank god for the modern health and safety regulations.

Regards .... Pete.

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