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surfcitylocal
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Hmmm, That's strange then.

How about leaving the red and black connected and disconnect the orange cable, If the little black box works correctly the lights should be on when the car is running but go off when you stop it. If not, I can only assume the box is faulty?

David (Tarquin) has used the same unit in a few cars I think so maybe he has some more ideas.

Craig.

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What happens when you turn the sidelights on, do the DRL's go out?

Craig.

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Good idea but we done that to begin. Must be the box but can't be sure it is that. What about connecting to a fuse or something that switches on with the ignition?

Thanks for advice so far lol. Hopefully Tarquin can help

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What happens when you turn the sidelights on, do the DRL's go out?

Craig.

yes they do. But when you turn ignition off the DRLs don't switch off

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Surely someone can help me on this issue?

My problem:

After setting up my DRL's, all connected to a auto box but Im guessing its faulty, the DRL's just stay on even after my engine is turned off. Could I wire it into my fusebox somehow - if so which spare ports would I wire it into and how?

Quite dissatisfied so far as I thought this would be a easy task. Thanks to the auto switch box that's meant to turn off the DRL's, which its not done. My DRL's goes off with the sidelights/headlights which is good, just wanting to know a easy fix to make DRL's automatically switch off with my ignition....

Hope someone can help :)

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As has been mentioned The unit comes with 2 x red and black leads that have bullet connectors and connect to the Ring BR039 DRL's the red and black wire go to the battery's negative and the red to the positive leaving the orange wire The orange wire goes to the green wire of the side light of either side. After wiring all lights should be off. when the engine is started without the lights on, the DRL's should be on after about half a second. when the lights are turned on, either manually or automatically,then the DRL's should go off and the lights come on. If the lights are off and the DRL's are on and you turn the ignition off , the DRL's stay on for up to 5 seconds then go out. If you have wired up the unit as described , and its not doing what i described then the auto unit is faulty. ( I have used many of these and they have run faultless. )

David

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Really appreciate the in depth reply David so many thanks on helping me :)

I done all the following as you mentioned but only to one side to see if it worked. Positive to Battery (red), black to earth point on car and connected yellow wire (sidelight) to green wire on sidelight. Would I need to do other side too to make DRL switch off?

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you only need to connect the Orange wire to either one of the side lights not both. connecting to both has the potential of upsetting the ECU as they are separate circuits that common up at the ECU and should not be common'd at the sidelight end. You mention Yellow, is your sidelight lead from the auto unit not Orange?

David

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you only need to connect the Orange wire to either one of the side lights not both. connecting to both has the potential of upsetting the ECU as they are separate circuits that common up at the ECU and should not be common'd at the sidelight end. You mention Yellow, is your sidelight lead from the auto unit not Orange?

David

It is a orange yes. My bad.

There are all connected up but needing the red positive to a switched live so it will come on with engine. Where and what wire can I splice into? I can't connect it to Battery as the DRLs will be on all the time. Im almost there. All I need in a switched live... Hmmm any suggestions?

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Surely if you suspect the box is faulty, why not just return it and get it exchanged? That way you can have them connected the way described by Tarquin above and all will be well.

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Surely if you suspect the box is faulty, why not just return it and get it exchanged? That way you can have them connected the way described by Tarquin above and all will be well.

Because I have cut into or spliced the wires. Therefore he's not going to refund it if I've ripped into it.

All I need is a switched live to solider the red positive onto and job done. The box does work to a certain degree as when you turn sidelights on with everything connected up the DRL's go off so something is working

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Can i ask where you got the unit from i usually recommend the one from Amazon at about £18 it has inside 3 x ic's and a power transistor with various compontha.it is a small box with mounting flanges and a yellow label onto is this the one you bought.

David

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Can i ask where you got the unit from i usually recommend the one from Amazon at about £18 it has inside 3 x ic's and a power transistor with various compontha.it is a small box with mounting flanges and a yellow label onto is this the one you bought.

David

Here you go David, as I'm not good at electric's at least you can see the one I bought...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-Light-Relay-Harness-Auto-Car-Control-On-Off-Switch-12V-A014-/270929531647?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f14a892ff

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Ok this isn't the one i am suggesting to others. although it suggests the connections are the same as we discussed, looking at the pic it indicates as you say a switched feed is required which i would say makes a simple relay in a box rather than an intelligent one i use from Amazon to get you out of trouble, the easiest way of getting switched live is to breach the bulk head by looking from the engine bay over the top of the engine and look for a large grommet that has cables coming through it. To the right of it is a rubber stub, you need t make a small hole and push the switched live cable through there ( you may have to extend it) then you need to get the wire to the rear of the aux power socket (at the bottom of the air/con unit) and scotch connect onto the switched live wire. (the one that goes to the centre of the socket) and your done. Personally i would abandon using the module you have and get the one i use its far better to install.

David

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I know the grommet your on about actually as I saw it today and thought the same as you. So I'll feed the red wire through the grommet and try get it to the AUX inside the car and scrotch connect it to that yes? I thought the AUX wasn't switched on until you plug into it? I'll give it ago tomorrow if this is a easier option.

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I'll try finish the job off neatly with the cable I have at the moment. Thanks for letting me know on where to find a ignition/switched place to connect it too :)

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There are a few connections in the fuse box that are ignition switched,but its difficult to work out if they go through other devices first and pulling extra current through them could be potentially bad news. The AUX is the way forward

David

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AUX it will be then. Can I extend any spare wire to red positive Im feeding through? I have a lot of spare wire in my shed and don't want to run to the electrical store and buy more. Thanks

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AUX it will be then. Can I extend any spare wire to red positive Im feeding through? I have a lot of spare wire in my shed and don't want to run to the electrical store and buy more. Thanks

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yes you can just make sure you connect it to the live wire of the AUX socket ( can't remember the colour) you can find it easy with a meter. or get a 12v bulb and put one end to chassis and touch the other end to either wire with the ignition on . On one it won't light the other it will.

david

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All routed through and spliced into red wire of AUX but nothing. There's a red, grey, black, white and purple all coming into AUX socket if thats any help David? It might refres your memory which one lol?

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Should be only 2 skinny wires will go and have a look

David

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Mine has 2 wires only. A black/ white wire which is negative and a blue wire which is positive and which you should be comnecting your fed through switched live wire

David

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Strange. I pulled the connector off AUX socket and there is 5 small wires into the connector. Maybe Im missing something? Don't want to be splicing into 5 wires.

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