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Upgrading 3Zzfe To1Zzfe


phatali
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Right, done 300 miles on the 1zz injectors and it was still spluttering when flooring it, missing at 1-2000 revs and flat at 5000rpms. So i said enoughs enough, time to put the 3zz injectors back in.

Popped the fuel rail off and this greated me.

08FDF11C-55C4-47AB-BD65-9B9FAE90E79D-2668-000005B2C3240FA1_zps51a26c3e.jpg

F0475321-D001-41FF-A864-6777EF12AE83-2668-000005B2BA7C311E_zpsa146fe3f.jpg

Yup, 2 of the 4 injector to block rubber spacers have split and the broken part is sat right over the injector. So neither would have had a good spray pattern at all. Gave toyota a quick call and replaced the lot and the cars fine on the 1zz injectors now :rolleyes:

For anyone whos going to do this conversion - pull the rubber spacers out of the cylinder head and place them on the injectors first and then install the lot in the head. I found this much easier and that way, you wont damage them :thumbsup:

AHA!!! now this is what i was talking about. Mine did the exact same thing. But i replaced them with the 1zz rubber spacers they seems a better fit.

keep getting this code too: P0141 annoying me a bit now. Then again im still running 3zz intake pipe lol.

Good work dude glad its finally sorted! :D

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Yes funny that :rolleyes:

I ordered some standard 3zz ones from mr toyota man, seem fine if you fit them to the injector first and then install into the head :)

Ive had no fault codes come up on mine what so ever so it has to be that pipe :thumbsup:

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Yes funny that :rolleyes:

I ordered some standard 3zz ones from mr toyota man, seem fine if you fit them to the injector first and then install into the head :)

Ive had no fault codes come up on mine what so ever so it has to be that pipe :thumbsup:

Ok so i have put a intake pipe on that seems pretty sealed up but im still not 100%. However no other fault codes are coming up except p0141. Thing is i have hit something pretty hard the other week and it rolled right under think it was a brick.

That fault code is related to lamda....right?

On my live data i am getting a contant voltage and very hight %

O2s 12 ....... 1.275v ( not changing its same all the time)

SHRTFT 12 ....... 99.21% ( Again stays constant).

I had a look under at it seems ok but is there a way to find out if iv f*ckd it?

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As exs says unplug the first lambda before the cat it see what it reads/runs like. Its very easy for a brick to snag the wires underneath IF you have no undertrays fitted. Id say that the first lambdas gone from those readings hense the cars overfueling like mad!

I had mine tested on a co2 emitter and its reading 0.015 compared to the 0.013 it was before the parts went on. So its only slightly seeing more fuel. The limits 0.300 so im miles under that.

The lamda should read 1.000

My petrol consumptions no different wat so ever over the tank either, though my trip comp is a good 7/8 mpg out.

I can video my car idling on my live data if youd like to cross refrence?

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Thanks for your advice guys. I will do as EXS says thenI will check the first lamda. Although the first lambda changes voltage on the live data.

Steve if you could film yours idling that would be really good. Im using my cousins garage they have a pit so can get under it pretty well.

Is the first lambda just before the cat. So under the car? As i only noticed the second lambda.

Cant believe i ran over a !Removed! brick.

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Just to be clear. Think that code refers to the second lamda and them figures i posted are from that lamda. But am i right in saying the first controls the second? As i say the first seems to be doing something where as the second is just frozen. Sorry if im doing your heads in!

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1st lambdas a basis for the ecu to figure co2, and base the running paramiters around that ie air to fuel. If this is gone the car will overfuel and run a bit rough.

2nd lamda does nothing other than bring the ecu dash light when its reading high co2s

If you have driven the car a fair amount whilst its over fueling your cat will be shafted. Good for performance but bad at mot time lol. If the cats dead the 2nd lamda will always put the ecu light on within 100 miles as itll always get a high reading. You can by pass this with a MIL light iliminator which fools the reading the sensor gives back into saying its ok.

Ill post my live data up for you later :)

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1st lambdas a basis for the ecu to figure co2, and base the running paramiters around that ie air to fuel. If this is gone the car will overfuel and run a bit rough.

2nd lamda does nothing other than bring the ecu dash light when its reading high co2s

If you have driven the car a fair amount whilst its over fueling your cat will be shafted. Good for performance but bad at mot time lol. If the cats dead the 2nd lamda will always put the ecu light on within 100 miles as itll always get a high reading. You can by pass this with a MIL light iliminator which fools the reading the sensor gives back into saying its ok.

Ill post my live data up for you later :)

Damn well i hope the cat aint mashed but yea have been driving it a fair bit. Sooo if the first lamda is gone the fuel air will be crazy right and then the second lamda will switch the fault on. I think i get ya lol.

Ok dude thanks for that.

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Right had a look under but couldnt check it out properly as the car was too low to come right over the pit. Anyway the second lamda is pretty loose it jiggles about but not from the bolt rather where the wires go into it. I reken thats whats causing my probs. Might not be though but only way to find out is replace it......just not sure if a universal lamda would do?

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Sorry couldnt vid the readouts as i decided to update my iPhone... 4 hours later it finished :rolleyes:

Yes if the second lamda is faulty itll bring on the code. As its not seeing the correct voltage but the car will be driving fine.

Any lamda will do there all the same, you will have to solder in a aftermarket one in tho as they dont have the plugs. Easy enough to do :)

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Sorry couldnt vid the readouts as i decided to update my iphone... 4 hours later it finished :rolleyes:

Yes if the second lamda is faulty itll bring on the code. As its not seeing the correct voltage but the car will be driving fine.

Any lamda will do there all the same, you will have to solder in a aftermarket one in tho as they dont have the plugs. Easy enough to do :)

No probs dude whenever you get a chance.

I hope that fixes my prob. Yea was thinking i would have to snip and solder a new one if it was universal.

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<a href="http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/?action=view&current=89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

I give it a rev at the end - the lambdas not even reading 1v at limiter

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<a href="http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/?action=view&current=89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

I give it a rev at the end - the lambdas not even reading 1v at limiter

Sweet thanks for that dude. Il check mine see if its reading that. But can you scroll down to the second sensor?

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Thats the lowest it goes mate??

I can put it on again in a min to make sure

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<a href="http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/?action=view&current=89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/89824A47-2528-41BC-BBD4-2E1A0A26F664-439-000000352893629C.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

I give it a rev at the end - the lambdas not even reading 1v at limiter

Sweet thanks for that dude. Il check mine see if its reading that. But can you scroll down to the second sensor?

Sorry dude my ifail of a phone decided to stop recording half way through!!

Heres the new link, baring in mind the cars stone cold...

<a href="http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/?action=view&current=DBA75849-FDDC-4194-B20F-C66522256170-760-00000052EF7513BA.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/steven252/DBA75849-FDDC-4194-B20F-C66522256170-760-00000052EF7513BA.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

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Thanks dude!!! Right OK so your second sensor is also at 99% but the voltage is real low. I think iv f*cked the heater function in it, or its shorting as my voltage is way over 1v.

Deffo sensor replacement I reken.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dude im finally replacing the lamda sensor on mine, is there a chance you could record your live data when the car is at normal temp? If you could that would be so ideal.

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I am off work tomorrow and i shall do that for you :)

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replaced the sensor.....so far so good. I was getting same sort of voltages as you were Steven, in the cold start vid. :D

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replaced the sensor.....so far so good. I was getting same sort of voltages as you were Steven, in the cold start vid. :D

:thumbsup:

I still havent had chance to get a hot vid yet.... Car hasnt been anywhere to get warm :lol:

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replaced the sensor.....so far so good. I was getting same sort of voltages as you were Steven, in the cold start vid. :D

:thumbsup:

I still havent had chance to get a hot vid yet.... Car hasnt been anywhere to get warm :lol:

Heheheh no probs dude whenever you do give it a good run. 140 miles all well so far!! eeek!! Just want to make sure the reading of live data are pretty much the same as yours.

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I might take it out for a drive tonight. Its only gone back and forth work the last week since i had the blow out :o

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Lol aye take it for a good drive!!180miles so far engine light stayed off!! Woo!!

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