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Senahel

Avensis-No Power On Take Off

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07 avensis d4d t2 100k.

I have no power on take off, car runs fine when it goes up around 2,000 revs.

Only bought this a few weeks ago so don't know the history.

After bying I changed all filters and car was running well until last week.

I lost take off power, have black smoke. (no lights on in dash)

I cleaned egr valve, no improvement,

Dash light came on.I then changed air flow sensor and egr valve, still no change.

Any solutions?

Thanks in advance

Senahel

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Read the pinned post at the top of the avensis forum, interesting info on SCV's and injectors??

Regards Phil

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Senahel

Your head ache is between SCV

They are seemed to play in the pump.

regards / Igor

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Ok problem solved.

So I'll put this up here to help others.

I had put a cleaning additive in with the fuel

And this pushed all the carbon/soot into the manifold and blocked it. There are 3 holes in the manifold 1 large and 2 small, I had cleaned the large 1 but not the small.

So the feed was restricted so power was reduced.

I cleaned this with the thin metal strip off the Wiper Blades as the hole was small.

When I started the car there was a cloud of black smoke and soot on the road.

The car is now back to normal.

Hope this is of help to others.

Senahel....

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Senahel, can you confirm exactly what you did as I have the same problem, many thanks.

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Senahel doesn't get on the forum very often but ...

he put something like BG244 or Forte fuel additive in the tank, ran the car then cleaned out the EGR valve and manifold pipe, not in this order but if he had it would have saved him a lot of money.

Do a search on here for removing and cleaning the egr valve and manifold pipe, it's been discussed so many times and step by step photos are supplied, you may even get it on youtube.

Regards Pete. :thumbsup:

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Thanks Pete, i have cleaned the EGR Valve before, perhaps it needs cleaned again, I thought when Senahel mentioned manifold it was the exhaust manifold not realising it relates to the manifold/EGR, i will take it off this weekend and clean again, on the last tank of fuel I used a tin of BG244 but had read that this can loosen the rubbish in the engine causing it to move and perhaps clog elsewhere on the way out, thanks again Kenny

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Senahel said:

"So the feed was restricted so power was reduced."

It doesn't seem to be connected with the holes in intake manifold under EGR valve. Even if you block completely EGR by metal membrane, no difference of power...Problem is when EGR blocked in open position all the time...

Probably he means something else....

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Hi Japcar

I took the EGR valve out and found it to be very sooty/tarry, cleaned it all out put back together and so far no more black smoke and full power on take off, you mentioned about the EGR valve being stuck in the open position, i did find that when I looked through one of the chambers I could see a gap where I would have thought it should have been closed/sealed, after the cleaning it then was closed.

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Hi Japcar

I took the EGR valve out and found it to be very sooty/tarry, cleaned it all out put back together and so far no more black smoke and full power on take off, you mentioned about the EGR valve being stuck in the open position, i did find that when I looked through one of the chambers I could see a gap where I would have thought it should have been closed/sealed, after the cleaning it then was closed.

I did the same as this, cleaned the egr, it was full of soot and was stuck open.

Senahel.....

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Senahel, has it been running ok since you did this

Andersonk

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I did the same as this, cleaned the egr, it was full of soot and was stuck open.

Senahel.....

OK, I agree with this, just disagree with first statement:

"So the feed was restricted so power was reduced."

It is just the opposite- constantly opened EGR means constantly exhaust gases allowed to go to inlet manifold...en spite partly blocked holes.

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Seems a lot of these soot problems are not the EGR getting stuck so much as soot blocking up the throttlebody after the EGR! :lol:

Had to clean mine out last year; EGR was dirty but otherwise fine but airway from the EGR to the throttle body was totally blocked up!

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Had to clean mine out last year; EGR was dirty but otherwise fine but airway from the EGR to the throttle body was totally blocked up!

There are many pictures how to clean EGR, but how did you clean the airway?

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Hi Japcar

I have been looking to find the step by step pictures relating to cleaning the EGR valve but cant find anywhere, where should I be looking.

Thanks in advance

Andersonk

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Hi Japcar

I have been looking to find the step by step pictures relating to cleaning the EGR valve but cant find anywhere, where should I be looking.

Thanks in advance

Andersonk

Hi Andersong

Unfortunately I can't find all pictures I've seen because it was long time ago and don't remember if it was in Russian or other foreign forum or here...but you can see these:

http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=114711

My EGR is different (1AD-FTV engine) but can't find picture, it is similar as Lexus one above and cleaning is similar as well...

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just my opinion but all my previous diesels i remove the manifold and clean it out

remove egr and make a blanking / sandwich plate in place of the gasket. gasket is good for a template.

dig out any crud if any in intake ports

fit manifold with new gasket to head.

engine runs cleaner and smoother with better emmisions in the long run

looks original

egr and wiring or vacum is still attached and no mil light appears

no loss of turbo pressure through a stuck open egr valve ( over fuel black smoke at exhaust)

no gumming of plumbing to worry about

i also vent my breathers to atmosphere if possible to stop gumming up of intake after maf to turbo or intercooler etc.

as a mechanical electrical engineer i have peace of mind knowing its for the good of the engine

too many emission requirements when cars are built but not needed for mot at intake side of things - only at exhaust end

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Thanks Japcar for the links/photos very good of you to take the time, Regards Andersonk

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just my opinion but all my previous diesels i remove the manifold and clean it out

remove egr and make a blanking / sandwich plate in place of the gasket. gasket is good for a template.

dig out any crud if any in intake ports

fit manifold with new gasket to head.

engine runs cleaner and smoother with better emmisions in the long run

looks original

egr and wiring or vacum is still attached and no mil light appears

no loss of turbo pressure through a stuck open egr valve ( over fuel black smoke at exhaust)

no gumming of plumbing to worry about

i also vent my breathers to atmosphere if possible to stop gumming up of intake after maf to turbo or intercooler etc.

as a mechanical electrical engineer i have peace of mind knowing its for the good of the engine

too many emission requirements when cars are built but not needed for mot at intake side of things - only at exhaust end

+Robster+, thanks for the info re blanking off the EGR, I am interested in trying this, I take it you just replace the gasket between the EGR and Manifold with a new solid (no holes) gasket, just one thing though what breathers do you vent and how.

Regards Andersonk

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venting breathers just find the crankcase breathers and from where they circulate back into air intake .

remove and blank off at intake

make up some hosing sometimes use an Oil catch can especially on petrol turbos that run high boost/high crank case pressure cause im a biker and like Oil free roads .

ill be looking into doing this mod in the next few weeks and posting pics

its all a bit ad hoc and might not look factory

nothing like a bone dry turbo/intercooler/throttle body(petrol) / and intake manifold

and yes correct making a solid no holes gasket to replace original.

i usually go for 4mm plate and cut shape/drill stud holes to suit

rough up the surfaces and apply good exhast putty but not millions of the stuff that can clump and harden / break off inside the manifold after it has squeezed down if you get my meaning as this would jam up a valve and be bad

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If my memory serves me right blanking the EGR off will throw up a fault code it's been tried on here before.

Surely if the car runs bad with the egr or manifold blocked then isn't that the same as putting a blanking plate in? This isn't like the old vacuum activated egr valve it's electronic and the ecu expects it to work whilst monitoring the results, if it doesn't see what should be happening then it will throw up a fault code.

In saying this I wish you the best of luck with the project, if you get it to work long term then we will all want one ;) .

Good luck .... Pete.

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ive never tried this on a toyota before but have been succesful on mainly vag stuff which alot of people talk about reprogramming ecu to turn egr duty cycle way down or off due to eml light issues

to try and explain a bit better and ill try not to be patronising but beneficial for other readers.

blanking it the way im talking about doesnt involve removing any solenoid or vac pipes etc to disable it . usually a fault code will appear if i remove the plug to the actuator solenoid or similar as the ecu is looking for the coil resistance as a feedback.

this can be fooled easily anyway by measuring the coil resistance and substituting plugging in of egr plug to solenoid with a resistor/s of near equal measurement - i carry various resistors in my van and could also try this as an easier solution but want to strip and clean inlet anyway.

i leave all original items there and just sandwich a solid gasket to block the air route.between exhaust and inlet

if a car runs bad with a blocked egr or manifold its cause either

1.the air intake is restricted with the accumulation of soot/oil/carbon and whatever other by product is in there.

2.or this build up is causing the egr to stick open - which is a route to lose turbo boost through inlet to exhaust (as if the wastgate was stuck open) and this causes overfuelling black smoke because the air cant keep up with the fuelling.

i may be wrong but cant foresee any feedback at exhaust side of things to throw up a code as the cat on a diesel ( of my age anyway 53 plate) is just a dumb unit and offers no feedback or monotoring of difference in exhaust .

im busy with home renovations but im going to attempt it next weekend and see how i go and will report back if it was worth it or not lol

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Not patronising at all we can all discuss and learn from each other.

It you blank off the egr valve there is no need for any resistors etc because if you leave the egr stepper motor plugged in the ecu will still read the resistance of it thinking it is working ok but what the ecu sees after that could be a problem. If the engine doesn't respond exactly as the ecu commands or expects then it knows it hasn't got full control of the engine resulting in an traction control system fault and the car goes into limp mode hence the fault code.

That's my take on it anyway as far as the Avensis is concerned, the early VAG system is a totally different and simpler setup.

As you are very busy right now don't feel under pressure to test your theory out but I for one will be happy if you crack it.

Regards Pete.

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