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Warning Lights

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On Wednesday i had been drivng for about 25 miles when i heard a bleeping from the dash, had a look and 3 warning lights were on ,brakes system warning light , abs warning light and the master warning light.

Also it had 3 messages , check brake system ,check abs system and check vsc system.

I drove easy for the rest of my journey a further 25 miles, brakes seemed to work all the time.

After parking up for 30 mins started my return journey another 50 miles no lights on at all.

All was fine Thursday and Friday driving 10 miles each day untill yesterday Saturday they returned on my way home from work.

Drove in the afternoon no lights untill about 5 miles they came on. Drove again in the evening again no lights untill 4 miles they came on.

This morning no lights untill 12 miles and back on.

Just been out again 3 miles no lights

They seem to come on when i brake.

Brake lights work

Brakes work.

Checked fluid ok

Just wondering wether it will get to the point where they will stay on permanent

Any ideas guys any help much appreciated.

Dont want to spend to much as am trading it in for a newer one shortly.

CAR is a 2006 rav 4 xt4 auto petrol.

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There's a switch on the brake pedal which is used with the VSC/ABS (not the brake light switch) and it's very often this at fault. The vehicle sees decel via wheelspeed and the yaw/accel sensor under the passenger seat, but no associated brake pedal application (or a noisy switch signal) and so throws a fault.

Brakes will still work, but you will have no ABS function at least. The condition will "reset" with every ignition cycle, but fault codes will be stored.

Often people we say "oh, it's the EGR blocked", but with that one, you usallly get engine and 4WD messages too. Besides, yours is a petrol.

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Thanks for the quick reply.

So petrol has no egr?

Will i need to replace this switch? if so what does it look like where do i find it.

Also how do i go about removing the fault codes.

Sorry for the dumb questions

As i said in my initial post the car is due to be traded in to a dealer for a new one shortly so i am trying to get away with not having to spend any money on it , if you know what i mean

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The brake load sensing switch connector is grey with 2 pins and located up behind the brake pedal. Resistance between the two pins should be about 1Kohm when brake pedal is depressed and about 200 ohms-ish when pedal is released. Note these values are no guarantee that the switch is OK, it may just be iffy mechanically as it gets pressed/released.

brakePedalLoadSW.jpg

The stop lamp switch connector is black and has 4 pins. There are 2 pairs of pins on this which each should have below 1ohm resistance between them, when the switch is not pushed and 10kohms when it is pushed.

Codes can be read and removed with a wire connected between two pins on the diagnostic connector. There are several posts on here about it, but I will try and find one of them.

Some diesels tend to get blocked EGRs for various reasons, petrols don't suffer from it.

EDIT: Try looking here for diagnostic connector info and codes:

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119158&st=0

before you ask, the diag connector is inside by drivers door, down by the bonnet release catch.

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I had the same problem, brake lights worked but replacing the switch cured the warning light problem, must have been intermittment. When you find the fault codes see if they are the same as mine http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136908&st=0 switch is easy to get at and replace.

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Thanks for the info guys.

My next door neighbour has a KTS200 machine could this be used to clear the lights

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quite possibly you might read and clear the stored fault codes with it, as it's a bit more than a cheap OBD powertrain tool. May depend on software it has loaded. Give it a go.

Clearly, clearing the codes is going to stop the fault from re-occuring.

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Will give it a go .

Thanks again

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