Sign in to follow this  
firemac

Waxoyl

Recommended Posts

Got our 02 vvt-i fully waxoyl'd today. Spouse & I have been looking at something new to replace her RAV with but frankly, we couldn't find anything that we thought was as good. So it remains a keeper and with this treatment it should last a few more years.

Had a good look around underneath when they put it up on the hoist and was pleased to see that there was only very minor surface rust here & there. The guy doing the work was quite surprised that a 10 year old vehicle looked so good.

Just wish the mpg wasn't so crap but, as my old sainted uncle used to say, "if you're only having to buy petrol then it's cheap motoring". He wasn't wrong.

Now I need to decide whether to get the 3-dr done but I'm not sure that I'll keep it.........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did my previous rusty bus myself and was suprised how easy it was, although a little messy. How much did he charge if you don't mind me asking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did my previous rusty bus myself and was suprised how easy it was, although a little messy. How much did he charge if you don't mind me asking?

Hi Sam,

£390 + VAT. Comes with 5 year warranty & free annual check-ups/touch-ups (if needed).

Interestingly enough I was telling the guy how impressed I was with Waxoyl, having done several cars myself in the past. Was surprised when he told me that they often get home-done cars in and their pressure washer takes the retail stuff off in seconds. Apparently the commercial stuff is much more robust and comes in two separate types, one for inside box sections, which doesn't dry out and the other for the underbody which is much harder & more tenacious leaving a sort of glossy finish that has an ingredient which reflects ultraviolet light so that you can clearly see if everything has been covered when they shine their u/v sensor on it . Having had a look at the finished job, I am impressed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

According to very recent experience, that's a lot cheaper than changing yer wifey's car, Jamesy, and I now see what you mean by the harder substrate of Waxoyl for the outer faces. The Tetrosyl which Anchorthingmy applied to mine has now cured to a rubbery slightly tacky finish, which I sincerely doubt my commercial Karcher would remove without spending hours trying.

Will take advice on 3 door wife's now, as suspension members look a bit "broonish"....

Big Kev

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

According to very recent experience, that's a lot cheaper than changing yer wifey's car, Jamesy, and I now see what you mean by the harder substrate of Waxoyl for the outer faces. The Tetrosyl which Anchorthingmy applied to mine has now cured to a rubbery slightly tacky finish, which I sincerely doubt my commercial Karcher would remove without spending hours trying.

Will take advice on 3 door wife's now, as suspension members look a bit "broonish"....

Big Kev

Hi BK,

Yes, it certainly is the cheaper option (as long as the dreaded autobox ECU gremlins don't kick in!). We just really like the car and haven't been able to find a replacement that we would be equally happy with.

I was going to do my 3-dr as well since it only has 52K miles up and looks as if it will perform equally as well as My Good Lady's. Only problem is that the driver's seat causes my iffy old back all sorts of problems; I've tried every possible adjustment without success. Strangely enough, the wife's car causes me no grief at all - the only difference is that hers has leather seats. I've thought about getting a nice set of Recaros (had them before & they are quite excellent, comfort-wise) but it doesn't look as though they do a sub-frame to fit the RAV. Will look elsewhere but I fear that the car may be for the high jump soon.

And, yes, I've considered swapping with better half but she needs the five doors for the kids, etc.And there's bugger-all leg room in the back of the 3-dr. OK for me as I usually travel alone, apart from suiter & briefcase.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Years ago we undersealed a Shogun (grey import, no rust protection whatsoever) with Dinitrol because in various tests it outperformed Waxoyl. Looking at Landrover forums, the balance of opinion seems to be that Dinitrol is a superior product although more expensive and possibly trickier to apply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have not heard the name Dinitrol for years. Is it still being produced?

If i remember there was two types for the treatment,one fine for spraying inside body cavities and a thicker one for external use.

There were lots of firms carrying out the treatment here in Norfolk.

This was in the early 70s.

when i had my mk111 cortina done they gave me about 2 ltr of each type for free when i asked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Years ago we undersealed a Shogun (grey import, no rust protection whatsoever) with Dinitrol because in various tests it outperformed Waxoyl. Looking at Landrover forums, the balance of opinion seems to be that Dinitrol is a superior product although more expensive and possibly trickier to apply.

Could be that Dinitrol is superior but interestingly one of the biggest LR modifiers, Nene Overland, have been supplying Waxoyl treatment since the 80's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Waxoyl is also easier for the consumer to get the mitts on, even Halfrauds stock it.

TBH for general road use I doubt it makes any difference, so cost and ease of application is most likely the decisive factors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did my Landrover with Dinitrol. It took 6 cans of Dinitrol cavity wax. This i sprayed on the chassis and its a doddle. Just looks like brown water. gets into all the nooks and crannys. Then i overpainted that (wet on wet) with Dinitrol underbody black wax (6 cans) . total cost of cans was under £100 and took me a few hours work. The result is great. Having used Dinitrol AND waxoyl i have to say Dinitrol wins hands down in both ease of application, what the finish is like AND how long it lasts. great stuff. must be if 90% of car manufactuers use it AND the MOD

ALL the cans are just aerosol and I got them from E Bay. Also the cans came with a 60cm probe that sprays a 360 degree fan of dinitrol into chassis rails or door bottoms etc. Very useful (though not needed for a Rav chassis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very useful (though not needed for a Rav chassis

Whys that then?? :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cos the Landrover has chassis rails that are "hollow" Rav is a different chassis altogether I think. monocouque or summit lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The longitudinal sections are hollow. I have a special extention tube which I used to treat BKs RAV. You just push it into the hollow section, press the trigger and pull it back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a special extention tube. You just push it into the hollow section, press the trigger and pull it back.

What you do in your own time sir is your own business!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know. I was going to treat Kev's rear hollow section but there wasn't enough in a 5 litre can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I am getting a very disturbing mental picture of "Our Kev" someone said too portly to get under a Rav, now I understand he has a considerable rear section.............

Poor Kev........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah thats the same as the tube that came with the Dinitrol. Push it in, push the button and pull it slowly back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Considerable is one description but vast is probably more accurate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you would all forgive the mental picture, I will not rise to this......suffice it to say I will be pressing charges for Section Abuse.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Money well spent Jim :thumbsup:

How can you tell if its been waxoyled in the past,and how long does it last,does it have to be reapplied after a certain amount of time??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dont think theres any set time for re-application. Give it a visual every year and see whats required.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Money well spent Jim :thumbsup:

How can you tell if its been waxoyled in the past,and how long does it last,does it have to be reapplied after a certain amount of time??

Hi Paul,

I agree with Ian, there's no set time but once you have it done professionally, you should get some sort of warranty and annual checks included. The guys who did ours (Rustmaster near Knutsford) provide a hologram sticker for the windscreen which confirms that the car has been treated. It also cannot be removed without destroying it. So that's one way to tell.

Otherwise, as waxoyl doesn't totally dry out, you could remove a door or boot trim to check if there is a film of waxoyl on the metal underneath. If it has been done (properly!) in the past, you should be able to smear the film with your finger. Don't however get confused with the mastic sealers around things like wheelarches where they meet the wing panel which should be quite solid and not "filmy"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK thanks both,i will have a look and see what i can see.

When i was under the RAV last time putting the side steps on, i couldn't believe how clean it was under there,so would the waxoyl have been visible on the outside or is it just sprayed on the inners of the chasis??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK thanks both,i will have a look and see what i can see.

When i was under the RAV last time putting the side steps on, i couldn't believe how clean it was under there,so would the waxoyl have been visible on the outside or is it just sprayed on the inners of the chasis??

It depends upon whether it was done DIY or professionally. Also, depending upon when it was done, years of road grit & related s*1t will have adhered to it making definite confirmation tricky. However if done DIY, you should be able to see some aged waxoyl residue on things like brake pipes or suspension fittings - again feel for the waxy film. If it was professionally done at any time, then the underside will look like it has been painted but ravaged by road cr*p. It would be pretty difficult to check inside the chassis rails. Is it possible to get contact details of previous owner & call them to ask?

Ours was really clean as well, as I mentioned before, with only a few bits of surface rust obvious, so I wouldn't be surprised if yours was the same, or better given that it's younger than ours. For what it's worth, if you can spot some surface rust (and it's a rare vehicle that doesn't present some, even after as little as 12 months' use) then it's likely that the car hasn't been treated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will be doing a tech hints article on products supplied by Dinitrol soon. They use a clear liquid wax for box sections and a thicker waxy product for the vehicle underside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this