Auris 2.0 Sr Diesel Consumption Shock!

[acetip]

Esso forecourts, at least around my way will match the price of any Supermarket or garages locally.

Nothing wrong with Esso fuels.

When i had diesel cars the engines always seemed quieter using Esso.

Cant see the point of buying addiitves and fuel like V power to improve consumption as the extra cost cancels out any gain.

[P34RC3]

Well i payed £14 for my millers that does 10x 50L tanks. Im not sure how much more v power is now compared to there regular fuel saver, but when i worked out how much more you would pay a liter on 10 fill ups it was alot less. In my eyes very much worth it when you can physically hear and feel the difference it made to the engine.

However how much difference its made on my auris im not sure. From day one i used millers fuel additive. A old guy owned my car before me and obviously didnt drive it hard. I could tell he hadnt as when it went higher up the revs it really struggled and now its fine and feels more responsive. Also doesnt smoke at all like it did the first time i opened it up. Weather that was just from the additive or my driving style or a combo of both i will never know.

Id recommend at least giving it a try for the 10 tanks full and see how you get on with it. If anyone uses v power you should defiantly give this a go as like i stated above it will save you money.

[Daveyonthemove]

I am on my last tank of fuel in my Auris, and had half a bottle of millers left over, so I chucked it all in the tank which had about 50 litres in.

I did notice a smell when parked up, and the car seems to be pulling very well today despite being quite warm for this time of year.

No improvement in economy, but i've not really been trying to get the fuel to last.

The next person to own my car will have a very clean engine and injection system.

[acetip]

When you think how little you put in a 50 ltr tank its a wonder it makes any differece at all or is it all in the mind.

Top Gear tried out Millers, not sure if it was on a diesel or a petrol model but the result was worse consumption. But then that was Top Gear doing the test.

Maybe Two stroke oil would be better.But not cheaper i think.

Someone on these forums sometime ago filled up his car with V power or whatever and said as soon as they started the engine on the forecourt it ran quieter and ticked over smoother.

Which is absolute rubbish as the new fuel would not got through from the tank to the engine for sometime.

All in the mind.

[P34RC3]

There was a video done by 5th gear or top gear of fuel comparisons and they found super market fuels gave less bhp and v power and other branded performance fuels gave more bhp then the manufacture had stated. But like you said millers could all be in the mind. maybe ill run a few tanks without and see what happens?

[Phil_1985]

V power actually gives me on average 2mpg less than normal Shell fuel. This was based on manual calculations and using v power for 11 months.

I don't bother with v power anymore, more expensive, less mpg, felt no difference when I switched to normal fuel AND my dpf still blocked up anyway with the P2002 code.. Luckily my toyota extended warranty covered this for free... They had my car for a week.

[FROSTYBALLS]

Have a look at the 'Real MPG' part of the Honest John website - http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/realmpg/toyota/auris-and-auris-hsd (What Car hijacked this idea for their own use).

[mrpj]

Well i payed £14 for my millers

Have a search on eBay, It can be found for much less than that, delivered. Here you are, first search result! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Diesel-Power-Ecomax-Fuel-cleaner-Additive-treatment-500ml-/170941323656?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27cce59988

[acetip]

Have a look at the 'Real MPG' part of the Honest John website - http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/realmpg/toyota/auris-and-auris-hsd (What Car hijacked this idea for their own use).

Ive just checked the Real Mpg. Well there has be something wrong with the claimed fiqures for the !.8 vvti. who would buy a diesel if this car does that miliage to the gallon.

[FROSTYBALLS]

The 1.8 vvti is the Auris HSD. Being a hybrid, it should be more comparable to diesel than petrol.

[Parts-King]

My 1.8 Auris Hybrid returned 55 MPG nearly all year round

I am in a 1.33 Yaris CVT and get 42 MPG at the moment

Kingo

[Cyker]

I thought you were road testing the Yaris HSD and GT86 for us Kingo!!!

V-Power (The diesel one anyway, the petrol one is pointless unless your car has knock sensors) is a funny thing; It has less energy per mass than normal diesel but burns faster and more completely.

I've been finding very consistently that in town at low RPM, my Yaris has a bit less pull until the revs pick up - I find I have to keep the revs above 1500rpm rather than 1000 like I'd normally do to keep the car responsive. That and the lower energy content results in lower mpg - The lowest mpg I've clocked so far on a tank has been on a 99% town run driving in winter with the VP diesel (52mpg)! This really sucks as one thing V-Power diesel would have been great for (At least in theory) is staving off DPF and other soot-related problems as it does burn noticeably cleaner.

On the motorway is the opposite; The lower energy content gets eclipsed by the faster and more complete burning - Car feels stronger at those higher revs and the lovely in-gear diesel torque stretches another 1000rpm above where it normally starts to trail off. The launch from 60mph to 70 is noticeably stronger and mpg is higher; On a 80-20 motorway/town mix I averaged about 70mpg on a tank! In winter!

What gets me is that I can get a nearly 20mpg difference out of this car on the same kind of fuel!!

[Parts-King]

I thought you were road testing the Yaris HSD and GT86 for us Kingo!!!

I was going to road test the Yaris HSD, dont remember saying the GT86

Not had one here as a demonstrator yet, but there is one on order, here this month. Will do it when I get chance

Kingo

[P34RC3]

I thought you were road testing the Yaris HSD and GT86 for us Kingo!!!

V-Power (The diesel one anyway, the petrol one is pointless unless your car has knock sensors) is a funny thing; It has less energy per mass than normal diesel but burns faster and more completely.

I've been finding very consistently that in town at low RPM, my Yaris has a bit less pull until the revs pick up - I find I have to keep the revs above 1500rpm rather than 1000 like I'd normally do to keep the car responsive. That and the lower energy content results in lower mpg - The lowest mpg I've clocked so far on a tank has been on a 99% town run driving in winter with the VP diesel (52mpg)! This really sucks as one thing V-Power diesel would have been great for (At least in theory) is staving off DPF and other soot-related problems as it does burn noticeably cleaner.

On the motorway is the opposite; The lower energy content gets eclipsed by the faster and more complete burning - Car feels stronger at those higher revs and the lovely in-gear diesel torque stretches another 1000rpm above where it normally starts to trail off. The launch from 60mph to 70 is noticeably stronger and mpg is higher; On a 80-20 motorway/town mix I averaged about 70mpg on a tank! In winter!

What gets me is that I can get a nearly 20mpg difference out of this car on the same kind of fuel!!

I notice my car has nothing before 2k but im just using the millers additive not v power.

[P34RC3]

Well i payed £14 for my millers

Have a search on eBay, It can be found for much less than that, delivered. Here you are, first search result! http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27cce59988

Yh i paid £14 from Halfords. You can buy it in bulk for really cheap. I just bought it from Halfords as i couldnt be bothered to wait for it to come.

[P34RC3]

Have a look at the 'Real MPG' part of the Honest John website - http://www.honestjoh...s-and-auris-hsd (What Car hijacked this idea for their own use).

Strange to find the dervs are about the worst on fuel LOL

[Cyker]

'eh? Aside from the T180's (Which are known to be pretty thirsty as they're tuned for performance rather than fuel economy), the diesels beat everything except the 1.8HSD...

I do wonder how these newer engines are set up tho'; My brother's 2.0 D4D Corolla pulls like a train from standstill yet a few people have mentioned their newer 2.0 D4D Avensis and Auris' feel a bit wimpy below the 2000rpm turbo threshold. Maybe I just have lower expectations?

(I've driven some truly awful cars but it makes me appreciate the ossomness of my Yaris that much more :D)

[Uncle Buck]

I think the main difference in how modern diesels drive is down to how they're tuned for emissions. As the wick gets turned down every year to lower the model's road tax, you tend to get less responsive engines with poorer acceleration. Not all fall into this category, but in my experience most certainly do.

I chose the 2.2 SR 180 model because it looked sporty but also has plenty of overtaking ability for A & B class roads - something that is pretty much crucial up here in the north. We don't have any motorways at all & the dual carriageways are very short, so it really helps to have the 'shove' to get past doddlers more safely.

[Daveyonthemove]

I just did my last ever drive in my SR180, and achieved one of my best MPG figures driving from Bristol to my home town 120 miles away. I reset the Average MPG readout prior to setting off, drove across town and hit the motorway. Set Cruise control to 1900 rpm (65mph-ish) and let it drive all the way home.

Weather was good with little/no wind most of the way and dry conditions with temp of 11c. Traffic was light and there was no hold ups for the entire journey.

Highest reading was 51.3mpg, but by the time I stopped and parked up it had dropped to 49.6mpg.

That was with 2 adults and a child in the car with a boot full of bags!

I did chuck half a bottle of Millers into my last tank full just to use it up, but I doubt it made that much difference really. So if the 'thirsty' 2.2 can get 50mpg over 100+ miles, the 2.0 should manage it if driven economically (boringly?).

[Tombola11]

Auris Girl, I would suspect there is a problem somewhere.

Firstly, I try to remember that colder days will make the car feel faster, but also guzzle fuel quicker. This happens to most cars, so if it has been cold around your area lately, that is a contributing factor.

Secondly, what brand of fuel do you use?

There are multiple threads about supermarkets fuels being the same, or cheaper and all fuel is from the same hole in the ground, but I assure you that some fuels do make the engine run better. Personally I stick to Shell. Mostly fuel saver, but occasionally Vpower. You will notice a difference if you try Vpower over at least one tank full, and both of these fuels use additives and detergent packs to remove build ups. BP and Texaco also offer similar fuels.

The free and easy solutions are:

1) Check air filter. If the car can't breathe, it will struggle just like us humans. Blow it out or clean with a hoover if it's obviously clogged up.

2) Reset the ECU. There is a fuse under the bonnet for the ECU which will keep all other settings on memory, but reset the ECU. I can't recall from memory which fuse it is, but your handbook will be able to help. There are 3 common methods. 1 is to remove the fuse and then pump the brake peddle a few times in order to discharge any electrical current that could retain memory. replace fuse and drive economically and hope it learns this style of driving. 2, remove fuse and leave for 30+ mins. This does the same as the 1st method but obviously takes longer. 3, remove negative battery terminal for 20 mins. This will reset all radio presets and dash memory like time and date,so only do this if you are prepared to re-set it all.

The next tip is to get some electrical contact spray and very carefully spray the MAF element to clean it up. It will dissolve on its own so give it a few thorough blasts with drying time in between. DO NOT touch it, they are fragile and expensive. It's not worth the risk of handling it when there is no need.

If none of that works, then get the dealer to check it over. Could be an over active injector or some other problem that would need their attention.

Bear in mind that I do most of the above once every 4 months and my SR180 has returned 43mpg over a 2 year period, and has seen low 50's and high 40's on motorway runs by sitting at 1900rpm (I don't worry about the speed).

Hello Davey,

I really want to try your ecu reset for my SR180. I have consulted the manual but have found 2 different fuses under the bonnet that relate to the ECU main body no. 17 and no. 20. Number 20 just says main body ECU and number 17 says Main Body ECU, power windows, gauge meters, power door lock system, vehicle stability system. I'm guessing its no. 20 but just want to make sure. Also I'm assuming engine off remove fuse, pump the breaks and wait for 10 mins or better still 30 mins. Then replace fuse, start her up and go for a drive as economically as possible? How long a drive?

Thanks Tom

[Daveyonthemove]

From memory, I think it is #20.

Yes, do the above and you should be fine. I always try to time it with a long journey where I am not in a rush to get to my destination and can expect steady traffic.

As I live away during the week, I usually do it on a Sunday before I drive 100 miles down country ready for work.

I would imagine a 20-30 mile steady run would be good enough to get the engine up to temp and running efficiently and start returning good MPG.

[neilch]

I get fairly decent mpg - its somewhere in the 50's although i've switched to L per 100 km. At present I'm getting about 5.3/5.4 on the 2.0 d4d. A combination of motorways and country roads and a small bit of city driving. the motorways tend to be a cruise at 70mph and other roads as conditions dictate..

Broadly speaking I'm happy with the 2.0 engine, though am curious about the 2.2....still not worth my while changing though....

[REMEMAN]

I have a 2.0ltr SR diesel and I have had up to 54MPG with good driving on long runs but in town and around it drops sharply to around 50 MPG or just below. When I bought the vehicle it was showing 46.3 MPG. I admit that you cannot boot it at all, otherwise the MPG drops like a stone. I drive for economy and not at all for speed. I never exceed the NSL even with other cars I have owned and this gives good MPG. If the pistons are working at 3,000 RPM then it reflects that you will use more fuel than if travelling at 2,000 RPM, common sense really. The more the pistons travel up and down the more fuel will be used. However, I must agree that the Auris is a big disappointment from my previous Corolla which returned 62.5 MPG and I could floor the pedal if required.

[Tombola11]

An update after resetting the ECU:

I took out fuse number 20 and followed the procedure, reset the average consumption then took it for a lovely economical drive of 30 miles or so. The gauge after this jaunt read a much more respectable 48 mpg. I was very pleased with this figure but was now wondering how long it would last.

Now, two weeks later, after driving economically still the gauge reads 34mpg and brimful to brimful test shows 33mpg.

This seems to confirm the first bad review I found on the Internet that I dismissed at the time a one off to be true. It does seem to have a software issue where the ECU does not adapt to driving styles as it should do which badly effects the fuel consumption. As mentioned above in the other case of this I found on the net the guy had bought a new SR180 and was upset with a few things about it including the fuel consumption which he said Toyota admitted to him that there was a known issue with the software and that they see as an inconvenience rather than a problem and therefore not worthy of fixing.

If this is true surely a simple software update could fix this problem with minimal hassle and expense to Toyota?

It's a big problem for me as the mpg issues ruin an otherwise great car!

[Uncle Buck]

I like my SR180, but I'd like it even more if I could get 45 MPG average from it !