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Corolla With Issues- Help Please


J-Lancs
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Hello mate, sorry for the very late reply.

Hello

don't be sorry, it's ok.

Anyway I noticed this week that the problem with pulling my car is getting worse. Now I can feel it much stronger than before even check engine lights :g:

I read that many toyota users changed oxygen sensors and it didn't help at all. Actually I couldn't find the answer that anyone sloved the problem :crybaby:

I have to go somwhere to check why CE lights and then will think what to do. If You have any news from the mechanic pls write ...

best regards

Artur

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Hello mate, sorry for the very late reply.

Hello

don't be sorry, it's ok.

Anyway I noticed this week that the problem with pulling my car is getting worse. Now I can feel it much stronger than before even check engine lights :g:

I read that many toyota users changed oxygen sensors and it didn't help at all. Actually I couldn't find the answer that anyone sloved the problem :crybaby:

I have to go somwhere to check why CE lights and then will think what to do. If You have any news from the mechanic pls write ...

best regards

Artur

Hello again,

Bid of a tempered update:

Went to pick up car from garaage yesterday and was 'told' that he had put some injector cleaner in the car and taken it for a drive down the motorway. I remember I put £15 juice in the car before handing it over to him (did 1 mile) but when i got into the car the petrol light was on and the car had travelled 115 miles!

So i had a heated discussion with him and left. His act has made me question his character and worksmanship yet AGAIN and this time I told him how i felt and i doubt i will ever go back.

As for the car, still the ame problem but thins time i have put some 'CATACLEANER' into the system. apparently that cleans the cat and oxygen sensors (as per bottle info) so thats the last hope really.

quite surprised to hear that you havent read of a solution to the problem yet Artur mate, Im new to the Toyota frum and cars so i thought i may have not read enough.

It IS worrying to think that this problem will take the car to its 'grave'...

SURELY there must be a fix out there.

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SURELY there must be a fix out there.

of course there is ..but nobody knows where :dontgetit:

anyway, today I bought a pocket tester for about 40 pounds to check faulty codes in my corolla. There were 2:

P0135 and P0134 - both refer to oxygen sensor (first sensor, before catalytic converter). Maybe this is the problem? I am just thinking...I read that some people changed this sensor and it didn't help? Maybe there can be many different reasons which cause our problems?

Well now I will try to find the right sensor oxygen and replace. Will be back soon ...

by the way, your mechanic is great. Why didn't he drive 1000 miles to clean injectors? I am sure then your car would be like a new :bangin:

best regards

Artur

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He might as well have! My anger is that he most likely lent it to someone to thrash around for the day and bring back.

He is way too busy (fiddling) to drive my car over 100 miles..

The Catacleaner seems to be working it's magic a little as i have noticed a slight bit of improvement but the full bottle hasn't been burned yet so will take it for a looong drive tonight (like my mechanic did) and see what results i see.

I will keep you updated likewise please keep me updated too.

I do believe however my CAT has crossed the boundaries of 'repair' si i will need a new one and maybe a LAmbda Sensor aswell...but these are expensive parts i must say! is there any place where they do good prices? so far I have found a Full Cat on eBay for £140 delivered and a Bosch Lambda for £80. is that right prices?

Thanks

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hello,

today I check oxygen sensor and according to the information I found there is a heater circuit between two white wires and the resistance should be about 15 ohm. I wasn't able to measure this resistance because there must be open circuit somwhere inside the sensor - that is why the oxygen sensor wasn't working correctly (faulty code P0135 appeared).

So I am now looking for the cheapest Bosch ox sensor no. 0 258 006 695 (is this no correct for our engines?). Currently I found this sensor for about 60 pounds. Will order it on Monday.

Anyway, you think the cleaner can solve the problem? I am not sure ... but if you have any news pls revert.

best regards

Artur

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hi everyone,

I have a 2010 toyota verso 1.6 vvti petrol and i want to change the engine oil but i prefer to use mobil1. Any idea what the best one for my car?

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hello,

today I check oxygen sensor and according to the information I found there is a heater circuit between two white wires and the resistance should be about 15 ohm. I wasn't able to measure this resistance because there must be open circuit somwhere inside the sensor - that is why the oxygen sensor wasn't working correctly (faulty code P0135 appeared).

So I am now looking for the cheapest Bosch ox sensor no. 0 258 006 695 (is this no correct for our engines?). Currently I found this sensor for about 60 pounds. Will order it on Monday.

Anyway, you think the cleaner can solve the problem? I am not sure ... but if you have any news pls revert.

best regards

Artur

Hello again ,

Update: The cleaner has not worked! £16 wasted. :(

I think you are on the 'business end' of the problem there mate with the sensor. I haven't found a Bosch one for any less than £80, where did you find thid sensor mate? I did get a quote for a generic Oxygen sensor for £52 and Cat for £42.

I also read somehwere that nothing other than Bosch works as well on these cars so should i just go for a Bosch one?

Bil

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hi everyone,

I have a 2010 toyota verso 1.6 vvti petrol and i want to change the engine oil but i prefer to use mobil1. Any idea what the best one for my car?

Hi mate,

I'm quite new to toyota so I really couldn't help you but i'm sure theres a thread somewhere which holds info and reviews by members who have tried and tested.

hope this helps.

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Hello again ,

Update: The cleaner has not worked! £16 wasted. :(

I think you are on the 'business end' of the problem there mate with the sensor. I haven't found a Bosch one for any less than £80, where did you find thid sensor mate? I did get a quote for a generic Oxygen sensor for £52 and Cat for £42.

I also read somehwere that nothing other than Bosch works as well on these cars so should i just go for a BOSCH one?

Bil

hello Bil,

I will get oxygen sensor in two days and then will replace. Will see if it helps :g:

I also read that cheaper universal ox sensors don't want to work fine so I suggest You to buy Bosch, exactly the same ref no that You have in your car.

I found this sensor here:

http://www.arwit.pl/...1&towkod=&tab=1

it is about 60 pounds but you know, the shipment would be much more expensive to UK so I guess 80pounds in UK will be almost the same price :icon14:

When I replace this sensor will come back here to write about results.

best regards

Artur

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Pretty sure that Toyota recommend 0W-20 oil - they do for the 1.33 and 1.6 Auris (the 1.6 would be the same engine as the Verso). Mobil do a recommendation service on their website - http://www.mobil.co...._which-oil.aspx - and for the Verso comes out to 0W-20.

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Pretty sure that Toyota recommend 0W-20 oil

hello

I heard that oils 0W-20 or 0W-30 (HTHS<3,5) can save some fuel but if You want to have better engine protection You should use 0W-40 or 5W-40 because these oils have HTHS>3,5.

I use Castrol 5W-40 in my corolla 1.4 vvt-i.

best regards

Artur

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Hello again ,

Update: The cleaner has not worked! £16 wasted. :(

I think you are on the 'business end' of the problem there mate with the sensor. I haven't found a Bosch one for any less than £80, where did you find thid sensor mate? I did get a quote for a generic Oxygen sensor for £52 and Cat for £42.

I also read somehwere that nothing other than Bosch works as well on these cars so should i just go for a BOSCH one?

Bil

hello Bil,

I will get oxygen sensor in two days and then will replace. Will see if it helps :g:

I also read that cheaper universal ox sensors don't want to work fine so I suggest You to buy Bosch, exactly the same ref no that You have in your car.

I found this sensor here:

http://www.arwit.pl/...1&towkod=&tab=1

it is about 60 pounds but you know, the shipment would be much more expensive to UK so I guess 80pounds in UK will be almost the same price :icon14:

When I replace this sensor will come back here to write about results.

best regards

Artur

Update:

Well, Decided to buy a Bosch Pre Cat Lambda Sensor from my local Parts shop yesterday, cost £64 which i was quite impressed with. I thought the Cat had gone so bought a CAT aswell but whilst getting the Sensor fitted @ the mechanics I was advised that my Cat was actually in good condition and the 'mesh' had not 'collapsed' inside.

Really pleased with that as it saved me a few bob to get that sorted aswell.

the mechanic was someone i knew a little but he really helped me and talked about the Coil Packs colapsing ont hese aswell but he happens tohave some second hand ones that will fit mine; but we will take that route if it comes to that.

So..fitted Lambda sensor on and car seems FIXED! (touch wood). No more jerking or 'pullbacks' and mpg seeems good, car runs smooth throughout the rev range and slower speeds has become more comfortable (car used to pull back alot during slower speeds/lower revs)

So hopefully Artur matey, yours should feel the same when you fit this part on.

All the best.

By the way, is there any way of finding out if there is problem wit a specific coil pack? just in case mine gets knackered again.

my Revs are stable but there is an ever-so-slight twitch every so often. Any ideas what it could be or lead to?

Thanks all

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...By the way, is there any way of finding out if there is problem wit a specific coil pack? just in case mine gets knackered again.

my Revs are stable but there is an ever-so-slight twitch every so often. Any ideas what it could be or lead to?

Thanks all

hello Bil,

I am very glad to here that your car is fixed now! :drunk: I hope mine will be too (tomorrow).

Anyway, If you fell that your engine twitch it is probably coil pack problem. First check if there is a carbon path inside the coil (rubber) wich could allow the spark goes outside the spark plug . If there isn't, it can be a problem with coil condition.

You can check which of coils is in bad condition by unplugging one each time and if there is no changing in engines work it means this coil is damaged. If You unplug a coil and You hear the engine is working worse it means this coil is ok.

I will come back soon to write about my results after changing lambda sensor.

best regards

Artur

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...By the way, is there any way of finding out if there is problem wit a specific coil pack? just in case mine gets knackered again.

my Revs are stable but there is an ever-so-slight twitch every so often. Any ideas what it could be or lead to?

Thanks all

hello Bil,

I am very glad to here that your car is fixed now! :drunk: I hope mine will be too (tomorrow).

Anyway, If you fell that your engine twitch it is probably coil pack problem. First check if there is a carbon path inside the coil (rubber) wich could allow the spark goes outside the spark plug . If there isn't, it can be a problem with coil condition.

You can check which of coils is in bad condition by unplugging one each time and if there is no changing in engines work it means this coil is damaged. If You unplug a coil and You hear the engine is working worse it means this coil is ok.

I will come back soon to write about my results after changing lambda sensor.

best regards

Artur

Thanks for your advice matey,

your solution/method sounds very logical so i will try that when i haave abit of time on hands.

Can I remove each coil (one at a time) whilst the engine is RUNNING? i think that is what your email is stating but i just wanted to make sure.

Can i clean out the metal conductors with say electrical components cleaning spray? would that improve it slightly?

could it be the MAF sensor again? i have taken it out on 2 occasions and cleaned it with an electronic spray cleaner so it should be woking fine.

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"Pretty sure that Toyota recommend 0W-20 oil - they do for the 1.33 and 1.6 Auris (the 1.6 would be the same engine as the Verso). Mobil do a recommendation service on their website - http://www.mobil.co...._which-oil.aspx - and for the Verso comes out to 0W-20."

"I heard that oils 0W-20 or 0W-30 (HTHS<3,5) can save some fuel but if You want to have better engine protection You should use 0W-40 or 5W-40 because these oils have HTHS>3,5.

I use Castrol 5W-40 in my corolla 1.4 vvt-i."

In the Auris Owners manual it specifically states: ' SAE 0W-20 oil is filled into your Toyota vehicle at manufacturing, and is the best choice for fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 0W-20 is not available, 5W-30 may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change."

The 1.4 vvt-i engine is an older design so is more suited to having an oil like 5W-40.

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Can I remove each coil (one at a time) whilst the engine is RUNNING? i think that is what your email is stating but i just wanted to make sure.

Can i clean out the metal conductors with say electrical components cleaning spray? would that improve it slightly?

could it be the MAF sensor again? i have taken it out on 2 occasions and cleaned it with an electronic spray cleaner so it should be woking fine.

hello,

yes you can remove coil when the engine is working and I think you can clean metal conductors but first check if it is necessary to do that. I guess no.

Do you think your MAF sensor would be dirty again? If you do not check you will never know. You do not need much time to check it, just 2 screws. If you decide to clean it remember not to keep it upside down for a long time because cleaning spray may get inside and destroy electronic parts.

I have just received lambda sensor and will replace tomorrow in the morning. Actually I was ecpecting to get the parcel earlier... and wanted to repair my car today but now I just can't go to my garage.

best regards

Artur

p.s. can you write exactly what your mechanic told you about collapsing coils in corollas?

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I have read all these feeds about your problem its better than a book, keep us informed cannot wait for the Happy ending?. Hope it really does work for you.

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I have read all these feeds about your problem its better than a book, keep us informed cannot wait for the Happy ending?. Hope it really does work for you.

Actually it doesn't work :bangin: new lambda sensor has been installed but problem still exists. Check engine is off because heater circuit in new lambda sensor is ok. I think I have a case which I was reading about that changing oxygen sensor didn't help to solve the problem.

I really hope to find solution ... but sooner than later.

best regards

Artur

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I know most people avoid taking their cars to main dealers because of the ridiculous prices they charge, but sometimes It really is worth it in the end, after replacing so many parts and running up a huge bill to still be in the same predicament as when you first started, it could be much cheaper in the end to let these people have a look at it. Worth a try!

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I paid £800 for my 2001 corolla GS 1.6 VVTi in May 2012 and it had 77000 on clocks, touch wood running as new, cannot fault it accept for the slapping wipers. May be better to spend money getting another car?????

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I have read all these feeds about your problem its better than a book, keep us informed cannot wait for the Happy ending?. Hope it really does work for you.

Actually it doesn't work :bangin: new lambda sensor has been installed but problem still exists. Check engine is off because heater circuit in new lambda sensor is ok. I think I have a case which I was reading about that changing oxygen sensor didn't help to solve the problem.

I really hope to find solution ... but sooner than later.

best regards

Artur

Sorry to hear that mate, i'm actually questioning mine now; although It ihas been working much much better without the 'pullback' i cant help but think the problem may return.

Another thing i noticed was that the revs (once warmed up) stay around 7/800 revs but it slightly twitches...i am dreading it could be the faulty coil packs the mechanic mentioned.

As for what the mechanic said, well he said that he had a corolla that basically 'pulled back' whilst driving and then it 'dies' out of the blue which means it's un-driveable until you get the faulty coilspack(s) sorted.

I have not fully deemd as my car as OK, because when the exhaust was moved around and the CAT was checked-the soldering had come loose on the joint of the exhaust where the backbox pipe was joined up-so now it's blowing and worser than lat time due to the work carried out on the sensor/CAT. So back to the workshop again today for fixing that up (again) which will be the 3rd time.

I'm beginning to lose faith...almost 3 moths of purchase and headache all the way.

i still have a little belief that there could be light at the end of the tunnel-nce fixed properly it might turn out to be the brilliant and ultra-reliable car that Toyota's are meant to be.

I haev a VW GOLF GT TDI 130 and that has never given me this much trouble in the past 5 years (almost)....you can't have it all as the saying goes. :disgust:

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Hello,

I have spoken to some people and they told me it can be a problem with coils (rupture inside the coil pack). To check this I would have to bay at least one new coil and then install it in first cylinder, then in the second etc. This would show which of the coils is damaged. But there is one problem :disgust: original denso coils are very expensive and nobody is sure if coils are the real problem (in this case I would have one additional coil). The others producers like FACET or SKV Germany are not recommended at all.

Anyway, I reduced spark gap to 0,7 mm and I can confirm that I can still fell the pullback but weaker.

So it seems if I do not buy this coil I will never known what causes the problem.

best regards

Artur

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Hello,

I have spoken to some people and they told me it can be a problem with coils (rupture inside the coil pack). To check this I would have to bay at least one new coil and then install it in first cylinder, then in the second etc. This would show which of the coils is damaged. But there is one problem :disgust: original denso coils are very expensive and nobody is sure if coils are the real problem (in this case I would have one additional coil). The others producers like FACET or SKV Germany are not recommended at all.

Anyway, I reduced spark gap to 0,7 mm and I can confirm that I can still fell the pullback but weaker.

So it seems if I do not buy this coil I will never known what causes the problem.

best regards

Artur

I truly hope you get yours sorted out my friend, It really is a pain in the neck driving around in a car that doesn't drive/sound/feel healthy.

I spent a further £35 on my car getting the exhaust (YES Exhaust again this time) fully fitted by an exhaust speacialist company down my end. The Exhaust I was told had been 'molested' by several mechanics (2 just whilst in my ownership!) and certain clamps were missing and it wasn't installed and tightened on different places. There was also two leaks on the exhaust.

The kind mechanic had quoted me £35 after a quick inspection but later mentioned had he known the extent of the actual job I would have been charged £60. Being of the nature he was (perfectionist) he took the whole thing of and reinstalled.

Now: no erratic idleing, all GONE! car pulls much mucg better and smoother and i am seeing better mpg aswell albeit local driving.

For me it was the Sensor mate but for others it can be the coil-packs. Having done the Disgnostics I would have thought you would have had an accurate diagnosis but I was told by my mechanic that Coil packs don't always flag up on diiagnostic checks.

keep me updated buddy. Im sure you can get hold off one on eBay for £20 or so I found when i was looking around for mine. Not brand new but if its fully working then you can use it for testing?

Regards

Bil

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I truly hope you get yours sorted out my friend, It really is a pain in the neck driving around in a car that doesn't drive/sound/feel healthy.

I spent a further £35 on my car getting the exhaust (YES Exhaust again this time) fully fitted by an exhaust speacialist company down my end. The Exhaust I was told had been 'molested' by several mechanics (2 just whilst in my ownership!) and certain clamps were missing and it wasn't installed and tightened on different places. There was also two leaks on the exhaust.

The kind mechanic had quoted me £35 after a quick inspection but later mentioned had he known the extent of the actual job I would have been charged £60. Being of the nature he was (perfectionist) he took the whole thing of and reinstalled.

Now: no erratic idleing, all GONE! car pulls much mucg better and smoother and i am seeing better mpg aswell albeit local driving.

For me it was the Sensor mate but for others it can be the coil-packs. Having done the Disgnostics I would have thought you would have had an accurate diagnosis but I was told by my mechanic that Coil packs don't always flag up on diiagnostic checks.

keep me updated buddy. Im sure you can get hold off one on ebay for £20 or so I found when i was looking around for mine. Not brand new but if its fully working then you can use it for testing?

Regards

Bil

Bil you are lucky guy! You spent some maney but the car is fixed now. It's great, isn't it?

I was also thinking about used coil pack but you know, it is a kind of lottery. You can get good or bad coil pack... but I think will take a chance.

So I am now looking for the right coil pack for my car and will order it.

I will inform You soon about progress in this matter.

best regards

Artur

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  • 2 weeks later...

I truly hope you get yours sorted out my friend, It really is a pain in the neck driving around in a car that doesn't drive/sound/feel healthy.

I spent a further £35 on my car getting the exhaust (YES Exhaust again this time) fully fitted by an exhaust speacialist company down my end. The Exhaust I was told had been 'molested' by several mechanics (2 just whilst in my ownership!) and certain clamps were missing and it wasn't installed and tightened on different places. There was also two leaks on the exhaust.

The kind mechanic had quoted me £35 after a quick inspection but later mentioned had he known the extent of the actual job I would have been charged £60. Being of the nature he was (perfectionist) he took the whole thing of and reinstalled.

Now: no erratic idleing, all GONE! car pulls much mucg better and smoother and i am seeing better mpg aswell albeit local driving.

For me it was the Sensor mate but for others it can be the coil-packs. Having done the Disgnostics I would have thought you would have had an accurate diagnosis but I was told by my mechanic that Coil packs don't always flag up on diiagnostic checks.

keep me updated buddy. Im sure you can get hold off one on ebay for £20 or so I found when i was looking around for mine. Not brand new but if its fully working then you can use it for testing?

Regards

Bil

Bil you are lucky guy! You spent some maney but the car is fixed now. It's great, isn't it?

I was also thinking about used coil pack but you know, it is a kind of lottery. You can get good or bad coil pack... but I think will take a chance.

So I am now looking for the right coil pack for my car and will order it.

I will inform You soon about progress in this matter.

best regards

Artur

Hey Artur mate,

Did you manage to fix the issues with your car?

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