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Starting Problems 2.0 D4D

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Hi

My auris 2.0d4d has started having problems on a cold start. At the last cold snap car refused to start. I called the aa out and they got it going, accompanied by a puff of blueish/grey smoke. Dealer checked battery and determined glow plugs to be at fault. Replaced under extended warranty. Car been ok for a few weeks until last night, started on 3rd attempt and same again this morning, again accompanied with blueish/grey smoke that stops once car is running. Warm starts ok, Oil levels good, pulling ok and getting usual fuel consumption. Car booked in on Weds for 50k service. Any ideas what's causing this? None of my previous diesels have done this. Thanks, Gareth.

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Apologies for this question, because you do state "previous diesels". You are waiting until the glow plug indicator is going out before attempting to start? It does remain lit longer as the temperature drops.

Have you tried a double or even treble glow plug cycle then attempt a start? This has been needed in a couple of past Diesels I've owned although it shouldn't be necessary if the glow plugs or their control are working properly. Even if it were only one faulty glow plug I would still expect the engine to start without that one heating up.

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Hi. I've had 2 multijet fiat engines. Even a few years ago when we had -10 temperatures the fired with first run of glow plugs. I get my fuel from the local shell garage. It just seems odd to me. Car started fine today at-2, no smoke and fired 1st time.

Cheers

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From my previous experiences cold start issues on the AD series engines are usually caused by faulty/failing suction control valves. There is a TSB regarding poor startability which describes how to test the valves and modified scv's are available along with a software update to cure these issues. Your local Toyota dealer should be able to assist.

Devon

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Hi,

I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual.

P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-)

Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030)

After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115.

I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG..

After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK.

Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second.

post-71933-0-02703800-1360097192_thumb.j

post-71933-0-24245600-1360098588_thumb.j

post-71933-0-39682200-1360098606_thumb.j

post-71933-0-26880700-1360098621_thumb.j

post-71933-0-36355800-1360098652_thumb.j

DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf

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From my previous experiences cold start issues on the AD series engines are usually caused by faulty/failing suction control valves. There is a TSB regarding poor startability which describes how to test the valves and modified scv's are available along with a software update to cure these issues. Your local Toyota dealer should be able to assist.

Devon

Might be a bit of a stupid question but is there a charge for the software reflash from Toyota?

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it is up to your dealer, if you are under warranty then no but otherwise you would normally be charged.

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Hi ,

I have same problem,in addition car won't start on cold weather but when I finally start my engine after struggle for 20min. or so everitying is working properly,and there is no problem.

Tnx for the info.

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Forgive me for bringing up an old thread but....

it is up to your dealer, if you are under warranty then no but otherwise you would normally be charged.

I've not spoken to them, but I doubt it is covered. The car is a 57 plate and on its 3rd owner from new. In addition its been Cat C repaired. This makes me doubt Toyota will be willing to cover SCV work.

I've noticed that the starting problem is much worse in winter than it is in summer, and my instinct is that it is definitely the SCV as opposed to a leaking injector which is what the mechanic thinks it might be. I've had a look around at SCVs on ebay and they seem quite pricey so I was wondering whether it is an easier option to take out the existing valve and give it a good clean out. How simple is it to get into the nooks and crannies of the valve?

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Well, decided to have a crack at the SCV yesterday evening. Quite easy to take off (engine was warm) without having to remove anything first. Took the valve out and it didn't look dirty or sticky. Used up what I had left of the brake cleaner I bought when I cleaned up the EGR valve and let that dry, then gave it a good few shots of WD40, making sure the valve opened and closed to ensure it got into all the spaces. Put it back together and today morning fired up on a cold engine with no issues. Saved myself £260 on a new valve :driving: .

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Hello all.

I am facing the same problem the past two days. Cannot get the engine to start. I checked and tested the glow plugs. Resistance is still 1.4 ohm - so all good. Cleaned them. Changed the battery. Still no start this morning,

My question to you all is, how long does the glow plug light on the dash stay on. Mine goes off within a second. I have disconnected the glow plug circuit from the wiring loom and still the glow plug light on the dash went off in a second - i would have thought it won't register that it is warming the glow plugs?

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Well, decided to have a crack at the SCV yesterday evening. Quite easy to take off (engine was warm) without having to really replaceove anything first. Took the valve out and it didn't look dirty or sticky. Used up what I had left of the brake cleaner I bought when I cleaned up the EGR valve and let that dry, then gave it a good few shots of WD40, making sure the valve opened and closed to ensure it got into all the spaces. Put it back together and today morning fired up on a cold engine with no issues. Saved myself £260 on a new valve :driving: .

I too have had this problem since i bought the car in 2008. So i decided to give rufnek2kx's solution a go. If it is indeed te scv that is the problem i will eventually replace it with a new one.

I followed his procedure and this morning the car started first time instantly. Instead of the 3-5 attempts it usually takes in this temperature.

The only thing i Will add if you do this, is be very careful with the o-rings. If you damage or nick them then you'll most definitely have a fuel leak.

Thanks rufnek2kx

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Well, decided to have a crack at the SCV yesterday evening. Quite easy to take off (engine was warm) without having to really replaceove anything first. Took the valve out and it didn't look dirty or sticky. Used up what I had left of the brake cleaner I bought when I cleaned up the EGR valve and let that dry, then gave it a good few shots of WD40, making sure the valve opened and closed to ensure it got into all the spaces. Put it back together and today morning fired up on a cold engine with no issues. Saved myself £260 on a new valve :driving: .

I too have had this problem since i bought the car in 2008. So i decided to give rufnek2kx's solution a go. If it is indeed te scv that is the problem i will eventually replace it with a new one.

I followed his procedure and this morning the car started first time instantly. Instead of the 3-5 attempts it usually takes in this temperature.

The only thing i Will add if you do this, is be very careful with the o-rings. If you damage or nick them then you'll most definitely have a fuel leak.

Thanks rufnek2kx

Great to hear that its worked for you. With mine the problem keeps returning after a month or so. I took it out again last weekend for a clean up which went horribly wrong. The gasket fell down near the clutch somewhere, never to be seen again. I also think I must have nicked the small O ring as a piece of it got ripped :(.

Oh well, guess I'll have to get a new SCV anyway.

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Hi,

After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115.

I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG..

After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK.

Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second.

Can anyone confirm what this process does? My thinking is that this gets the ECU to 'read' the new SCV thats been put in. Can't this also be done by disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU and get it to relearn?

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Hi,

I had the same problem, I changed the fuel filter head, it went back to normal for about 3 days then the problem started again so back to the garage and he recommended to change the diesel and after about a week it started first time and has since even been left out in the frost. So that worked for me best of luck

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From my previous experiences cold start issues on the AD series engines are usually caused by faulty/failing suction control valves. There is a TSB regarding poor startability which describes how to test the valves and modified scv's are available along with a software update to cure these issues. Your local Toyota dealer should be able to assist.

Devon

Hi,

I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual.

P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-)

Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030)

After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115.

I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG..

After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK.

Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second.

Well I've taken the plunge and decided to book my car in on 24th to have this valve changed. Thanks guys for the info and advice. I will let you know if it fixes my starting problem or if I've just given Mr T. £300 of my hard earn cash....

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Well i to have a crack at the SCV yesterday evening. Quite easy to take off (engine was warm) without having to remove anything first. Took the valve out and it didn't look dirty or sticky. Used up what I had left of the brake cleaner I bought when I cleaned up the EGR valve and let that dry, then gave it a good few shots of WD40, making sure the valve opened and closed to ensure it got into all the spaces. Put it back together and today morning fired up on a cold engine with no issues. Saved myself £260 on a new valve :driving: .

P. S. I did try this and it only worked very briefly.. Not really a permanent fix... Thanks again for the info rufnek2kx.

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Well nice new scv fitted.. Now all I need are some frosty mornings to test it out...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

post-64213-139568995903_thumb.jpg

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Well nice new scv fitted.. Now all I need are some frosty mornings to test it out...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

Best get your car booked into Toyota as there is updated ECU software to be installed along with the modified valve, otherwise the valve may not operate well for long, you will need minimum software version 302v0000

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Thanks, but I had the ecu update done at the same time..... It was Toyota who fitted it.....

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

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Best get your car booked into Toyota as there is updated ECU software to be installed along with the modified valve, otherwise the valve may not operate well for long, you will need minimum software version 302v0000

I don't know if my SCV is modified or not. How to recognize it?

In Techstream/ Health Check Results I see Engine and ECT- Calibration 30554100. Is this software version?

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If it looks like the one on the right it's been modified...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

post-64213-139569652681_thumb.jpg

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