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Aurissimo

Dpf Failing After 160K...

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Now I have new DPF. I bought my Auris two months ago from a local Hyndai dealer. Dealer was responsible for replace the DPF, also local Toyota dealer and national Toyota marketing&sales company compensate costs.

Before I bought my Auris, the local Toyota dealer had replace engine (AD engine problems...) and they have not done all required (EG-0061T-0712) inspections (DPF, main fuel injectors, EGR and 5. injector), during replacement. That is the reason, why they also compensate the costs. I hope, my DPF problems are now history

Main thing is, I get new DPF for free!

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Excellent result Auristi, I guess the fact the DPF cleaning failed to sort it points to the blocked differential pressure pipes...

I am still driving my car , no issue, other than engine check light on... but i have ordered, the replacement pipes, gaskets and other bits to do the job , I am going to try and do the job myself with a mate . (Save me between 300 - 600 quid depending if i took it to a garage or dealer...)

I will

Remove inlet manifold and clean ( Toyota Diagnosis indicated MAF level is low and inspection shows a greater than 3mm covering of particulate matter)

EGR has already been cleaner ( found to be a tiny bit open, when supposed to be fully closed.)

Remove DPF, ( I will try and clean it/reverse flush to push crud out from inlet side)

Replace Pressure pipes

Refit, reset error codes and see what happens, if problem still there , then I guess i have no option to replace the DPF as the core might be clogged beyond repair... :blowup:

but as i say i have faith... the beast still bothers the big boys on the motorway... :ph34r: and no sign of givin in...

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After 120 km I get fault code P2002 again! They had replace the DPF, but I have still the same problem with my Auris.

Now they have make troubleshooting again and find out, the pressure differential sensor was faulty. I have a new DPF, but still sensor show 1,5 pressure ratio! (pressure ratio 1,5=blocked, it should be 0,3)

Aurissimo, have they test your pressure differential sensor? In my case was quite tricky, sometime it show correct ratio and suddently it goes mad.

If you have check engine light on and fault code P2002, the system try to regenerate the DPF by using 5. injector (if the pressure differential sensor is faulty)

So, all that time, I had a faulty pressure differential sensor, not a DPF!

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OK this sounds like :

They only replaced the DPF and kept the old pipes. But this means they used a old version of the DPF or an aftermarket part?

There is a NEW DPF introduced into production since June 2007 (including new Pipes)

for older DPFS the service repair is to replace the the pipes with new ones and an adaptor ( diameter of new pipes are larger to stop clogging) ,

I have had the Toyota Dealer do the full diagnostic check on my car according to tech bulletin EG-0170T-0311-EN

DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON

Some customers may complain that the check engine light (MIL) comes on.

The associated Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is P2002.

PRODUCTION CHANGE

Countermeasure 1: The vacuum pipe connection ("Pipe, No.1") with the "Converter Sub-assembly, exhaust

manifold" has been improved to enhance the flow of exhaust gas in the converter.

Additionally, newly designed vacuum transmitting pipe connection ("Pipe, No.1") +

an adapter are available as service part

Countermeasure 2: New Injector Step2 has been applied for solenoid injectors (only for DPF version)

Countermeasure 3: Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector improved (See TSB EG-0050T-1008)

Field fix1: EGR Valve design has been changed on service parts to prevent carbon deposit.

Field fix2: Software improvement. In case of injector replacement the resetting time of injector learning values

is reduced to 2 minutes.

Steps of diagnosis ( on my car)

1. Check DPF Catalytic Converter status with IT2 (intelligent tester 2)

"DPF BLOCK"

2 Check Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector and Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector port.

OK , result less than 1.4

3 Check whether the engine ECU has the latest calibration ID

OK , latest level calibration records

4 Inspect EGR Valve Operation. ( mine is new at 110k)

Slightly open, so dealer removed and cleaned , then EGR was OK.

5 Check for the amount of carbon deposits.

If carbon deposit thickness in inlet manifold (check when EGR is removed ) is more than 3 mm then requires cleaning

My car has more than 3 mm ( This will affect the MAF ratio later on i think)

>>> this weekend i am removing it and cleaning it.

6 Check MAF values ( at 3000rpm, no load, and EGR open)

For my car and engine 2AD-FHV is supposed to be 49 to 60 g/s

My reading was 41 apparently , (so the manifold being covered by 3 mm might be restricting the engine )

7 Check DPF/DPNR pipes and hoses

Check if there is exhaust gas pulsation from both vacuum hoses while the engine is idling.

My car HAD NO PULSATIONS, --> bulletin says 1) Replace only pipes and adaptor.

(No need to replace DPF/DPNR)

8 Check Injectors (only for AD-FTV with DPF-solenoid injectors)

My car is FHV not FTV

9 Check DPF/DPNR Catalytic Converter

My car Gets the DPF PM BLOCK message

Then runs the Regeneration

9. B) Perform the regeneration active test

1. Remove Differential Pressure Hoses from Diff. Pressure Sensor

2. Insert an M8 bolt to both Differential Pressure Hoses and install clamps. ( basically block the pipes)

3. Delete DTC P2002

4. Perform PM regeneration with IT2. ( I think this one ignores the pressure sensor and runs irrespective of pressure sensor signal)

==> At this point my DPF regenerates fine, gets up to temperature (+600deg C) very quickly and gets an OK result

5 After finishing PM regeneration, reinstall the hoses to the diff press sensor

6. Perform another PM regeneration again, ideally at constant speed between 80 and 100 km/h. Record

snapshot with IT2 during regeneration to check exhaust.

===> At this point my DPF does not regenerate, does not get up to temperature quickly ( around 300deg c), triggers the error code and cuts out the regen cycle.

based on this results there is a final calculation to decide if the DPF is fully clogged, but to do it you need to replace the pipes and check.

So for me my next stage is replace the pipes ( requires removing the DPF) and clean the inlet manifold. At the same time i will try and flush the DPF with some DPF treatment like you had tried ( Whilst it is out of the car I might as well try it...)

Toyota quote 3.5 hours to remove DPF so I am giving myself a full day ( just in case) .

After that try it out and see if error comes back or not... if it does then I will take back to Toyota ask them to run the last 2 regen cycles and finalise the last stage of the diagnostic and see if it is in fact the DPF... :bored:

If it does not come back , then HAPPY DAYS, and another 100000 miles of motoring ... :driving:

and I have saved myself a fair amount of money on the proposed replacement of the DPF... :clap:

Very long winded process, but i rather get it done "by-the-book" .

More information early next week after I attempted the repair...

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They also replace the pipes. When I get a fault code P2002 the pressure ratio was 1,5 and with the new pressure differential sensor, pressure ratio was 0,3. So, in my case, the sensor was faulty.

After the sensor replacement, there is no any problem.

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Ahh! ok understood! :thumbsup:

I will bear that in mind... if this does not solve it.

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RIGHT ! :clap:

Happy Days... 2.5 weeks following the repair, and putting around 1500 miles, and no fault has come back.

So I can categorically say the repair was successful.

The repair consisted of;

1. Removing DPF - Admit this was a B@st@rd of a job, and required me and a mate with a ramp... and a good 7 hours work... (blame it on us being un-experienced...)

2. Sealed inlet and poured a bottle of this stuff.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Protec-Diesel-Particle-Filter-Flushing-Liquid-DPF-Cleaner-1L-TUV-Apvd-Saab-/130657336978?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item1e6bc8be92

3. Sealed both ends , and gave it a good shake and turn it up and down for an hour or so...

4. REVERSE FLUSHED the DPF with jet wash ( All the crud came out the INLET SIDE !) , then dried (Gas heater and Hair Drier job...)

5. Replaced old Differential pressure pipes

6. Removed EGR and Manifold and cleaned (Manifold was caked in Carbon! EGR had been cleaned by delaer during diagnosis...)

7. Refitted everything,

Outcome? it FLIES!, difference is amazing, I thought my car was running fine before, but the difference it has made by cleaning up the manifold and DPF is unbelievable. The winter tyres I have fitted cannot keep up with the Torque of the engine... !

However fuel consumption has gone up... I think it is because it can breathe more easily, and so it has to re-learn the new engine running conditions... ( I am going to take it to Toyota and have a full reset and error code deletions carried out, to get it to reset to default engine running , and forget the old running conditions... )

- I think the DPF stuff I have been pouring into fuel did not help in this instance. As the #1 pipe was properly blocked.

But NOW that is it all clean, and pipes unblocked, I think the DPF cleaner additive is a good idea to extend the life of this high mileage engine...

- The differential pressure pipes where the reason for the error code, which Toyota recognise as a design flaw , as they have provided an improved design. (I poked a wire down the tube and could not unblock them easily... took a few "stabs")

- 160k 80% of it on motorways, whilst the DPF will gradually fill with deposits etc... was not the root cause of the error (unlike what Mr Toyota Dealer tried to convince of... :nono: ) . So in a way it proves that DPF should not fail during the life of the vehicle, so long as it can regenerate at regular intervals..., unless you are a severe stop start, short journey type driver...

- Not sure if this would work, but My EGR failed at 110k and DPF pipes at 160k so taking that relationship, whether you guys can use the same extrapolation for your mileage, e.g. if you had an EGR failed at 55k could you expect your error code P2002 to trigger around 80k ? something to consider , but i recognise it does not take into account driving styles, fuels, and other environment/usage variables...

- From 100k it might be worth considering cleaning not only the EGR but the manifold to improve the Air flow. ( I reckon under an hour labour)

-Not sure the DPF cleaning fluid did much, I think the biggest benefit was REVERSE flushing with a jet wash

_ Would not advise anyone to do the DPF removal ( get some one who knows how to do these jobs... Can be done in 3.5 hours allegedly, we took ages... )

Anyway total cost of repair... 70 quid for new pipes and gaskets for parts removed...25 quid for fluid to clean DPF plus a few beers to a mate with access to a ramp , ah yes plus 250 quid for the diagnosis by Toyota to tell me the pipes were blocked ( but i needed to replace the DPF... :nono::boxed: )

If you were to pay a mechanic to do the DPF clean and Manifold replacements, my mate reckons that would be a quote for 6-7 hours labour charge, of a garage specialised on exhaust etc...

Compared to the 1800 quid toyota wanted to charge to replace the DPF...

hope this serves for future use to anyone who is in the same situation as I was a few weeks back...

HAPPY DAYS

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Glad something good has come out of this - let's hope you're running trouble-free for ages now. :)

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I have the same problem on my 2005 avensis DCAT, but it seems to have a limp mode after the lights come on the dash board. I hope I have the same problem as you....the pipes from the pressure differential sensor. :death:

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When my EGR failed at 100k I got the limp home mode,

the engine light on an no problem with driveability was the dpf...

It might be the egr and this is only and hours labour ... Fingers cross...

As for my AURIS , sold it at 182000 last month and still going strong and flying... But company car forced the sale.. I was up for running it till 250000 !!!

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I have the limp mode + vsc and trc light on, and check engine....and the faulty code P2002 = Particulate Trap Effieciency Below Threshold (Bank1

Do you have a DIY with replacing those pipes? :drunk:

When you had problem with the EGR, there wasn't vsc, trc or check engine lights on the dashboard, and it was just the limp mode? The P2002 fault code appear when the EGR it's faulty?

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well after having issues with my auris's erg valve causing limp home mode every couple of 1000 miles i have sold up and bought my self a mini cooper s back to the petrol side ;) and never looking back and I'm strangely getting more mpg in the mini than the auris got its been a pleasure fellas and thanks for all the help

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Adam, when your car it was in limp mode, do you had the trc , vsc, check engine lights on? what fault code it was?

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It appears to be the norm for the trc and vsc lights to come on with toyota's when a fault occurs which may affect the car's ability to utilise these systems if required therefore the ECU disables them altogether.

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when mine went I'm to limp mode i used to get a p0400 code which is an egr fault all i used to do was disconnect the batt for 10 secs reconnect and all was well and it went for another couple of thousand miles before it did it again

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P2002 can mean a lot

in no particular order:

- Diesel fuel filter clogged

- Check Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector and Exhaust Fuel Addition Injector port

- Check whether the engine ECU has the latest calibration ID

- Inspect EGR Valve Operation incl carbon deposits

- Check MAF values

- Check DPF/DPNR pipes and hoses (Differential pressure sensor pipes and hoses for blockages)

- Check DPF/DPNR Catalytic Converter

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I had been to the local Toyota dealer and they recomanded me to buy a new DPF. :ermm:

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I'm done the same thing, I so nervous because I can't go to a trip with this car. Limp mode Rulezz :giljotiini: . I switch off the ignition, then restart the car, and it goes for another 10 miles and after that limp mode again... :giljotiini: . In the city there is no problem. No lights, no limp mode. I can do 100000 miles with no problems. The hell come's on the motorway.

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when was the last time the diesel fuel filter was changed? have you checked the egr for carbon deposits?

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Last year in august. I haven't checked the EGR because it's stuck there and can't be removed. A rusty nut. But the EGR fault it's not the P2002 right? How cand I check those pipes from the pressure sensor to see if they are in good shape?

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(a) Disconnect both differential pressure hoses (both upstream and downstream) on the differential pressure sensor side.

b.)Start the engine.
(c.) Check if there is exhaust gas pulsation from both vacuum hoses while the engine is idling.
Exhaust gas pulsation exists - no fault
No exhaust gas pulsation -
1) Replace only pipes and adaptor. (No need to replace DPF/DPNR)
2) Check differential pressure sensor according to repair manual.
3) Perform PM regeneration with IT2
4) Check black smoke.
  • Like 1

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