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D4D Cuts Out When Cold.

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Hi everybody, first post here, but have been lurcking for a while trying to solve my problem.

I have a 2005 D4D Corolla with 105k Km that started cutting out about 4 months ago.

Every morning when it is cold it will start normally and drive about 2 miles, to within 100m and 'hiccup'. The management light comes on and the accelerator pedal is inoperative.

This is not a 'noticeable' hiccup. You pull over and turn the ignition off and immediately restart car and everything fine, except management light on for the following 2 starts.

Local garage plugged it in and the fault code comes back as 'fuel low pressure' on the common rail. I will have to get the code from the garage if that will help

Air temperature is irrelevant, happens from -5 to +10.

engine temp just starting to move. (is this a clue? Is there a change in the engine management?)

RPM or gear make no difference, but will happen more often when changing gear.

Fuel filter changed, old one was clean

After this the car runs OK. However the fault is becoming more often and what started as a single hiccup may now happen a few times.

I have trawled this forum and the net and ended up being more confused.

Anybody any ideas?

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There are a few ways to go about this one. If it is a problem with the pressure in the fuel rail then there are a few ideas:

1. The signal being sent to the ECU from the fuel pressure sensor at the fuel rail is faulty and the sensor needs testing/replacing.

2. The fuel pressure from the pump is fine but the fuel pressure regulator has failed and isn't adjusting fuel pressure correctly. This could also be the ECU not managing fuel pressure correctly because of a faulty pressure sensor, so be aware that the sensor may be sending duff signals and the ECU will then make a duff judgement and make it appear as if the pressure regulator has failed.

3. The fuel pressure from the pump is low, meaning the pump has taken in something nasty or maybe it has been run dry (although ECU should shut it down before it runs dry to save you heap of cash). If the pump is the problem then you have now entered a world of insane expense.

Test the sensor to see if it sends the correct signals. Test the regulator for correct operation and check the actual pressure from the pump. A leak-off test from the injectors will tell you whether or not you have correctly working injectors and the necessary fuel pressure at the rail.


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No problem mate. I would personally perform a leak off test first to check that the injectors are fine and that they are getting the correct pressure at the rail. If the pressure isn't correct then check the sensor. If that's fine then check the regulator, and if that's fine then check your pump. The pump being last as it is the least likely and most expensive.


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