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Passenger Door Interior Light Switch

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Have seen this posted a few times with peeps asking, and thought I'd have a go and try a quick guide (hopefully it helps someone)

first up the bits needed:

obviously the switch and the bolt (cost all of 16.99 from local toyota garage)

bull nose pliers (red handled one)

crimping tool (blue handled one, cheap from halfords)

screwdriver with a t-30 bit


bits from halfords:

small spade connectors (the red bits)

crimp connectors (blue bits)

5 amp wire in red (smallest they had, colour not important)


First off (in the warm) strip some of the red housing from the wire exposing the copper cable, slide on a spade connector and use the crimping tool to fix them together


TURN OFF THE INTERIOR LIGHT..... pull back the trim from the inside, it is held on by the plastic poppers that hold most trim panles


poke your finger through from the back to help remove the sticker covering the holes


thread the cable with spade connector through from inside the car


slide the connector onto the back of the switch, place over the holes and tighten the bolt up (almost there)


route the cable under the trim and into the boot and down the otherside, get it all fitted first and then tidy up later (as you may pull the cable and undo your tidying)


cut the cable to about this height, to give you plenty of room for error


(the mrs helped me here by holding back the trim) slide the blue connector over the pink wire on the drivers side, slide in the new red wire, and squeeze the metal prong down with the bull nosed pliers. test pull them apart gently, if all is good fold over the blue cap on the connector


after popping all the trim back on, close the doors and switch the interior light back on... test the doors one at a time... BINGO



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I did the same. Mine is a five door model, so I also added two rear switches (bought them off ebay). The rear switches are a push fit into the existing holes in the body. These switches have two spade connectors (normal size), so one side has to be routed to earth (rear seat belt mounting is handily placed) with the other side being connected to the LH & RH side front door switches as shown in the photo provided by droitwichdosser.

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  • 1 year later...

Nice work, well done thumbsup.gif

I did the same thing with mine but also added a delay on the interior light.

I'm planning on adding a passenger switch and though adding a delay was a good idea. Where did you get yours from, and where abouts/how did you wire it in?


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I use one of these:

I fitted the light delay in the driver's door just behind the light switch. The principle of the switch is simple: the red (positive) wire connects to the door switch terminal on the positive side.

This wire has two connectors, one for the original door switch wire and the other which is connected in its place to the door switch terminal.

The black wire is connected to a convenient earthing point.

The delay exceeds 12 seconds and the light goes out in one go, as opposed to gentle fading.

On the plus side, the delay itself is very easy to conceal in a confined space and works perfectly.


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Thanks for this tech article guys. I'm going to do this with my 5 door (with the delay too). Do you mind giving me a link for the rear door switches you used davinuk?

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this is where i bought ours from


i done this mod in early 2013 and removed them in march this year and fitted them to our new aygo and they are still working fine so the switches seem to be of a good quality even thought they are so cheap

i fitted the light delay unit under the plastic trim by the rear door as i had to remove it to fit the switch wiring then earthed it to the rear seat mounting with a self tapping screw i used this earth point to provide the door switch with an earth

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Actually, I take it the ebay rear ones dont fit the front? Doesnt look like the rears use a mounting bolt..

Shame that Toyota want £17 just for one front one.

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Actually, I take it the ebay rear ones dont fit the front? Doesnt look like the rears use a mounting bolt..

Shame that Toyota want £17 just for one front one.

yes the rear ones are different to the front as the body is made of plastic so they dont earth through the switch body this is why there is two 15a spade terminals one goes to the courtesy light wire and the other is connected directly to an earth point

as for the front pin switch i went to a scrappy and found one in a toyota cost me a quid far cheaper than mr T

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Thanks, looks like I'll keep looking. I think I've found a used one from another model Toyota which might be the same. If it pans out it might be a more readily available source than Aygo ones.

Although the scrappys would be the cheapest route, I can't be doing with them anymore

<brings back fond memories of trawling oil-soaked yards with rabid guard dogs and equally dodgy owners looking for Escort Mk1 trinkets>

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Don't quote me on it, but I think yaris rear doors are the same part (increases the scrappy search potential) will double check with some other peeps...

EDIT: I was wrong... there are some cheap rear switches here


EDIT2: looks like the same link as aygo posted :)

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  • 1 month later...

Guys I can confirm that Toyota MRS ones will fit the front. I got a used one off Ebay for 5 quid, and bought two of the rears from Ebay as previously linked. I also got a delay module which like Raistlins also takes around 12 secs but it does dim gradually which is nice. I had some wire, spade terminals and gas soldering iron (I'm not keen on Scotchlocks) in the shed. I picked up the rear earths from the brackets which hold the rear seats back. Got everything up and running in couple of hours for the grand sum of £20 which IMO is a very worthwhile mod for the price. Now I don't need to keep my door open when the kids are faffing around getting in and out and I haven';t got to worry about putting my phone/keys etc in the right places before shutting the door! Kinda helps when it's blowing a hoolie outside and raining stair rods.

Thanks to the OP for this thread :)

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Nice one. Mine didn't come with the bolt but it's a readily available 6mm thread. Around 15 or 20mm long would do it. I had a domed allen head one lying around but I think a regular hex head would fit in the recess as well.

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