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TonyK

D$D Not Starting After No Running For 1 Year

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Hi there,

I have a 54plate D4D (2.0l) that will not start after having stood for just over 1 year. The car has 170k miles on it and was running like a dream before it was left standing. The Battery obviously went flat over this period and was totally dead and wouldn't hold a charge. So.....

I have put a brand new Battery in and the engine turns over fine but will not start.

I have pumped up the fuel filer and removed the output pipe and fuel comes through as I pump.

I have checked the exhaust and there is no white smoke coming through as it turns over.

Obviously the imobiliser kicked in after standing so long and the Battery being flat, is it something simple like a fuel cut off valve that needs resetting or where should I start looking.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Cheers

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no idea about fule cut off as i have only just bougt mine however i assume that as u realised u had to pump fule into the filter etc that u did that b4 even trying to start it other wise u might have air in the injectors

coop

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Hi there

Thanks for the response.

I have just removed the entire fuel filter assemply, cleaned it up and put a new filter in, primed it, until fuel came out of the outlet pipe, reconnected the pipe and then did the final pump up, it is now hard.

But when trying to start I noticed that the Sediment warning light on dash remains on when the engine is turning over, even after the filter is replaced. I can't remember whether this is usual?

So it doesn't look like fuel is getting as far as the injectors or through them.

What next?

Cheers

Tony

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as i say i am new to toyotas having owned a rover and a skoda as my last two cars. I just vaguly remember getting screamed at for trying to start a diesel b4 i had primed the system after we did the fuel filter because he would now have to crack off all the injectors to get all the air out. Admitedly that was 20 years ago and the mechanic hated diesel cars.

only other time i saw him that mad was when i snapped the key off in the door of his brand new xr2i but thats another story

Coop

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Hi Coop

Thanks again.

I think I will now got through the following in an effort to get to the bottom of the problem.

1 Loosen the feed pipes to the injectors and see if fuel is getting to them

2 If it is I will remove an injector and see if there is anything coming out from it

3 If it isn't I will see if the pump has any output

4 If the above provides no answer, I'll start disconnecting and reconnecting every electrical connector I can find

I just hope that there isn't a fuel cut of switch somewhere that just needs resetting. The manual I have says that it is mounted in the steering wheel, but there isn't one there, because of the airbag.

Thanks for the moral support

Tony.

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warning "stupid" suggestions coming up

1) if the imobliser is active can the engine turn over???????

2) on the rover there was a cut off switch on the offside (drivers side) on the bulk head

3)have u traced the fule route from the tank down see if there is any "funny boxs"

I assume that ur using the handpump to test for fule coming out rather than turning the engine over. Also i would suggest u check for air like u would bleed brakes ie a drop of diesel in the bottom of a sutable container and emerse the end of whatever pipe u have into it so u can look for air

hope i havent told ya somthing u were already doing and please bare in mind that im an amatur mechanic i havent had any formal training ie collage etc its just how i would do it. Hopefully someone will correct me if im suggestiong somthing wrong

hope it helps

coop

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The immobiliser on your Avensis cuts the fuel supply in the high pressure pump by shutting the Suction control valves preventing fuel getting into the common rail. I assume as the Battery was flat you opened the car using the key in the door? By doing this you most likely tripped the alarm / immbiliser when you fitted the new Battery turning the immob' off should be as easy as shutting all the doors, bonnet etc locking the car using the remote then unlocking with the remote .

If after this the car still cranks but does not start I would suspect either the SCV's are stuck or maybe the glow plugs are not heating sufficiently to start combustion.

As a side, please please be very careful with any fuel pipework after the high pressure pump as the pressures in those pipes can be extremely dangerous with potential pressures in excess of 135mpa/20,000psi

Devon

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um i know its not my topic but as an asside is there away of depresurising the fule lines safely?

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Hi Devon Aygo and Coop

Thanks for suggestions, even after locking and relocking (several times) it still cranks but does not start, no sign of life at all.

I have just rebuilt a Perkins 4.248 diesel on a tractor and that was "simples" :) compared to when I look under the bonnet of the Avensis, so forgive the silly question, what's an SCV and where do I find them, glow plugs I get, but I suspect its not them as I would be seeing some thick white unburnt diesel smoke from the exhaust but there is nothing.

I am still also wondering whether there is a fuel cutoff switch that operates when you have a crash and the ignition is still on, could this have been tripped after so long a lay off period?

Cheers

Tony

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PS

Just spoken to a "pro" tractor engine fitter and he came close to having a hand amputated following his hand getting in the way of a high pressure fuel line. So warning taken on board.

Thanks

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I have just checked and there doesn't appear to be any form of reset switch for the fuel shut off.

An SCV is, depending on your pump version either 1 or 2 electrical valves mounted into the high pressure diesel pump, the engine ECU uses them to control fuel pressure onto the common rail & the immobiliser uses them to stop fuel supply from the pump.

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Thanks for the explanation Devon

I'll start having a look next weekend. I'm hoping that they are attached onto the high pressure pump rather than inside it.

Cheers

Tony

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Just looked on eBay and the price of these valves, if they need replacing, are staggering. The price ranges from £195 for the pair to £959.99 GULP.

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do u have a friendly garage u can take it to or rather call up that will point u in the right direction. least that way u dont end up paying out for parts and then finding u still have the same prob if they dont fix it.

coop

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immobiliser lost its memory for being sitting so long? recode the keys?

is there a master key to reset immob

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have you got a diagnostic read out to see if that tells you anything?

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Hi there

Thanks for the ideas, wasn't able to spend any time on it last weekend so no further forward at the mo.

Re the friendly garage and the diagnostic readout: I will see if they have a diagnostic reader and will come out to me, I live in the sticks.

Re the immobiliser: Wouldn't the immobiliser cut the power to the starter too? If it does then it isn't the immobiliser because it turns over nice and fast with the new Battery. The Battery in the key is fine as it still remotely locks and unlocks the car. If the immobiliser doesn't cut the power to the starter can you tell me how I would do that or point me to the relevant thread Thanks

Onwards and upwards

Cheers All

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Was just reading another thread and it made me think (which can be useful sometimes!). With the ignition switched on and the lights all on on the dashboard, should I hear the fuel pump on the tank ticking or is power to this also cut by the immobiliser. Bearing in mind I have just chnaged the fuel filter and pumped it up by hand I should expect to hear the pump going shouldn't I?

Cheers

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The immobiliser cuts fuel supply via the suction control valves it does not cut the starter,

Devon

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possible the scvalve or valves could be stuck shut if sitting for long dry or as i say immobiliser .

battery in key is nothing to do with immobiliser thats for central locking.

master ignition key i mention is usually a different coloured key to refresh the memory of the immobileser or to program in new key

shows a good video for better understanding

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