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Myles Taylor

Air Filter Change Fuel Guage Gone Bonkers

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Hi folks changed my Air Filter last week only disconnected the one connector block to allow me to move the air filter box cover and connected it back up . Since then on filling fuel tank where I would normally get approx 85-90 miles from my first block it dropped to 70 and on my last fill up it dropped to 62 go figure cos I cant . Genuine air filter the old one was black and I was expecting if not the same then a little more on the fuel economy. I know its been very cold of late so a little more fuel usage can be expected but this much ???? Also I know the guage is absolute !Removed! pants anyway but this erratic.

Any ideas...... I will run tank down to flashing and see if I am getting around the same total mileage.

Also I have put my 17 inch alloys back on so can expect a little more fuel to be used with the extra drag/friction of bigger tyres.

Cheers folks

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best way to measure is to calculate your miles to the cost and then use a fuel calculator

the only way you will know how much you are using for sure.

was the old filter really dirty?

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I noticed that my air filter was black yesterday.

I cleaned it by pressurized air, cause Toyota was closed.

But: I see that the filter is changed in the big checkup after 30.000 kilometers. I just had the small checkup for the 3 year or 40.000 kilometers.

So I have driven about 13.000 kilometers with a new filter, and it looks really dusty and blackish.

In the maintenance book, it says to replace the filter after 60.000 kilometers. So they say to replace it every big checkup AND? At 60.000?

Anyways.. Does anyone know if it's good to exchange for a new one (since I force cleaned it with pressurized air) and anybody know the costs of such a thing?

Or buy a replacement / cheaper one.... Or a more expensive "high performance" one?? Any thoughts?

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In my opinion, a nice fresh standard filter changed more often,

and keep your good fuel economy by letting the engine breath.

If you are liable to getting a damp filter, then a good quality one that will not fall apart at any sign of H20.

Not Washable & Re-treat /Oil ones that can sometimes Strangle an Engine. (kill MAF's on some cars)


not 'Performance Air Filters', the ones for Use in Dust and Quarries unless you drive in Dust and Quarry type conditions.


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