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Mornachew

Overheating Issue! T180

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Hi all!!

I have searched the forum but not found a fault like it???

Ok so. Car starts and runs if I leave the car on the drive for 1/2 hr....no overheating! Temperature needle in the middle!!

The minute I start driving it the temp gauge starts risingtowards the red!! Within 5 mins!

Even if I start the car and jump in then drive ...5 mins in the red!!( I pull over before red!)

When I do pull over then the red Oil light starts flickering (800rmp) at idle. I know the car has Oil in it because I changed the Oil!

So I took it to a mechanic and he put some blue die in the radiator to see if head gasket had gone. He said it was fine. I then got him to change the water pump. Same!! Not loosing Oil or water and no smoke?? Any ideas????

If its a engine change .... Any recommendations??

Thanks all!!

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things I would check for:

Is the Coolant level low?

Does the radiator get hot as it should? i.e. is the thermostat opening when engine up to temperature. Thermostat could have failed in the closed postition.

Does the cooling fan kick in.

Check the connection to the coolant temp sensor.

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Hi thanks for your quick reply!

No coolant level ok.

Fan comes on.

Water in radiator ...hot

I'll check that connection cheers!!

Do you think head warped under pressure??

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When the needle goes to the red - does it do it gradually or does it sit at normal then shoot across into the red?

I missed the part about the Oil light flickering...

There is also an Oil pressure switch - this again has a single connector to it - normally near your Oil filter. Check this connection too. The switch could be failing.

What was the condition of your Oil on the last change. Was it sludgy at all? Could the Oil strainer be blocked?

A long shot, but worth checking - could the bottom of your sump be damaged? - maybe by jacking it up by the sump or hitting an obstacle - this could restrict the Oil strainer.

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Hi again it gradually moves up to the red. I've never let it in the red. When I decrease speed also the needle falls? So it's only when the engine has to work.

Oil was just dark with no sludge or emulsification.

Sump looks fine!

I've just bought it and it apparently had a head gasket replaced along with injectors just. Now I bought it and asked my brother too look over and drive it. He said it was all good and drove it about 30 miles with no overheating. It's been sat on my dads front drive for the last 3 weeks and he has been starting it every other day with no probs! I'm armed forces and I'm just back in the country.

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I'm going to replace thermostat with Toyota thermostat and will let you all know how I get on!!

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sorry, missed your earlier reply.

Changing the thermostat would be a good idea as it's relatively cheap and easy, and would rule that out.

Everything else you mentioned checks out fine, but the only thing that I can think of that could link the two problems are if the incorrect grade of Oil was used on the last change.

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It's gonna cost £35 including gasket. The Oil I changed the day I got the flickering light and I used what it said which was 5W30 I think but I got that from the handbook. It gets changed Friday so I will let you know garathpaul. Thanks for your input mate.

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Ok so the update........THERMOSTAT!! Not a cheap one from eBay. A genuine Toyota one ... So wahay!!! My car back ;)

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Hi all i was wondering, My 1999 toyota avensis gs starts and drives ok, Then when it,s up tp temp the idle seems a bit jurky????...It,s like it,s trying to tick over. Any help please

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hey, glad it turned out to be the thermostat - guess it failed slightly open.

Do you still have the flickering Oil light?

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Hi yes im glad it was the thermoatat also!

Ive still got the flickering Oil light on idle - about 600RPM. i was going to look how to increase the idle to about 800RPM.

I also am getting the orange low Oil level light! but ive just changed the Oil and topped it to the correct level - must be the Oil switch??

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I'm also glad to hear the problem was easily cured. Regarding the low rpm (600) sometimes mine does the same. I am getting the throttle body and idle control valve cleaned on Tuesday and hope that will resolve it. Maybe yours may need the same?

Mo

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your idle does seem low - this may be why you are getting the flickering lights due to the alternator not turning fast enough to provide a proper, stable output.

I'm not sure as I don't have a low Oil light, but just like you get the Oil pressure, Battery and other misc lights come on when you turn on your ignition - is the low Oil light meant to come on as well, then go off when the engine is running? Maybe someone else can answer that.

If it is then it could be related to the low idle. However, if it is only meant to come on when the Oil is low, then it is potentially a faulty switch - but check first - there are probably two different sensors - one for Oil pressure, and one for Oil level.

As far as I am aware, the natural idle speed cannot be adjusted.

What is your idle like in general - smooth or lumpy?

You say you have changed the Oil - what about other service items like plugs, air filter, ignition leads?

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