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Does it really make much difference between using 0w 20 (which is recommended for my Auris 1.33 2011), and 5w 30 (which is cheaper) ?

Yes it should be 0w 20, ( API SN/SM; ILSAC GF-5) it is the PREFERRED grade, however, you can use 5w 30 PFE, API CF; ACEA A5/B5 C2, as an option. it's your car, you pays yer money..................

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In both my Auris, I found economy to be better using 0W-20

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The 0w 20 oil is a premium oil, it has much better lubrication and fuel efficiency characteristics, hence that is reflected in the price

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I have got some 0W 20, but I am interested to know if this is recommended mainly for fuel economy, and that the 3w 30 is just as good ?

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Think it is economy and efficiency as this preference came about when Toyota introduced their Optimal Drive engines. I've found that my Auris are more economical with the 0W-20 than the 5W-30.

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Have just changed the oil and used 0w 20 , just to be on the safe side. It was pretty straight forward, still not sure if 5w 30 does any harm though.

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5W30 will do no harm whatsoever assuming it meets the basic quality requirements (nothing to do with the 5W30 rating). The same applies to the 0W20.

For extended high speed cruising (eg motorway) and enthusiastic A road driving then the 5W30 could well be a 'better' choice in terms of oil consumption, particularly as mileage increases.

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  • 8 months later...

I am looking to do an oil change on my 2007 Auris 2.0 Litre D4D (fitted without a DPF). Checking the owners manual it recommends an oil with a specification of ACEA B1 and API CF4 or CF. Looking at the specifications of most oils currently on the market they have a low saps rating and most have an ACEA C+ rating, which I believe are for vehicles fitted with a DPF. Would it be beneficial to use one of these low saps oils, because of all of the engine carbon build up problems that plagues the Auris D4D model?

If not, is this oil any good http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84114-fuchs-titan-supersyn-f-eco-dt-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx it's for a Ford but seems to be the right spec according to the handbook.

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Think I'd stick with 5W-30, rather than low saps. The Fuchs oil from Opie looks OK.

Have you also looked at Amazon?

Example https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-TITAN-5W-30-Performance-Engine/dp/B00MV268N8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1475878655&sr=8-6&keywords=5w-30+oil+for+diesel

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I use petronas engine oil and have done for some years and it's great 

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In the end I decided to go with Motul 8100 Eco-Nergy 5W-30 Fully Synthetic. Excellent reviews and matched the Toyota (without DPF) specifications.

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  • 1 year later...
On 1/15/2015 at 12:00 AM, Cyker said:

Yeah the 5W40 is too viscous for the newer petrol engines; It's better for people with older cars with high mileage or cars with Mk1 1.4 D4D engines.

Hello I have the mk1 yaris and it has the diesel with 131,000 miles. I saw that 5w40 was last used in the history, would u know if I'd need any special type like Acea C2 or c3

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Year??

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  • 1 year later...

Hello,

Sorry for bumping this.

I am having issue of oil burning on my 2007 Toyota Auris D4D. When I rev it hard it gives out a lot of smoke but when I am cruising on motorway at 70 mph at 2K of RPM no smoke. No power loss or no MPG drop whatsoever. I consistently get anything between 45-55 MPG in mixed driving condition. I had it serviced in July this year through an independent garage which put Petronas 5W30 oil in my car. I dont have complete specifications of. I am seeing oil loss and smoke after service. I got it topped up from him twice in space of these 2 months everytime he says he poured 1-2 litre of oil which is shocking. I think he is bluffing.

Last year same garage put Shell 5W30 oil and car ran absolutely fine with no issues.

I am thinking of another oil and oil filter change with either Toyota oil or Shell 5W30 and oil filter change. Is it ok to do it?

Total mileage - 94200

Mileage since last service ~ 2000 miles

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Hi, yes you can change your oil every month if you want or if necessary. I have also best experience with engine oils from Shell , I will highly recommend you to try Shell helix ultra and buy filter from Toyota genuine one. You can also do an engine flesh prior the new oil, stp have a good stuff and not too expensive. Give it a try and see how it works with different make of oil. Petronas usually is quality oil and I personally use only that make in 0w20 viscosity for my own car, no smoke, no noses, no consumption in any driving styles and conditions. 
Regards 

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2 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Hi, yes you can change your oil every month if you want or if necessary. I have also best experience with engine oils from shell , I will highly recommend you to try shell helix ultra and buy filter from Toyota genuine one. You can also do an engine flesh prior the new oil, stp have a good stuff and not too expensive. Give it a try and see how it works with different make of oil. Petronas usually is quality oil and I personally use only that make in 0w20 viscosity for my own car, no smoke, no noses, no consumption in any driving styles and conditions. 
Regards 

Sorry for another set of questions.

What is the exact oil from Shell I need to buy? How much is the quantity? My car is 2007 D4D 2L.

Which is the best place to buy genuine Shell Ultra Helix oil?

Thank you.

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Your engine should be 1AD-FTV. According to owners manual, it takes 6.3L when you replace the filter, or 5.9 if you do oil service without replacing the filter.

You can buy any oil with  grade ACEA C2, preferably 0W30, or 5W30, check the compatibility chart below.


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When you do the oil and filter change I would put in a stop smoke and a diesel treatment. 
the stop smoke conditions the seals. You might have a valve seal that’s gone hard 

oh and make sure what ever oil you use it’s the right specification. 
just because it says 5w30 or 0w20 it may be the wrong grade 

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8 hours ago, Kineticsteve said:

oh and make sure what ever oil you use it’s the right specification. 
just because it says 5w30 or 0w20 it may be the wrong grade 

5W30 and 0W20 are the grades so, 5W30 can't be the wrong "grade".

The other numbers. i.e. C2, API CF, refer to the specification.

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Also that the oil meets API SL, SM, or SN requirements.

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Hi, best place to buy oil is from a reputable sellers like Opie Oils, Eurocarparts, but you can buy through eBay and Amazon, you will get best prices there. www.carparts4less.co.uk also have good prices, it’s basically same as eurocarparts, Shell helix ultra 0w30 or 5w30 but make sure is ACEA C2 or C3, as already noted by other members. This is important for the life of your DPF if fitted one and the catalytic converter. If you use C2 you may get better fuel efficiency but may get higher oil consumption where if you use C3 spec you may have slightly lower fuel efficiency but also lower oil consumption. The difference in fuel consumption it’s absolutely minimal. It’s up to you which one you want to try but both are suitable for your car. You can get 2x 5l and have some extra in case you need to top up. 5w30 C3 is cheaper option too. 
 

More for the oil types here: 

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-acea-car-engine-oils-specification-explained.aspx

 


Good luck 

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Highly unlikely that his car has a DPF so shouldn't need to be C2 - I used to run my 2007 2AD-FTV on B5. Quite possible these days though that C2 is easier/cheaper to get hold of.

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On 10/11/2019 at 8:38 AM, Stivino said:

5W30 and 0W20 are the grades so, 5W30 can't be the wrong "grade".

The other numbers. i.e. C2, API CF, refer to the specification.

Sorry that’s what I meant specification 😔 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone,

Thanks a lot for your replies, I really really appreciate it.

Sorry for the late reply. The oil situation is rather worrying. Oil level is reducing as I munch miles. I am thinking of going for Castrol Magnetch 5W30 C3 oil. Anyone has any experience on it?

Thank you.

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