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skonix

Auris Window-Lock Switch Issue

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First of all let me write this: Whoever designed the window-lock feature on the 2007 Auris had no kids!
Otherwise he would know that the way the window lock switch is implemented is more of a problem than a solution.

The issue is this: When you lock the windows so that the kids in the back cannot open and close the window as they please, you (the driver) don't have control either!!! Only the driver's window is functional. You cannot operate the other 3 windows from the driver's 4-switch panel unless you unlock them.

The same goes for the co-driver; when you lock the windows for the kids, his/her window is also disabled. This causes frustration and it distracts the driver's attention.

What I wanted was to be able to control all 4 windows, lock the windows for my kids in the back and allow the co-driver to use her window.

I contacted Toyota about this and they told me that there was nothing they could do.

Well, here's what I did:

My first attempt to solve this problem was by removing the connector from the switch of the rear window.

To pull the switch out of the door, put a knife between the switch and the upholstery and gently raise the switch. The anchor points are shown here:

anchorpoints_zps7d05dfed.jpg

removing_zpsf296fca7.jpg

The problem with this solution is that while the child cannot operate the window, neither can the driver! Both switches, the single one in the rear door and the respective switch of the driver's panel are no longer working...
So, removing the connector from the switch was not a good solution.

So, I put the connector back to the switch and thought about removing individual cables from the connector.

Removing an individual cable from the connector requires a needle or a very small flat screwdriver. Using the needle or the screwdriver, you have to raise the small plastic clip that's holding the cable in place and at the same time pull the cable out of the connector.


connector_zps1b52a0c0.jpg

The connector itself has five coloured cables. I noticed that the middle one was thinner that the other 4. I removed this cable (in my case it was pink) and reattached the connector to the switch.

cables_zpsd51f5920.jpg

It worked like a charm. The window can now be operated by the driver's 4-switch panel but not by the switch in the rear door.
My problem was solved and it took me no more than 10 minutes to do it!
Before putting the switch back to its place, I put some insulating tape around the removed cable to protect it.

That's it.

I hope this modification helps someone with the same problem.

Thanks for reading.

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Playing devil's advocate - what happens if and when (presumably when they get to a certain age) one of the kids travels in the front passenger seat.

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Playing devil's advocate - what happens if and when (presumably when they get to a certain age) one of the kids travels in the front passenger seat.

My kids are very young and this mod was done to prevent them from playing with the window all the time and distracting me from driving.

It's not permanent and I can always restore the original configuration.

The answer to your question is that I will lock the windows by using the lock switch... But then again. the kids will have grown enough not to play with it. :-)

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Theoretically, if you cut blue wire (pin no.15) of windows master switch (18 pin white connector), and use the wire coming from connector to tap grey wire (pin no.2) of driver's power window ecu (10 pins white connector) - both are situated in driver's door - driver door window switches could be use even the lock function is activated, but other 3 switches don't. A big disadvantage could be that windows can be operated from driver's door even if ignition is turned off.

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Not limited to the 2007 Auris - more a case of being standard operation on most Japanese cars. Maybe there is some guidance out there or rules.

My 2001 Honda Accord worked in exactly the same manner - from memory

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Theoretically, if you cut blue wire (pin no.15) of windows master switch (18 pin white connector), and use the wire coming from connector to tap grey wire (pin no.2) of driver's power window ecu (10 pins white connector) - both are situated in driver's door - driver door window switches could be use even the lock function is activated, but other 3 switches don't. A big disadvantage could be that windows can be operated from driver's door even if ignition is turned off.

Old post bump! Has anyone tried this? I'd very much like my (drivers) controls to all function when the 'lock' is active. Surely this makes logical sense, it's definitely the way I would have designed the system...

I have a new shape Auris, I will check first to see if the wire colours are the same but I'd be glad to know if anyone has actually tried the mod.

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I have tried the initial solution. Wire was the same colour. Removed and my doors don't lock. Re fitted and locks work so

It's not a safe fix

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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Hi Mark,

you've got me thinking... So you say that you removed the middle wire from the window plug, it was also pink and the doors won't lock? This is strange. In theory, the absence of the switch itself should have no effect on the locking functionality.

Could you please confirm that it was the middle wire?
And (assuming you would like to play with the switch a little more :)) if you remove the entire plug, will the locking problem persist? (This could mean that they have changed the wiring on the Auris)

As far as I can tell, your SR180 was based on the first generation Auris (judging from the tail lights and the bumper design) but of course the wiring could be different hence the issue your reported.

Please note, that the fix was applied on another 1-st generation Auris without any problems.
Thank you for your input.

Regards,
Dimitris

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Hi, yes I can confirm that it was the middle thinner wire. It was pink on the passenger's side and blue on the driver's side. I work away during the week but will have a play on the weekend by disconnecting the plug completely.

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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