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T180 D-4D, P2002 Fault Code

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Hi I am looking for some advice please.

In Sep 2012 Our 2008 T180 started having the 'check vsc system, check ABS system, check brake system' so we took it to our local dealers.

Fault P2002 came up... Dff Block

Carried out DPF regeneration.

Code cleared off we go.....

September this year on our way on holiday the same warning lights appeared and loss of power the car had gone into limp mode. Car all packed we took to Local dealership on route, spent the day there while they carried out tests.

Code P2002, replacement of fuel filter and housing.

Road tested light returned same code

Carried out regeneration of Cat twice

road tested all ok

Re tested for 10 miles lights on again but ended up being a separate issue which resulted in the brake light switch.

We had to leave the car with them while we went on holiday and had to pay out for a hire car.

There is a note on our invoice warning us to monitor as cat converter could be the underlying issue with the P2002 code

This weekend (Nov) lo and behold the same lights came on, it is now currently in our local dealership with an estimate of £1700 to replace the Cat..

From what I am reading this has been a common problem, so were if Toyota were aware of this should cars have been recalled?

should they have replaced it back in Sep last year instead of letting us pay out £1000+ since then and now the £1700?

This car has only done 43000 miles, when I queried that should a car of this mileage be having this problem they told me to call customer relations, I have done this, they have told me that the dealership shouldn't have done this and it is likely that we will have to pay, they seemed to almost tell me off because we didn't take out an extended warranty and havnt had all our services done by Toyota.

Should we be having this kind of problem with a car of this mileage ? please can anyone advise?

Thank you in advance

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To expect a recall for blocking cats is a ridiculous statement. However, there is the opportunity to get a new engine on your vehicle all free of charge. Perhaps not good enough but I doubt they will give you a free new RAV.

pm me with your contact details when you have calmed down.

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Does your car burn Oil ?? Does it expell coolant from the tube on the expansion tank ...

If it is clogging up the EGR valve or the DPNR then investigations should have carried out immediately when the fault code was thrown up ..

Sorry but I strongly suspect your car is suffering the usual issued.. My first engine was replaced at 40 odd K miles and it's very common for engines to go at or around that mileage . I think your dealer had missed the point completely . If they had not its very likely you would have had no bills and a correct diagnosis would have been made with the result of your engine bieng replaced .

There has not been a re call on these engines as it's not a safety issue and not all cars are affected..

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Just realised that I put the code to a different issue at the beginning of my post about the initial problem Sep 2012...It should be Check engine system, check 4x4 system, check vsc system.

NOT the brake one etc

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There is no legal obligation to have all servicing done by Toyota, except in the case of such as mine the fourth and fifth year services must be main dealer under the five year warranty. As long as it has been serviced according to Toyota schedule, and hopefully using OEM bits, it only leaves me to say.........welcome to Club and Happy New Engine, Neil min........contact Anchorman as requested at your earliest convenience........he borders on the quite helpful.

Store this too.........WHEN they come to do new engine. (posi thinking there.......) get yer clutch done at zero labour content.........like masell, it's a no brainer min......

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Follow this link.. It will offer you the information I hope that you can discuss with Toyota Customer Service..

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/132178-charliefarlies-guide-to-the-toyota-2ad-diesel-engine-and-its-issues/

Have a read through it and come back with any questions if you are unsure of any of the points....

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Hi Neil,

I had the dreaded P2002 come up on my 2006 T180 recently. The car has its original engine, and I've done about 25,000 miles with it since I bought it. At 103,000 miles, I had had no problems with the engine. I have always done my own servicing. There's minimal Oil usage, and I do clean the EGR regularly, use low ash C2 Oil, and avoid supermarket fuels.

There was no loss of power when the fault code came up, and the car still drove perfectly. I reset the MIL with my scanner, and, over the next several tank full's of diesel, used two different DPF Regenerator products. I would say that the engine smoothed out a little (although it was not rough before), but P2002 kept recurring, at first every couple of days or so, but latterly, several times a day - to the extent that I kept the scanner in the car to clear the fault code while I was on the road. In all this time, the engine never lost power!

In principle, I only take a car to the dealers if I'm totally stuck - and I hate to be beaten! I read all I could find about the DPF and how it operates (although, technically, we have a DPNR filter on our cars - Diesel Particulate and Nox Reduction filter). I came across a couple of threads elsewhere that suggested that a number of these filters were being needlessly replaced when the problem was not in the filter itself, but in the system that detects a potential failure.

I hope that I'm describing this next bit accurately! A Pressure Sensor device measures the pressure difference between the gases entering the DPF and leaving it. If that difference is too great, then P2002 is triggered. On our cars, the Differential Pressure Sensor is a small, easily accessible component, bolted on to the bulkhead almost directly below the passenger side wiper arm spindle, and nearly in the centre of the bulkhead.

It's a little square box, 50x50x20mm in size (or, in old money, 2x2x3/4 inches) with one multiplug on it, and two narrow-bore flexible pipes coming out from underneath it. It's mounted with four small nuts onto a mounting bracket. The same code would be triggered if one of those pipes became partially, or totally, blocked.

I took the sensor off to get better access to the pipes, and then unclipped them from the sensor itself, and used my airline set first at about 30psi to check that the pipes were clear. One pipe obviously was, as I could hear the air going down it, but the other one was clearly almost totally blocked. I increased the pressure to about 40psi, and suddenly the air began to hiss down the pipe.

I didn't want to be too adventurous and increase the pressure any more, so I put it all back together, just to see what would happen. That was over a thousand miles ago, and P2002 has never been seen since!

I do hope that your dealer has gone through the required process to eliminate this simple problem before replacing the DPF.

Best of luck with yours!

Ian

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Very useful post Ian. I'm guessing from your location that you get used to solving your own problems as a matter of necessity.

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As a 180 owner myself that's a useful post Ian and one worth saving,thanks.

I'm also still running the original engine (on 65k)with none of the common issues as yet.

Dead right on the need for regular EGR cleaning, good fuel and low ash Oil.

We're two members of the very exclusive . 'original T180 engine owners' club ;-)

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I think consideration should be given to too much cleaning of certain parts.. These parts could be an indicator of things going wrong.. I've said more than once that cleaning these indicators could delay the issues potentially taking place until perhaps after the goodwill extended warranty has elapsed. ..

You pays yer money and takes yer chance..

Me ? Well my engine has been changed and when I opened the EGR to have a look and clean it I may as well of not bothered... It was really not in need if a clean and had not been opened for at least 30.000 miles.

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Good point Charlie, but a fine balancing act if your near the 7yr warranty deadline.

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I agree, Charlie!

But while my engine was within the extended goodwill warranty period, there was no indication of anything going wrong. From the previous service history, there was no indication of the EGR having been cleaned, and, when I first checked it, it was dirty, but far from clogged.

I may just be treating symptoms rather than an underlying cause, as it were, but I'd rather keep treating those symptoms than do nothing, and perhaps hasten engine failure.

Glad yours in still working well!

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I cleaned my EGR when I first got the car and twice since then..tbh same as yours it was dirty,but far from being clogged up as some of the ones seen in the 'EGR cleaning ' thread, some of which were completely blocked.

IMO this could be down to always using good fuel ,regular low ash Oil changes and driving style from NEW.

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I cleaned my EGR when I first got the car and twice since then..tbh same as yours it was dirty,but far from being clogged up as some of the ones seen in the 'EGR cleaning ' thread, some of which were completely blocked.

IMO this could be down to always using good fuel ,regular low ash oil changes and driving style from NEW.

If your EGR is clean then that is a MAJOR indicator of good engine health... Or at least one of the major contributors ...

If I owned a car outside of warranty I would clean that EGR on a very regular basis. No question....

If I had a car with say 12 to 18 months warranty left to run I would not touch it absolutely no way.

For the benefit of new members it is essential to use quality fuels in these cars especially bearing in mind those fitted with the DPNR (Toyota speak for a very complex catalytic converter) .. My recommendation is Shell Vpower or BP Optimum.. Cheap supermarket fuels without the much needed additives will NOT do....

Oils as said above must also be selected and use only low ash correct grade and high quality...

I spoke with the OP of this post on the phone last night and the car in question is burning so much Oil it was taken back to the Toyota dealer once with the Oil light showing.... Dealer has missed the goal by a mile it seems as the car was topped up and the OP sent away....

Sadly we see this quite a lot especially of late... An owner going to the dealers with the dominant symptoms of what is a hugely and easily recognized issue only the dealer fails to recognize the problems and applies a dab of paint over a !Removed! great big crack............

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Blocked impulse lines can be a problem with EGR's and DPF's. A few years ago Volvo changed the design on the DPF a couple of times because of condensation and subsequent restriction of impulse lines. I don't know if theres sufficient a problem on the Rav but it may be worth passing a guitar string down the lines at a 20K mile service. It's important to measure the pressure drop directly across a DPF before and after a forced regeneration. This is usually done at 2000RPM and will confirm that there actually is a restriction problem and will indicate the degree of success of the regeneration. A typical clean DPF will have a pressure drop of between 30 and 80mbar. If it can't be recovered to that sort of level, then clearly the improvement will be short lived and you'll be repeating the job very soon.

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