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Corrosion On 3Rd Generation Rav 4 Floor Pans


The Bald One
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Hi people, been looking for a diesel Rav4 of 2007 vintage and was surprised to find swelling seams in the floor pans of an 07 Rav I was hoping to buy. There was no rust on the visible painted panels and it was mechanically fine. I had to walk away as i have no intention of having to weld up £7500 worth of car. I haven't seen corrosion on many cars since the late nineties so was surprised to see this on a Toyota.

Is this normal as I really fancied one of these frugal buggies until I saw this?

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Nae wonder yer bald, Mr........if you are worrying aboot Ravs rusting, FFS don't look under any Fords of the same vintage......!!!

As for the question "is this normal?".......observe the queue of Rav drivers desperate to reply, who have invested their hard earned cash......."Och Aye.......total pish........do not buy.......far king rust buckets"

Otherwise, welcome to this club........

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These cars are well rustproofed. Various treatments are applied to metal surfaces - the floor seams are mastic filled, overcoated with rustproofing material and finished with an plastic-like abrasion resistant coat. It's quite probable that the swelling you see is simply the treatment. To be honest, of any concern you have about a Rav - rust shouldn't be one of them!

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

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These cars are well rustproofed. Various treatments are applied to metal surfaces - the floor seams are mastic filled, overcoated with rustproofing material and finished with an plastic-like abrasion resistant coat. It's quite probable that the swelling you see is simply the treatment. To be honest, of any concern you have about a Rav - rust shouldn't be one of them!

I'm a panelbeater- or was until 7 years ago, so I know all about corrosion and welding. (Especially on old Fords Big Kev!)

I actually suggested that the car in question should be returned to Toyota as it had low miles and full Toyota service history. I presume it's perforation warranty (at 7 years of age)would cover the floorpan?

The question was (as I've always only had Land Rovers)is this a common fault with 3rd generation Ravs?

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Well we're all gonna be checking now as this is the first suggestion of a problem in that area that we've had on this forum...........

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These cars are well rustproofed. Various treatments are applied to metal surfaces - the floor seams are mastic filled, overcoated with rustproofing material and finished with an plastic-like abrasion resistant coat. It's quite probable that the swelling you see is simply the treatment. To be honest, of any concern you have about a Rav - rust shouldn't be one of them!

I'm a panelbeater- or was until 7 years ago, so I know all about corrosion and welding. (Especially on old Fords Big Kev!)

I actually suggested that the car in question should be returned to Toyota as it had low miles and full Toyota service history. I presume it's perforation warranty (at 7 years of age)would cover the floorpan?

The question was (as I've always only had Land Rovers)is this a common fault with 3rd generation Ravs?

As an owner of 7 Toyotas since 2001 and currently on a 4.3, I can tell you that corrosion is definitely not an issue - nor are most other things, bodywork, mechanical or otherwise.

I would have thought that a quick google search would have confirmed this. Nevertheless if you are certain of your diagnosis, it might be worth checking into the history of that particular car looking especially for accident damage (or use as a deep sea trawler perhaps :laughing: ).

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

That particular corroded 2.2 134 bhp one turned out an impressive 46.6mpg

I have heard that the petrol ones have a drink problem, and the 180 bhp diesels need regular water pumps.

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

That particular corroded 2.2 134 bhp one turned out an impressive 46.6mpg

I have heard that the petrol ones have a drink problem, and the 180 bhp diesels need regular water pumps.

46.6 mpg - nice bit of salesmanship there. I've had my 134hp for five and a half years now and, on regular calculations. it has returned an average over time of 42mpg. The OBC readout is currently showing 48.9 mpg. To parphrase Big Kev says, beware wooden toys with long noses.

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These cars are well rustproofed. Various treatments are applied to metal surfaces - the floor seams are mastic filled, overcoated with rustproofing material and finished with an plastic-like abrasion resistant coat. It's quite probable that the swelling you see is simply the treatment. To be honest, of any concern you have about a Rav - rust shouldn't be one of them!

I'm a panelbeater- or was until 7 years ago, so I know all about corrosion and welding. (Especially on old Fords Big Kev!)

I actually suggested that the car in question should be returned to Toyota as it had low miles and full Toyota service history. I presume it's perforation warranty (at 7 years of age)would cover the floorpan?

The question was (as I've always only had Land Rovers)is this a common fault with 3rd generation Ravs?

As an owner of 7 Toyotas since 2001 and currently on a 4.3, I can tell you that corrosion is definitely not an issue - nor are most other things, bodywork, mechanical or otherwise.

I would have thought that a quick google search would have confirmed this. Nevertheless if you are certain of your diagnosis, it might be worth checking into the history of that particular car looking especially for accident damage (or use as a deep sea trawler perhaps :laughing: ).

No impact damage on the underside although the large muffler was going to need replaced shortly too. Car came from the Scottish islands before returning to a seaside town on the mainland.

You must understand that I wouldn't have bothered joining a forum on Ravs if I wasn't wanting to get one. I'm a long term member of Mercedes, BMW, and a motorcycle forums as It's a great way of understanding (through owners)a vehicles foibles before committing to buy.

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

That particular corroded 2.2 134 bhp one turned out an impressive 46.6mpg

I have heard that the petrol ones have a drink problem, and the 180 bhp diesels need regular water pumps.

Over two years of ownership my petrol RAV has an average of 29.9 mpg which I consider good for the type of car it is and the often short journeys we do. With the 2.2 diesel I got about 40 mpg. The 180s have a bigger issue than water pumps .

Over the last 20 years I have had at least 10 Toyotas from the smallest to the largest and rust has never been an issue but I have known the history of them, since most were bought new.

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Sorry about the multi quote. Haven't got the hang of this yet

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

That particular corroded 2.2 134 bhp one turned out an impressive 46.6mpg

I have heard that the petrol ones have a drink problem, and the 180 bhp diesels need regular water pumps.

Over two years of ownership my petrol RAV has an average of 29.9 mpg which I consider good for the type of car it is and the often short journeys we do. With the 2.2 diesel I got about 40 mpg. The 180s have a bigger issue than water pumps .

Over the last 20 years I have had at least 10 Toyotas from the smallest to the largest and rust has never been an issue but I have known the history of them, since most were bought new.

40 mpg is fine for a car with 4X4 potential. My 2ltr BM car only does 48mpg and my Mercedes optomistic OBC gives around 32mpg. The Defender only makes sense towing and I won't talk about the Range Rover

That's good to hear that this corrosion is rare. I really was shocked to see the state of this cars underside but appreciate that with its towbar it could well have been used transporting boats and seen a lotof salt action.

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..........and as for frugality, Mr.........dinnae be reading Toyota blurbs on "combined" mpg.........Pinnochio worked at Toyota, and his nose was permanently enlarged.......

That particular corroded 2.2 134 bhp one turned out an impressive 46.6mpg

I have heard that the petrol ones have a drink problem, and the 180 bhp diesels need regular water pumps.

Over two years of ownership my petrol RAV has an average of 29.9 mpg which I consider good for the type of car it is and the often short journeys we do. With the 2.2 diesel I got about 40 mpg. The 180s have a bigger issue than water pumps .

Over the last 20 years I have had at least 10 Toyotas from the smallest to the largest and rust has never been an issue but I have known the history of them, since most were bought new.

40 mpg is fine for a car with 4X4 potential. My 2ltr BM car only does 48mpg and my Mercedes optomistic OBC gives around 32mpg. The Defender only makes sense towing and I won't talk about the Range Rover

That's good to hear that this corrosion is rare. I really was shocked to see the state of this cars underside but appreciate that with its towbar it could well have been used transporting boats and seen a lotof salt action.

Bearing in mind its previous domicile you are probably right about the source of the corrosion. If it was used for lots of slipway duty and not prep'd for it or looked after properly then it's very possible that corrosion could be an issue. Having owned 4 RAVs and a LC4 I can honestly say that the matter of corrosion never occurred to me.

Water pumps seemed to have figured regularly in my various RAVs' MoT advisories & Toyota servicing safety checklists re weeping but these warnings never developed into full failure (& one of our RAVs was 11 years old when we px'd it) and I only ever replaced one pump and that was precautionary when the serpentine belt had to be replaced after 9 years' service.

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These cars are well rustproofed. Various treatments are applied to metal surfaces - the floor seams are mastic filled, overcoated with rustproofing material and finished with an plastic-like abrasion resistant coat. It's quite probable that the swelling you see is simply the treatment. To be honest, of any concern you have about a Rav - rust shouldn't be one of them!

I'm a panelbeater- or was until 7 years ago, so I know all about corrosion and welding. (Especially on old Fords Big Kev!)

I actually suggested that the car in question should be returned to Toyota as it had low miles and full Toyota service history. I presume it's perforation warranty (at 7 years of age)would cover the floorpan?

The question was (as I've always only had Land Rovers)is this a common fault with 3rd generation Ravs?

.......and ah was a cardboard box expert, man and boy, employee and employer, and saw some terrible delamination of product.

Didnae affect EVERY box ah made or sold.....

LOL.

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Hearing the history, I could very well imagine that Jim is on the right lines when talking about slipway duty. If salt water has got into any cavities and got trapped there it won't be a pretty sight............

A long time ago a relative of mine bought a very nice looking Range Rover that had been re-imported from Saudi. Turned out that it was full of sand in every moving part and body crevice.

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According to an MOT inspector friend of mine it's not unusual to see unexpected corrosion on vehicles that have lived by the sea, or where roads are regularly salted/gritted for most of the winter months.. Even on vehicles of only 5yrs old.

So Baldie could be correct.

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According to an MOT inspector friend of mine it's not unusual to see unexpected corrosion on vehicles that have lived by the sea, or where roads are regularly salted/gritted for most of the winter months.. Even on vehicles of only 5yrs old.

So Baldie could be correct.

Baldie was definitely correct. The seams where the floor pan joined longitudinally under the drivers seat mounting bolts between the inner sill and transmission tunnel had swollen and both the mastic and underseal had started to come away.

Looking at the up to date Toyota service reports there was no mention of the corrosion which as it's the first Rav 4 I've looked at made me suspect that this might have been condition normal.

Thanks to the responses here I now know this is not normal.

The seat mounting bolts themselves would have required a warm up with oxy/acet to remove as they were blobs of rust, and no amount of a clean up with a scurf pad would have got underneath the overlap without drilling out the spotwelds. Also rust is always worse once the job is exposed.

As well as being a panelbeater (who used body solder/lead sticks rather than bondo) I did have a Mot testers certification for a few years. My query really was not to wind you all up about your choice of car but a genuine question about them as this was the first one I have looked at with a view to buy.

As I'm now getting a little old for crawling under cars I would like to find something relatively low maintenance so will keep looking for a good Rav4.

Thank you for all your replies and hopefully once I found a good one I will be back for more advice.

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According to an MOT inspector friend of mine it's not unusual to see unexpected corrosion on vehicles that have lived by the sea, or where roads are regularly salted/gritted for most of the winter months.. Even on vehicles of only 5yrs old.

So Baldie could be correct.

Baldie was definitely correct. The seams where the floor pan joined longitudinally under the drivers seat mounting bolts between the inner sill and transmission tunnel had swollen and both the mastic and underseal had started to come away.

Looking at the up to date Toyota service reports there was no mention of the corrosion which as it's the first Rav 4 I've looked at made me suspect that this might have been condition normal.

Thanks to the responses here I now know this is not normal.

The seat mounting bolts themselves would have required a warm up with oxy/acet to remove as they were blobs of rust, and no amount of a clean up with a scurf pad would have got underneath the overlap without drilling out the spotwelds. Also rust is always worse once the job is exposed.

As well as being a panelbeater (who used body solder/lead sticks rather than bondo) I did have a Mot testers certification for a few years. My query really was not to wind you all up about your choice of car but a genuine question about them as this was the first one I have looked at with a view to buy.

As I'm now getting a little old for crawling under cars I would like to find something relatively low maintenance so will keep looking for a good Rav4.

Thank you for all your replies and hopefully once I found a good one I will be back for more advice.

You need to read

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/132178-charliefarlies-guide-to-the-toyota-2ad-diesel-engine-and-its-issues/

if you are looking for diesel rather than the bomb proof petrol models.

David

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According to an MOT inspector friend of mine it's not unusual to see unexpected corrosion on vehicles that have lived by the sea, or where roads are regularly salted/gritted for most of the winter months.. Even on vehicles of only 5yrs old.

So Baldie could be correct.

Baldie was definitely correct. The seams where the floor pan joined longitudinally under the drivers seat mounting bolts between the inner sill and transmission tunnel had swollen and both the mastic and underseal had started to come away.

Looking at the up to date Toyota service reports there was no mention of the corrosion which as it's the first Rav 4 I've looked at made me suspect that this might have been condition normal.

Thanks to the responses here I now know this is not normal.

The seat mounting bolts themselves would have required a warm up with oxy/acet to remove as they were blobs of rust, and no amount of a clean up with a scurf pad would have got underneath the overlap without drilling out the spotwelds. Also rust is always worse once the job is exposed.

As well as being a panelbeater (who used body solder/lead sticks rather than bondo) I did have a Mot testers certification for a few years. My query really was not to wind you all up about your choice of car but a genuine question about them as this was the first one I have looked at with a view to buy.

As I'm now getting a little old for crawling under cars I would like to find something relatively low maintenance so will keep looking for a good Rav4.

Thank you for all your replies and hopefully once I found a good one I will be back for more advice.

................and in yer quest to find said (hopefully tetrosealed to death.....lol.....) Rav 4 Baldie min, if you are not near Glesga and should see wan that requires a preliminary inspectification, just geeza shout.

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Theres a good lesson here - when buying an used car, check and double check everything - don't ignore things that that are normally bulletproof - check them out. If in doubt - leave it and look at other examples.

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Thank you Big Kev for the offer of a pre - inspection. I'm up in Moray near Huntly but have no problem travelling anywhere in the UK for the right car. I recently trailered an E Class up from the Channel Islands back home so Glasgow is easy.

Thanks too for the link to the sticky giving the usual EGR related issues. I did think the 134bhp 2.2 diesel was relatively robust and it was the 180bhp model that was prone to give problems?

I think all modern diesels are encumbered with emmission related issues and have removed and blanked off the swirl flaps on my BMW and done the resistor trick on my 2007 E class to bypass the stepper motor/ECU. Both have since passed MOTs with a clean bill of health. I'm sure that there will be a similar solution to the RAV4.

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Sorry i didn't comment on this post earlier, I hit a pothole this morning, the floorpan detached from the body….

R. Usty

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Thank you Big Kev for the offer of a pre - inspection. I'm up in Moray near Huntly but have no problem travelling anywhere in the UK for the right car. I recently trailered an E Class up from the Channel Islands back home so Glasgow is easy.

Thanks too for the link to the sticky giving the usual EGR related issues. I did think the 134bhp 2.2 diesel was relatively robust and it was the 180bhp model that was prone to give problems?

I think all modern diesels are encumbered with emmission related issues and have removed and blanked off the swirl flaps on my BMW and done the resistor trick on my 2007 E class to bypass the stepper motor/ECU. Both have since passed MOTs with a clean bill of health. I'm sure that there will be a similar solution to the RAV4.

Baldy min.........you have brought a car from the Channel Islands? Only know that Jersey, and am nae expert, but will it not have spent most of its life in air and around watter WELL POLLUTED with salt.......aye.....? LOL.

Once owned a car which originated from That Aberdeen........at least when watter got in, it got back oot all yon rust holes quite quick.

Good local dealer near you IMHO........Albert Cumming@ Crown Motors near Turriff........have bought from him.......A1.

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Thank you Big Kev for the offer of a pre - inspection. I'm up in Moray near Huntly but have no problem travelling anywhere in the UK for the right car. I recently trailered an E Class up from the Channel Islands back home so Glasgow is easy.

Thanks too for the link to the sticky giving the usual EGR related issues. I did think the 134bhp 2.2 diesel was relatively robust and it was the 180bhp model that was prone to give problems?

I think all modern diesels are encumbered with emmission related issues and have removed and blanked off the swirl flaps on my BMW and done the resistor trick on my 2007 E class to bypass the stepper motor/ECU. Both have since passed MOTs with a clean bill of health. I'm sure that there will be a similar solution to the RAV4.

Baldy min.........you have brought a car from the Channel Islands? Only know that Jersey, and am nae expert, but will it not have spent most of its life in air and around watter WELL POLLUTED with salt.......aye.....? LOL.

Once owned a car which originated from That Aberdeen........at least when watter got in, it got back oot all yon rust holes quite quick.

Good local dealer near you IMHO........Albert Cumming@ Crown Motors near Turriff........have bought from him.......A1.

I used to buy nearly all my cars from the Channel Islands. The last one was after a gap of a few years but they have now seriously changed the importation rules (A lot more complicated)so probably won't bother again. Low mileage but at normal book values even after paying the duty. You just had to watch for clutch and body impact damage. Very few rusty cars there. Plenty of rusty tractors doing the slipway duty though.

Coincidence was I was at that very dealer (Crown Motors) this afternoon after having to go to Fraserburgh! They only had one RAV on a 55 plate with the spare on the tailgate.

You are right, they are not too hard to deal with, and an unaccompanied test drive is no bother either.

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