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Stiff Gear Change Between 1St And 2Nd


Roker
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90,000 mile up. I have noticed recently that changing from 1st to 2nd is stiff and needs a good tug. It does not happen all of the time, other times it is quite smooth. Has anyone else experienced this? I am hoping it is the linkage and not the Gearbox

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Mistermena had the same problem with his gearbox.

He said it was awful trying to get it into 1st when cold and always crunched into 2nd until the box oil warmed up.

He changed the oil to a straight 75w grade oil called Silkolen Pro SRG double ester oil and it made a World of difference to these triple synco boxes...

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Thanks, I will try this. I read on another forum that it could be a worn synchromesh (I hope not)

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I am experiencing a similar problem with my 58 T180 version, which spoils the driving experience of the car. Once the oil heats up its a lot easier to engage 1st and 2nd. I was considering changing the oil but the Toyota Manual states only to use Toyota's oils otherwise it will cause damage to the gearbox. Is this true or just sales patter?

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I to have experienced stiff gear change 1st to 2nd gear, very hit & miss, no particular pattern of when it happens, my Avensis Tourer 2012 only 22,000 miles, reported to Toyota at last service but of course with this kind of problem they could find no trace, but it has been noted on the service record.

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I've ordered the Silkolen Pro oil that's been recommended to cure this problem. I'll let you know how I get on.

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Many thanks for your reply ref stiff gear change,I will look out for your conclusion,and by the way today I experienced the same thing 3rd to 4th gear, only the once and not from cold start ??

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In my opinion, with the exception of my first car which was a Volvo 340, the gear box in my 58 Avensis 2.2 T180 5dr is one of the worst I've ever used. It's stiff (when cold), notchy, indirect and has long throws in-between gears...Certainly not what you'd expect in a sporty version of a Japanese car. My gear box has been checked and is not damaged in anyway, it just appears to be a bad design (judging from other owners similar experiences). The gear box and the heavy power steering spoil the whole driving experience of this car and prevent it from being driven as intended. Having said that I do love other aspects of this car...The ride, the powerful quiet engine (minus the below average MPG), it's practically and looks. Toyota have really missed a trick with this car, with some tweaking this could have been the market leader.

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Its because Toyota tried to fit a 6speed into the size of a 5 speed box! Triple synco gubbins on the T180...

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  • 4 weeks later...

I put the Silkolen Pro SRG double ester oil in the 6 speed gearbox of my 2008 T180 to see if it would make any difference and I'm happy to report it did. It took a few days for the oil to fully lubricate the gearbox, but once it did there was a noticable difference. It doesnt stop the sticking gear change completely but its does make it less likely to occur and the gear changes as a whole as a lot smoother. It's def worth doing. If only I could get my squeaky clutch pedal fixed so easily LOL, it sounds like a dungeon door being opened everytime I push down the clutch pedal, think it's the hydraulic version??

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I tried just greasing but didn't work squeak used to come back after a few days.

lastly I changed the pin and push rod clevis bush. my bush was really in a bad state.

my part numbers ;

pin 90249-08143
bush 90386-08002

yours maybe the same but check with Toyota dealer.

and use plenty of grease on the bush.

click on the link below.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/120775-05-avensis-clutch-pedal-squeak-l700/

pete has added the clutch pdf on post 6 - which will help you.

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I did spray as described in post 16 from above link but before have red it...That is why I used WD-40 and squeak gone for few months, after that I did it again.

Can somebody confirm WD-40 is not good for rubber parts generally speaking?

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silicone grease/spray is for plastic and rubbers.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_219033_langId_-1_categoryId_165705

but I recommend changing the bush. this cured the squeak for me.

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WD40 makes rubbers/plastics swell.

Gearbox is shocking between 1st and 2nd. double declutching is the only way to shift swiftly and smoothly. A real shame.

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I have never driven an Avensis with the 5 speed gearbox. Does it suffer from the same sticky gear issue as the 6 speed gearbox???

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  • 3 months later...

A friend of mine had a problem engaging/disengaging gears (on another make of car) which he eventually traced back to a cheap clutch the previous owner installed. My friend replaced it with a good quality clutch which he claims made a big difference. I'm wondering if part of my problem is due to a faulty or cheap quality clutch. Can anyone recommend a good quality reasonably priced clutch for a 2008 T180 2.2 D D-cat

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  • 6 years later...

hello there i have a 2014 t27 toyota avensis 2.0d4d  with only 40k on it well i notice when im coming down the gears and moving into 1st gear as going into a tight lane it is tough to get into 1st gear .you guys any ideas and well thats true they must have squeeze 6 gears into a 5 speed box just wish was a 5 speed as going down the gears into 1st gear is a bit hard 

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On 2/5/2021 at 1:27 AM, 2009joe said:

hello there i have a 2014 t27 toyota avensis 2.0d4d  with only 40k on it well i notice when im coming down the gears and moving into 1st gear as going into a tight lane it is tough to get into 1st gear .you guys any ideas and well thats true they must have squeeze 6 gears into a 5 speed box just wish was a 5 speed as going down the gears into 1st gear is a bit hard 

I think it is little hard in every car to get 1st gear when car is still moving. 

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Perhaps out of 2nd, increase revs to match road speed/1st gear ratio, engage 1st?

Before synchromesh most cars did not have synchromesh on 1st.  Before that double declutching was the norm.  Try it

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4 hours ago, JiiN said:

I think it is little hard in every car to get 1st gear when car is still moving. 

quick question and different topic buddy .ive got new break pads for my rear of the car but its got that epb and well what i have seen online needs to be calibrated to get pads in and all so that i dont loose the hill start auto release .by chance did you do it and well as im going to keep this car and future rear brake pads need changed would i need to buy this device Autel EBS301 Electronic Brake Reset Service Tool .id there any steps by steps how to change them .how do i calibrate the ebp so it works .im thinking if that much bother wondering should i just change the discs also 

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2 hours ago, 2009joe said:

quick question and different topic buddy .ive got new break pads for my rear of the car but its got that epb and well what i have seen online needs to be calibrated to get pads in and all so that i dont loose the hill start auto release .by chance did you do it and well as im going to keep this car and future rear brake pads need changed would i need to buy this device Autel EBS301 Electronic Brake Reset Service Tool .id there any steps by steps how to change them .how do i calibrate the ebp so it works .im thinking if that much bother wondering should i just change the discs also 

I have no idea. I haven't done it.

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2 minutes ago, JiiN said:

I have no idea. I haven't done it.

u never changed your rear break pads at all yet on your car.mine is a 2014 with 40k on the clock and think need new pads i hear them squeaking .i did them easy no problems on vw group cars but not yet on the toyota with epb .yet i do have a autel md802 all systems i bought a few years back its a great job 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autel-Maxidiag-Diagnostic-Scanner-Transmission/dp/B01IP5S864

 

just have not tried it on this car yet what u think would i dammage the epb should i get a pro

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