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CHERRYVILLE

Momentary Knocking Noise From 2.0 D4D Engine

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Hi all.

I have just replied to a related post re T/C and VSC warning lights coming on and thought I should mention my own scenario.

Model is a 2004 2.0 D4D T.Spirit which I have for past 7 years without a breakdown.

Today my wife was turning the car in off the main road heading home when there was, without any warning quite a loud rattling from the engine. This was only momentary as she switched the ignition off. Having to clear the roadway from her sudden stopping she restarted the engine to find all was quiet with no untoward noises or issues other than the VSC and T/C warning lights now staying on. Car drove the short distance home with no more noises but lights stayed on.

All fluids were then checked and were fine. No leaks to be found.

I started the car and all was well bar the lights being on. Started to switch the car on and off several times with it running for short periods only. After 6 or 7 starts I got an additional warning light staying on, the amber engine management one. Carefully listening to the engine all appeared fine as did the rev range of the engine. Switched off and then on again and this time all warning lights went out as they should and has remained the case since.

Can anyone suggest why there should be a sudden, quite loud knocking from the engine which has all recommended fluid levels. Oil and filter changed approx 1500 miles ago. Car runs fine and if asked I would have said the engine was 100% fine.

I did however have one previous experience when the engine gave a temporary loud knocking noise. This was a year ago when I hooked the car to my transporter to reverse park it with car on it around the side of my house.

The 4X4 was facing the other way and for handieness I used the Avensis. Upon starting to reverse the Avensis, with car on transporter ( slight uphill ) and the engine under what I would say ' some pressure but not extreme' the engine gave a terrible rattle as if the big-ends were all completely shot. Engine was switched off immediately all all fluid checks etc and were fine. Trailer unhooked and Avensis started up running perfect which it has continued to do ever since, until today . Recap, today's episode of engine knock occurred when engine was not under load and only at approx 1500 rpm in second gear.

It appears that the Avensis 2.0 D4D, at least my D4D has a tendency to, now and again display a rattle from the engine without any apparent lasting effects.

Car drives very well, nice and smooth and very economical. Uses no Oil between annual ( now 4000 mile) service.

Can anyone shed some light on this mysterious engine rattle which now having re-occurred concerns me.

Thanks in advance.

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Forgot to add my Avensis has 106,000 miles on it and always well serviced. from original owner and then myself.

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too much load on the gearbox? ... my wife likes to drive without changing gear and I've heard the same on occasion (1 or 2 secs) when she's dropped down at 5mph trying to pull off in 3rd... the following argument drowns out the noise, so it might last longer...

it's worth buying a code reader, I got mine a few years ago for £20 thanks to eBay and China ... should be cheaper nowadays

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Had not thought about that and it does tie in with my own experience when reversing under heavy load though the noise definitely did appear to be from the engine and a very worrying noise it was at the time. Lesson learned at the time hence me buying a 4x4 for trailer/ transporter work. I can not comment on what gear my wife was in when she heard the engine rattle earlier today.

She has never been noted to drive in too high a gear for given conditions at the time, on the contrary she tends to stay too long in the lower gears.

I have spent the evening trawling down the Avensis forums and read some very interesting posts which I can relate to and which I shall act on this weekend.

(a) Clean EGR valve and associated air pipes/manifold .

(b) Change fuel filter.

© Remove roof trims to seal the seam in the channel to cure the leak in the boot and hopefully also the one inside high up above the throttle pedal.

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.

( B) Change fuel filter.

© Remove roof trims to seal the seam in the channel to cure the leak in the boot and hopefully also the one inside high up above the throttle pedal.

Humidity in my Avensis is too high (after rain is 90%) and I can't find what is the source... I cant find any leakage everywhere.

Would you explain where exactly discover leak and where it is from?

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Usually a feel of the floor carpet will tell you where the leak is 'generally' from.

From this starting point one can look at the usual suspect areas of the actual leak.

Let us know what you find.

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From this starting point one can look at the usual suspect areas of the actual leak.

Let us know what you find.

The problem is that no damp on the carpets everywhere and I don't know suspect areas. No visible moisture in the boot as well, just inside the car air humidity is too high ( I think after rain) and in the mornings windows inside are too steamed up comparing to other cars around. That is why I measured humidity and usually it is 80-90%. i think outside is no more then 60-70%.

I asked you because you mentioned leak in the boot... Where exactly in the boot is it and what is the connection to roof channels?

My Avensis is liftback.

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My car is also a hatchback, late 04 t.spirit . I had a long term leak in the drivers foot-well area with visible dripping down at the throttle pedal.

A second leak has occurred from last winter in the passenger side of the boot, with the dripping onto the the boot mat behind the rear light cluster more specifically approx 3 inches back from the rear panel, or light cluster.

I searched numerous times for the source of this boot leak without success.

Posted a request for help on the forum and was told it is common for the hatchbacks to have leaks in the front and boot as I have.

Suggested to remove the recessed roof trims where I will then see the join for the roof section and the rear quarter panel etc.

This join / seam can often be the cause of these leaks.

I addressed the driver side problem first by first cleaning the full length of the seam and paid particular attention to the forward edge down behind the top corner of the windscreen.

While I was advised to rub down and repaint the channel this was not practical at this time given the very poor weather at present.

Instead after a thorough clean i put copious amounts of grease along the seam and packed as much as possible down in behind the top corner of windscreen. Replaced the channel trim and wiped away excess grease with tissues and then some panel wipe.

This has affectively cured the leak in the front ( right rear was always dry) which has seen some very heavy and prolonged rain since.

I have not had time to address the other channel in an effort to stop the leak in the boot which has the addition of the base of the tailgate shock absorber to be treated with grease as well.

Spent today cleaning the EGR valve and associated pipes.

Will do the passenger side roof channel later this week and report back results.

Wont have to wait too long for it to get tested with the Northern Ireland weather we are experiencing at present.

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Thanks Cherryville. Your situation is easier because you can see the dripping and after repair to see positive results... I say again, I can't see any leak that is why don't know what to repair/seal.Just know somewhere penetrate water...otherwise I can't explain myself high humidity inside.

If air cond. drainage is blocked I don't know where to look for dampness?

Do you suffer of windows steaming in the cold mornings?

Is it easy to remove roof trims?

If is possible, when you make next repair, take some pictures and post them here please, would be useful for people with the same problem.

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Hi JAPCAR. Have youchecked the side wellin the boot for signs of dampness ?

Yes my windows fog up in the mornings and require a quick wipe to aid viability. Worth mentioning at this time of year it only takes several trips in and out of the car in wet weather to introduce enough dampness on floor mats to create the fogging up inside the windows.

The roof trims are easily removed. Just go to the centre of the trim and ease it upwards with your fingernails, I did it this way.

To aid a quick clean-up afterwards I ran a strip of masking tape with the inner edge slightly over in the channel sides. Same around the top corner of windscreen.

You will find it very dirty underneath. Give it a thorough clean and dry well will tissue paper, must be very dry prior to applying anything to seal it.

One can carefully lift the ends of the front of the side and top rubber windscreen rubber strip, starting at the corner. Again clean out , picking out debris from under the top corner area and dry well. Approx 3 inches is enough to pull back, side and top. In your case I would just use some grease packed under top corner of windscreen where you cleaned out and also full length of the channel. Give underside on the channel a clean prior to refitting, Guide the front end into the little 'gripper' and work towards the rear, again guiding the end onto the gripper. There is also a panel joint below the tailgate gas strut. Clean and carefully examine it for any cracks or corrosion. Will do no harm to put a smear of grease here.

I am not proficient enough to put pictures on the computer, sorry.

Finally I would suggest you start a new thread with something like 'Fogged windows but no sign of leak' HELP.' Should do the trick.

Many on the forum here have lots of experience on such issues and hopefully will offer advice.

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Finally I would suggest you start a new thread with something like 'Fogged windows but no sign of leak' HELP.' Should do the trick.

Many on the forum here have lots of experience on such issues and hopefully will offer advice.

Thanks for the reply. I can do what you suggested but I would like to find leaking first...As i said I checked all common suspicious places and they are dry...

About new thread- when I bought the car a year ago, I asked the same question with no success...

There are few threads about leaking but always leaking consequence is visible and questions are how to find the place to seal it.

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I drive a 54 plate d4d which had a leak in the boot, both sides. This was cured by sealing round the rubber cable assembly where it meets the boot end of the roof. I had previously sealed round the rear lights but later found water getting in higher up/towards the doors by putting my arm in between the inner boot panel and the outer wing.

Hope this helps.

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