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Fitting New Boot Seal


Valvematic
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Open tailgate revealing hinge bolts.

(The ones that hold the hinge to the body).

Aygobackinside_zps8afe9971.jpg

Unbolt the tailgate from the car.

Hold it about 3" from the car.
No need to remove the strut or anything.

Pass the seal over the glass from the bottom.

Past the hinges.

Put roughly in place.

Bolt the tailgate back on. (Leave hinged full open).

Fit seal correctly.

Ian.

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Hi Valvematic, do you own a socket set?

Incidently may i suggest rather than removing both bolts fully see if you can remove one and undo the other sufficiently to pass the rubber seal through the gap between the car and the now unattached hinge and once you have got the seal through this gap replace the bolt just sufficiently so you can fully remove the other and pass the seal through the other side then of course replace the second bolt, doing it this way will keep the tailgate more secure whilst you are doing the job.

Also a second pair of hands may be advisable to hold the tailgate as you remove/loosen the bolts as it will move and you don't of course want it to 'drop' thus damaging your paintwork. When you refit/tighten the bolts use the paint marks to align the tailgate correctly and it should close exactly as it did before.

Good luck!

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Hi I own a socket set.

Beginning wonder if it would be easier to remove the wires. Undoing the hinges risks damaging the hinge seals.

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Myself personally i would remove the wires as i feel the weight of the rear hatch might be too much to deal with.

Let us all know how you get on.

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Mike169 had an excellent idea, that way it can be a one man job.

Are you replacing the seal or merely cleaning and reseating it ?

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The seal is not glued on but relies on a snug fit ( Unlike your old one :) ) firm equal pressure is the key... post-41902-0-04847100-1393526707.gif

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Cheers mate and everyone else you have been most helpful. Here's to a dry boot. Works laptop doesn't take too kindly to sitting in water.

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Fitted the new seal tonight, removed the wires and momentarily unclipped the strut. New seal is a very tight fit in comparison. Seal was from a 63 plate write off.

Want it to rain now never thought I'd say that!

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Hi, if you want to test it out the 'game' is to shut a smallish person in the boot and attack the boot area with a garden hose squirting all around the seal area so the person in the boot can see if any leaks are coming in and if by chance and unfortunately there is still a leak then you on the outside being told by the person of the inside of the boot can identify the exact area of any problems but fingers crossed all will be good and no leaks.

Do let us all know how you get on as this topic has been very interesting!

Regards Mike169

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Hi, if you want to test it out the 'game' is to shut a smallish person in the boot and attack the boot area with a garden hose squirting all around the seal area so the person in the boot can see if any leaks are coming in and if by chance and unfortunately there is still a leak then you on the outside being told by the person of the inside of the boot can identify the exact area of any problems but fingers crossed all will be good and no leaks.

Do let us all know how you get on as this topic has been very interesting!

Regards Mike169

I don't think my nearly 3 year old daughter is upto the job she hates being in the car. Will ask my wife to partake tomorrow, of course I will let you know.

When I sealed my original boot lid seal with silicone it did improve things slightly.

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First of all well done for fitting the replacement seal...........have fun locking your wife in the boot, lol, to check for leaks whilst you go all around the seal area with your garden hose, also around the rear lights and what's known as the rear slam panel, that's the bit where the bottom part of the boot catch is bolted to as it usually has a seam where it joins the lower section where the number plate is.

Regards Mike169

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