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Mr.Fixit-Norm

P1135 Fault Code - Help !

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Hi All,

On a trip back from Ipswich to Lowestoft this afternoon ( about 40 miles from home ! ) my engine check light came on , first time since I've owned it ( 4 years ). I pulled into a lay-by and dug out the D900 Canscan OBD2 reader I carry and check the DTC's. The only one that came up was a P1135 code and the reader told me it was a Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction ?

Given where I was I took a gamble that it probably wasn't going to cause any major damage ( everything sounded and felt ok and she seemed to be running as normal. )

Got home ok and decided to check the net for any more info, I only came up initially with Bank 1 Sensor 1 as additional info so decided to fire off a query on here for more help. The cars a 51 plate 2.0l vvti petrol Rav4 with 117,800 miles on the clock.

Any help gratefully received , incidentally the scan tool I have can do live data and freeze and store it so I may be able to get more info - initial look at this gave a Fuel System 1 OL Fault ?

Cheers,

Norm

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Heater circuit goes o/c. Passenger side top one. If you measure between the black wires it should be around 15 ohms but probably won't be. Do a search on here as we have covered it before. I've had 2 replaced including that one.

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Just had a look on eBay and there's a Denso one on there for £83 , as a quick test I've reset the fault code and I'm off to see if. It comes on when I pick the wife up from work, if it does, looks like eBay.

Norm

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Hi Paul,

Thanks for that, will get the multimeter out tomorrow to confirm it. To be fair to the old girl, it's the first thing I've had go wrong in 4 years ! ( now I've done it !! )

Norm

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Hi mate if you need a proper oxygen sensor socket I have a set you could borrow, live in carlton colville so can't be too far from you if needed.

Phil.

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Hi Phil,

That would be good, I'll see what the multimeter says tomorrow ! I've been out twice since I reset it and it hasn't come back on? I've got a week before the MOT ( Sod's law ) .

My good lady has a hospital appointment at the Norfolk & Norwich on Tuesday so that should be a good test to see if the sensor really has failed. I'm not sure what parameters are needed to trigger the fault code, I would have thought that if the heater for the sensor has gone open circuit it shouldn't be able to be reset? Still , tomorrow may give more answers.

Cheers,

Norm

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Ok hope goes well, had similar fault when got my rav last year, reset it and three days later came back so mine was replaced under warranty I received when bought it, but needed sockets to remove sensors from my MR2 for new exhaust system so went and bought some. Let me know if needed.

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I can't remember exactly but the first one of mine was reset by Mr T and they didn't have the sensor in the workshop so they ordered one and I took it away. Driving it home the mil came back on after a few miles. On the second occasion I vaguely recall it clearing then coming back a few times before I got it changed. I believe ( but could be wrong) that the ecu looks for a range of resistance between the heater contacts and if it is outside these limits it goes into alarm.

The sensors can be a pain to remove without sometimes causing further damage from what I read. Don't do them with the engine stone cold is also something else I read. I no longer have the invoices from Mr T for the two they changed but from memory it was about £200 ish each. Once again searching on this forum will give much more info.

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Quick update, I've taken an ohms reading for the heaters on all four sensors they are as follows:

Bank 1 Sensor 1 ( A/F heater ) = 9.5ohms

Bank 1 Sensor 2 ( O2 heater ) = 19.5ohms

Bank 2 Sensor 1 ( A/F heater ) = 6.6ohms

Bank 2 Sensor 2 ( O2 heater ) = 19.2ohms

The car had been left overnight and started up for a few seconds to move it back from the wall to get to the bonnet, so the sensors were effectively cold ( about 10-12 deg C )

Interestingly the code I had was P1135 which is bank 1 sensor 1 heater fault - could it be the 9.5ohms reading is too high? Would anyone know what the value should be? I have scoured the net but can't find a definitive value.

Cheers,

Norm

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Quick update, I've taken an ohms reading for the heaters on all four sensors they are as follows:

Bank 1 Sensor 1 ( A/F heater ) = 9.5ohms

Interestingly the code I had was P1135 which is bank 1 sensor 1 heater fault - could it be the 9.5ohms reading is too high? Would anyone know what the value should be? I have scoured the net but can't find a definitive value.

From other threads on here 15 ohms has been quoted so I would say no.

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Further update, did mostly round town driving over the weekend, nothing more than about 5 miles still no light on, then today took my wife to an appointment at the Norfolk & Norwich Hospital, no light on all the way there ( about 33 miles ) nothing on the way back either after about a 2hr gap between the return journey.

When we got back into Lowestoft we stopped and parked up for about 10 mins whilst we popped into a shop, when we started up to come home the light came on again within a couple of minutes.?? As we pulled onto the drive the idle seemed erratic dipping below 500rpm then settled at about 650 ( at normal temp. She's about 750-800 ) I then stopped and plugged in the scan tool and the P1135 code was there again, I reset it started up and within 30 secs it was on again ! I reset it again and gave up at this point ( Lunchtime ! )

I think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a new sensor, especially with the MOT next week !

Norm

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Well I've taken the plunge and ordered the Denso one from eBay for £83.00 should arrive Thursday / Friday so it looks like I may need to take up Phil's kind offer of a loan of the special socket to fit it !

By all accounts of everything I've read on here and the net in general, the P1135 code is a very common one to see on Toyota's in general. This is going to be an expensive month - sensor + MOT + R/tax all in one month

Norm

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Does that come with the connector on the end or is it just bare wires? If it does then it is much cheaper than Mr T and it is several years since they repaired mine.

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Starting nights tonight until Friday morning, be up about 1 pm Friday if you need before weekend. If not pop round over weekend. The sensor I had fitted had correct plug on so straight swap over. Pm norm and I will give you contact details , address etc..

Phil.

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Does that come with the connector on the end or is it just bare wires? If it does then it is much cheaper than Mr T and it is several years since they repaired mine.

Hi Paul,

This is the eBay advert, I must admit I'd assumed it will have the correct connector given the listing details......

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261220437815&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

They're quoting it as a Manufactured by Denso and the part numbers seem to be correct , just got to hope it is correct, I'll fire off an email to them just to be sure although it wouldn't be to difficult to cut and paste it into the original plug which is in good condition with no corrosion.

Norm

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Just another thought, they recommend using a good anti- seize compound on the threads when putting new one in, given the high operating temp (1200 deg ) does anyone have any ideas on what to use ? I've got plenty of coppaslip but that may not be good enough.

Norm

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Hopefully be a case of just unplugging. Mine was £95.00 but changed under warranty by my trusted toyota garage in norwich as I bought the car from a dealer in wellingbough they agreed for ROYS MOTOR COMPANY to change it for me at there cost.

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Does that come with the connector on the end or is it just bare wires? If it does then it is much cheaper than Mr T and it is several years since they repaired mine.

Hi Paul,

This is the eBay advert, I must admit I'd assumed it will have the correct connector given the listing details......

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261220437815&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

They're quoting it as a Manufactured by Denso and the part numbers seem to be correct , just got to hope it is correct, I'll fire off an email to them just to be sure although it wouldn't be to difficult to cut and paste it into the original plug which is in good condition with no corrosion.

Norm

That part code rings a bell. Denso were OEM IIRC. Not sure about what compound to use on the threads but I believe you have to be careful whatever you use. The shop is just up the road from me.

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Yes Denso seem to be mentioned quite a lot in my Haynes manual as the OEM for many of the electronics. I've checked the specs on Copaslip and it's temp range goes up to 2000deg F and is list as ok for exhaust manifolds , spark plug threads etc so perhaps this will be ok.

Norm

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Today's update, round town driving has put the light on again, reset again before a 20 mile round trip tonight, afterwards light came on twice after resetting, it's getting more frequent now. I've left it on as the new sensor should be here tomorrow or Friday.

Must admit the scan tools live data looks interesting, I wonder if it's possible to find out what the various readings should be, say at idle cold, idle hot and may be at a predetermined rpm ( 2000? ) if anyone knows where to find this info maybe they could post it on here.

If I get a chance at the weekend I'll see if I can jot down all the data and the readings, never know someone on here may be interested !

Cheers,

Norm

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Hi Mike,

Yes, I think I might have found that one originally, that along with several other threads on Ravworld etc sent me in the right direction! Looks like the part number I've got is correct anyway. Given the age of the original thread I decided to start a new thread, I know people often moan on forums when someone starts yet another thread on the common topic, but often there are new members with new experiences and ideas who haven't posted on an old thread.

To me this is what makes the internet such an incredible place, imagine trying to sort a problem like this 30 years ago ( tell me about it I'm old enough to know ! ) you were limited to specialist magazines, friends who knew friends and at the mercy of main dealers or back street indies.

The other fantastic thing is it can put you in touch, even locally with people like Phil who's kindly offered to let me borrow the right tool to do the job !

Norm

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Before condemning a Lambda - check the electrical connector for security / corrosion - an increased resistance can trigger a fault code. Use a little electrical contact grease on the contacts. It's generally not a good idea to fit generic Lambdas - those where it's necessary to splice the wires. They were fine in the days of single wire units but things like the heater resistance on generic units may not match the spec for the car. Many Lambdas are supplied with anti-sieze compound already applied and covered with a plastic collar. Be very careful using any other compound or penetrating Oil type fluids for removing Lambdas. Many of these products contain silicones - the slightest trace can kill the electrode within the Lambda. Units are often damaged when attempting to remove using tools such as spark plug wrenches - Lambdas are 21mm across the flats whilst a spark plug is 22mm! A 21mm ring spanner is ideal for removing and fitting the pre-cat Lambdas on the 4.2 Rav.

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Gjnorthalls' answer is the best route to go down i feel and i totally agree with generic (Copy) lambda's, a bit cheaper maybe but you could be opening up a whole bag of trouble that you wish you never started.

Personally i would take this one to Mr T. and get them to fix it as i feel you may waste money trying to sort the problem, part by part, until you get there where as a main dealers garage may be able to diagnose the problem straight away making the job cheaper overall and of course you will get a g'tee on the work done.

Regards Mike169

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Hi Gjnorthall & Mike169,

I have checked the connections and they are clean, tight & corrosion free. Although the sensor is listed as a genuine OEM Denso one there was a suggestion from someone that they had bought one in the past that didn't have a plug on. I wouldn't have been happy if it had arrived like this but it turned up today, Genuine Nippon Denso part! sealed with the correct lead length and plug type.

Also came with with the threads pre-greased and a protective plastic cover over them.

The frequency with which the MIL is coming on following a reset along with the scan tool consistently giving the P1135 fault code and the live diagnostics data throwing up the Fuel system 1 OL fault means I'm as sure as I can be that the bank 1 sensor 1 needs replacing, especially given how common this fault seems to be.

To be honest I'd love to have the money to drive it ( or any other car I've owned ) into a local main dealer for anything that needs doing but the truth is I can't afford it ! I'm fairly handy when it comes to car work and have done some moderately serious repairs / mods in the past, ( clutch on a Riley 4/72 , valve stem Oil seals on an Orion and transplant a Vauxhall VX490 5 speed remote gear change gearbox into a Bedford CF Camper ! - outside my house ) although getting older and less supple I tend to leave the crawling underneath jobs to a local trusted indie nowadays.

Norm

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