2004 Celica Gen7 T-Sport - Unused For A Year (On Driveway) - Help!

[GoGGleZ^]

Hello Eveyone,

Due to unforseen cirumstances I have been unable to drive until recently and my car has not been touched for just over a year.

I have basically devised a list (from my own knowledge) of things which I may need to replace and service in order to get this car up and running and back to its original state. I am creating this post for you lovely people to comment on both what I have planned to do and also add any other information which myself and others may find useful if they are ever in this situation. The items below maybe overkill but I would love your feedback ASAP! :)

Replace Spark Plugs (x4)

Replace Oil Filter

Drain and Replace Engine Oil (Done alongside replacing oil filter)

Replace Fuel Filter

Drain Fuel Tank and fill with Premium Fuel (Done alongside replacing fuel filter)

Replace Air Filter

Replace Brake Pads

Replace Water + Wipers

Drain and Replace Coolant

Drain and Replace Brake Fluid

Drain and Replace Power Steering Fluid

Recharge/Replace Battery

[gazza1286]

Assuming your car was in order prior to being taken off the road you have compiled quite a list.

Some of the items on the list wouldnt deteriorate due to time.

The spark plugs - fuel filter - power steering fluid I would leave alone. (the filter isn't a service item anyway).

How much fuel is in the tank? If less than a quarter topping up will be all that's required. If the car had been idle for a decade I'd be more concerned.

I'd be more worried about seized calipers. But even then it's unlikely unless you've parked it on the seafront!

I'd also go round and and un-seize any bolt which may require loosening in the foreseeable.

Have the tyres suffered?

[GoGGleZ^]

The car was in full working order yes!

The fuel was on the redline when I stopped using the car so you're saying that topping it up will be fine?

My car is un-moveable at the moment as the brakes have siezed so they are first on my list to be looked at anyway! - Would that be the calipers thta need to be replaced or just abit of grease? I'm fairly clueless at this type of stuff.

The tyres seems fine by sight and dont seem out of shape either... how would I also check this?

A run-down of what I should do next should be gratefully appreciated gazza! :D

[crofter]

Personally I would first charge the Battery and see if the engine fires up,or even using jump leads.

Brakes have been known to be freed by rocking the car forwards and backwards gently under power which will break the seal of the friction material and drum/disc. this is the usual cause of brakes "sticking", not that the calipers are stuck out as the piston retracts when you release the pedal,so you may find that only the wheels that the handbrake holds will be stuck There is sometimes an alarming crack as they free up If this works make sure you drive off slowly and apply light pressure on the brake pedal whilst moving under power to clean away any residual rust on what would normally be the shiny parts

As previously stated many items you list will be unaffected, but carefully check the sidewalls of the tyres for cracks after addind any air needed

Del

[gazza1286]

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[gazza1286]

The tyres will let you know if there's a problem. If they look round they'll probably be fine.

You'll probably find that the calipers are fine. The discs will have rusted and might need replacing.

It's probably a case of wheels off - calipers off - pads out. Discs off. Clean everything up - rust will come off with 240 grit wet and dry. Use a C clamp to push the caliper pistons back in to confirm they're not seized. Put everything back together - pump the caliper pistons back out using the pedal. Assuming the engine runs then you're back on the road.

[GoGGleZ^]

Thanks for the posts guys, really helpful to me - ill let you know how things go!

[Mike169]

Hi, it's nice to see the way you are approaching the job. I think i would be tempted to get the car started and really try and drive it just a few feet re seized brakes............if you manage to move it then it will help unseize the disc pads in their carrier making them easier to get out.

Good luck! Mike169

[GoGGleZ^]

Hmm... not a bad costing for all the work to be honest!

I have managed to service the car (Battery, oil change, air filter etc) and the car started first time and is ticking away beautifully!

Unfortunately, after starting the work on the brakes, I noticed that the callipers on the rear needed replacing so I decided to purchase 4 new ones.

So far I have bought 4 x Brake Pad Sets (EBC RedStuff), 4x Brake Discs (EBC Premium), 4x Calipers, however I may need to replace something which I have no idea what its called but is used to hold the brake pads onto the disc and the brakepads... any ideas guys?

Also, I have been told by my mechanic (who lets face it would be biast anyway) that it is a bad idea to replace the calipers and brake etc myself as if I didn't bleed the brake system and fitted them slightly wrong, they could fail and seize up which would turn out to be mega expensive! - What do you guys think?

[GoGGleZ^]

bump

[edwardio]

As long as you bleed the system properly before you drive the car, you shouldn't have any issues. Just make sure you bleed the rear properly & do a bedding in process on the rear discs & pads just to be safe.

The other bit you mentioned, do you mean the Shims?

[GoGGleZ^]

If I'm honest edwaradio I have no idea, I might find someone near Northampton to sort this out for me as I think £350 labour for installing Calipers, Discs and Pads is kinda expensive don't you think? Do you know anyone from my area?

And yes.. it could be the possibly be the shims but I'm not sure -- its basically the device which the brake pads slot onto and the calipers connect/slot onto.

[edwardio]

Fitting discs, pads & complete new calipers is pretty easy. £350 is way too expensive. It should only take a couple of hours tops and that's taking it easy.

Shims go on the backs of pads to stop/reduce braking noise from clanging & vibrating pads when they come into contact with the disc. The actual pads are not physically attached to the caliper, but they do move back & forth along slider pins as you brake and release.

[Mike169]

£350, yea right, like Lee said look further, absolute tops £200 and he has gotta be good to charge that sorta dosh! The shims will be extra but no more than say £30 i am guessing!

Mike169

[edwardio]

I've just checked using a certified system and the job should take 1.8 hours.

[GoGGleZ^]

Yeah I was hoping for around the £250 mark and that price was including a coolant change, brake fluid change and an MOT!

I have contacted another company and they have said £293 without the !Removed! MOT!... Maybe I need to live in a different area, I was quoted 8 hour labour from the first guy.

Does anyone know a GOOD mobile mechanic around my area? I'm tempted to send my current one this forum link!

[Mike169]

Christian matey, £293, for the work is not too excessive if that includes the brake fluid, coolant change and them fitting the brakes you have supplied and the shims if you can get away with it.

An MOT is around £45 PLUS any repairs they do, so say £338 plus any MOT repairs if you can't do them isn't too bad, personally i would go for that one and impress upon the guy that includes any extra's on the brakes (The shims), they may be thin but they still cost dosh. Let us know how you get on, GOOD LUCK!

Mike169

[KidKoala]

If you aren't completely confident in what you are doing, leave the brakes for someone else.

I'd be looking for a friendly garage where I can pay cash, a recommendation is best.

Have you purchased all the brakes already? I don't understand why you have bought discs pads and calipers all round if just the rears were an issue...

[Mike169]

I am wondering if his rear calipers are the wind in type for the h'brake mechanism and he has mistaken them as being seized so i feel Christian should pay now to get the brakes put on professionally

[gazza1286]

If you can service your car you should be able to replace the coolant yourself. That's not an mot item so can wait especially as the weather is improving and there's no reason to believe it's deteriorated that much in the time the car's been standing.

Give the brakes a go yourself. You could always get a mobile mechanic to check your work afterwards - much cheaper. There are plenty of videos to refer to and if you take your time and do one side at a time you'll have the other side to compare to. Presumably the new rear calipers came with pad pins and springs? (your rear calipers are not wind-in type. They just unbolt). However you need to feel confident and don't even contemplate doing it without a trolley jack and axle stands.

The shims are available from decent motor factors or online from tcb parts or Brakes International. There not a necessity but if the old ones can't be reused are around £40 for a full set.

Costs are mounting.