Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Sluggish


alanpostman
 Share

Recommended Posts

my 1.0 iq has started to become sluggish between gear changes.im thinking it might be the spark plugs, so ive bought a set to see if it makes any difference.

would anyone know if you can just unbolt the throttle body and move it out the way to get to the centre plug. I noticed it is water cooled and wondered if you have to drain the system before you unbolt it.

my car has only done 30000 on a 59 plate and have read the plugs should last 6 years or 600000 miles. any help would be most grateful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Spark plugs could be causing the issue but on an early IQ the EGR is more likely the cause of your issues see here: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/136556-important-if-your-warranty-is-about-to-run-out/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also would like to know in advance of attempting to change the plugs myself of the 1.0l Ltr IQ if you need to drain the coolant, also if I need gaskets for throttle body before I remove it. the threads I have looked at do no tell me what the "art of the possible" is in this regard, if anyone knows it would be very useful to know in advance of trying to take it all apart.

Just so I don't end up with my IQ in bits without all the required parts in hand to put it back together !

Someone must know !

Regarding "sluggish" issue that does not sound like a spark plug issue to me !

Many thanks, Bob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the workshop manual for the 3 cylinder model it shows spark plug removal in 2 stages. The first

Remove Throttle with motor body Assembly

It shows a pic of the engine and indicates the relevent parts

1, water filler cap sub-assembly,

2, water inlet drain plug.

3, radiator drain plug

Method..

Loosen the radiator drain plug and collect the coolant. Dispose of it correctly.

Remove the water filler cap sub assembly

Connect the hose to the water inlet drain plug.

Remove the water inlet clip.

Pull out the water inlet drain plug.

Remove air cleaner hose

Remove throttle with motor body assembly

Disconnect the 2 water by-pass hoses.

Disconnect the throttle body connector

Remove 3 bolts, nut and the throttle body

Remove the gasket from the intake manifold.

Disconnect the 3 ignition coil connectors

Remove the 3 bolts and the 3 ignition coils

Remove the 3 spark plugs

Hope this helps

David

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


For the 4 cylinder it starts with the removal of the windscreen motor. But there is lots to do after that. You might want to contact me if your contemplating that.

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David,

thank you for this useful post.

Would it be possible to illustrate it with the pic showing the engine and the location of the relevant parts?

Christophe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Christophe

Its not easy to grab the pages in the manual to display on here. Circuits can be saved as a pdf but the rest with illustrations have to be saved in document readers like word unless you can look and come up with an idea. Or people who want the information pm me with an an email address.

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the throttle body a sealed unit. because you don't have to remove the 2 water pipes in order to move it out of the way of the coils. just want to be sure when I loosen the throttle body it don't start leaking water into the inlet manifold.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the throttle body a sealed unit. because you don't have to remove the 2 water pipes in order to move it out of the way of the coils. just want to be sure when I loosen the throttle body it don't start leaking water into the inlet manifold.

cheers

Great question ! after looking under my bonnet I was asking myself the same question !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alan pm me with an email address and i will mail you all the info i have about it

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car has started running better, not sure why but thinking it was dodgy fuel from morrisons. so I took it for a 100 mile motorway blast to burn all the fuel off then filled the tank with proper fuel and seems to run ok now. Fingers crossed and not changing the plugs now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't suppose that Morrisons were having a fuel delivery when you filled up there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not sure if there was a delivery that day, but my car is running like a dream now, so sticking with proper fuel from now on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Mine runs best (smoother and better MPG) on Shell V power, Tesco and other supermarket stuff is rubbish,

I can only "assume" partly because its a 3 cyl then better fuel = smoother engine ?

The best fuel does cost a bit more though !

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, fuel deliveries, a bit of a pain for those filling up. However, this depends on the garage concerned and when the deliveries are. Obviously not all deliveries can be in the quiet hours, and not all garages have the tanks to bypass the problem of all that fresh fuel spewing into the Diesel or any of the varieties of Petrol on sale. Of course, the issue is that water exists in fuel along with 'particles' or sediment on the bottom of the tank. In a large tank when dipped with a pole it can show -when the right paste is used- how much water is in and where. Usually it collects into a single amount but when the tanker dispenses it's load, it all gets churned up. If the garage does not wait long enough, or continues to allow the tank/s to be used by customers, then this is when you may experience issues with the fuel. I suppose it's a bit like the lottery, only, if you get issues with bad fuel, it is not as much fun as a win on the lottery. You could approach the garage with the bad fuel and ask them when their deliveries are, or if they had a delivery the day you bought fuel from them, see if they fess up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bobneale,

if your car runs better on Shell V Power Nitro which is 99 Ron minimum,

then your car will run equally as well on Tesco Momentum 99 Which is a Minumum 99 Octane

and which is likely to cost you £1.50 less for 30 litres,

So that will buy you an extra litre of Momentum over the V -Power.

Since you get 15 miles per litre, then you win, car will run the same if you get better performance or more efficient running from 99 Octane, and go further for the same money.

Shell like to keep their Additives.Cleaners secret, but Sodium is just Common Salt.

There is no magic to it, if your engine benefits from a higher Octane then thats that.

100-102 RON in Mainland Europe can be a lovely thing.

In the UK 'Super unleaded' only needs to be 97 RON, so you need to check which are 97 or 98 ron

Sainsbury Super is Minimum 97, so are some others and some are 98 RON minimum.

Not always accurate or up to date.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

george

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well George in theory you are right however I did try Tesco Momentum 99, and it was not as good as Shell V power for smooth running or MPG perhaps that was a inaccurate "one off" test I should perhaps try Tesco Momentum 99 again.

When I got the good results from Shell V power I just stuck with it from then onwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If Hypermileing and 100 mpg runs interest you, then maybe worth looking closer at fuels.

You will not find much from Royal Dutch Shell, they just meet minimum like any other Fuel Producer.

Paying 5-10 pence a litre for additives and Advertising and Sponsoring Formula 1 might seem worth it,

if it does actually perform better than other 99 octane fuel.

Putting them on a Dyno is a good plan, and shows the Efficiancy the Engine Runs at in different rev ranges.

As it is, there is little differences with a 1 Litre 3 cylinder iQ actually.

Toyota have it pretty right for various ambient temps and fuels.

*Real proof is on the road and does the more expensive fuel cover its extra cost,

or does it save you money on consumables, Oil, Filter, Plugs, Exhausts etc.*

Tesco Momentum Produced by 'Greenergy' will give you all the spec of their fuel.

http://www.tescopfs.com/our-fuel/testing_results

There main thing is the testing between Tesco 95 ron, and Momentum 99 @ 5 pence a litre more.

but most 95 RON in the UK is much like Tesco Supermarket fuel.

Easier to Hypermile in some vehicles with the like of Hyperflo 250 @ 102 ron

But then that costs me £67 for 25 litres.

& we do not buy it really for its economy, just its constancy (Quality) when a MAPing and engine to the Octane of fuel being used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership