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Looking For Some Advice On Alignment And Suspension


roks
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Hi All,

Recently noticed front right tyre wearing on the outside, only noticeable if you look closely.

While checking around, noticed that the bump stop on both of the shocks have cracked split, no oil leaks or anything, looks clean.

I've decided to replace the bump stop and the dust cover, if the shocks are bad, I'll replace them. I look at complete struts from a 2006 model from scrap yard, they look worse than my 2004, gritty under the dust cover. Mr. T quoted £65 each shock only, is that reasonable?

Should I change the rear as well? Rear ones cant check the bump stop easily without taking them off.

I know the front will need alignment, but will the rear need to be aligned as well?

Is it worth going to Mr.T for a free visual inspection? Perhaps they will find other work that may need doing and I can do the work at the same time? Or will they sting me with something.

For the alignment, do I need to go to Mr.T or any garage?

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Think going to the trouble of removing the struts to renew the bump stop will be false economy if you do not replace them , if you are intending to keep the car.

Is the cracked bump stop actually causing a problem ? - never noticed /looked at mine - will have to look.

When you have a new and old strut side by side, off the car, its soon very obvious how little resistance the old ones have, even though thy may appear ok when on the car.

Do the rears need changing, well 50/50 on that one, again 11 years old and how many miles ... ?

Mr T shock price, front or rear at £65 ? ECP lowest front price is £80 ?

Alignment - until recenty it was nearly always a case of front wheel tracking, now garages want to offer four wheel alginment at twice the price, though when pushed they do also offer just front wheel tracking at half the price.

Nearly all the drive in tyre places will do tracking as well as nearly all garages.

Mr T giving free visual inspection ?? you mean they will look at the wear on your tyre and say its needs aligning ?

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I am in two minds whether to keep the car or not, probably will need a clutch soon. I am looking for a new model, maybe 2006 colour collection with low mileage but I don't want to rush into that, so I'd like this one to keep going until then.

"Is the cracked bump stop actually causing a problem ?"

Well, the front makes a squeaky noise when going over speed bums, and pulling into the drive way. I assume that's what's causing it, they short coming off.

"Do the rears need changing, well 50/50 on that one, again 11 years old and how many miles ... ?"

Just gone 100K, when I take off at the lights, the front seems to lift up and rear seems to sag a bit, I guess its normal? Also makes squeaky noise when I land after a speed bump.

Mr T shock price, front or rear at £65 ?

£65 for the front, £70 for the rear. (£229 including the bump stop, dustcover, and rubber seat for spring, and £198 for rear). I have bought the KYB dust protection kit for £25, I'll get the shocks from Mr.T if required.

Alignment - Mr.T wants £75, local garage £30+vat

"you mean they will look at the wear on your tyre and say its needs aligning ?

I was hoping they will check the ball joints and bushings. I guess I'll leave that for the MOT guys.
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Doubt they will do a suspension chekc for free, as you say that part of the mot or a chargable garage job.

Before you replace everything, perhaps try using a bit or white grease spray around the joints and / or neat washing liquid around the rubber bushes to see if that quietens your squeaking.

Could just be just a 'dry' bush or bolt.

Most older car will make some noise going over humps etc, just depends if they are too loud ..?

The more you listen the louder they get ...

Edit,

Also have a little knock from somewhere at the front, but the mot guy could not find any play, though he and others say that the front anti roll bar bushes are prone to wear and knocking.

One of my to do list this summer is to change them just in case, not worth stripping out to check without replacing them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2dfyNXClVU

Also the drop link bars on the ends of the anti roll bar seem to be a common replacement, though cheap enough.

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I replaced both the drop links last year after I got a advisory on one of them last year. I am due for a MOT this week, lets see what they say.

I was thinking of loosening the anti roll bar bushing to squirt some grease, where to best support the car to take the pressure off the bar?

I have backed off replacing the bump stop and dust cover, as you say false economy. I am going to zip tie the bump stop for the time being.

Front springs look in good condition, one of the rear spring has some flakes coming off from bottom coil. I might do all 4s but some day but right now money is a bit tight now.

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I was thinking of loosening the anti roll bar bushing to squirt some grease, where to best support the car to take the pressure off the bar?

Would think undoing the drop links is the only way ...? with them disconnected you might be able to feel if the bushes are badly worn ...??

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Thanks, I'll give it a go.

Got the wheel tracking done, the computer showed the left wheel is out, although the right tyre is wearing unevenly.

post-123867-0-61956800-1434033938_thumb.

After a few minutes, it would show the right is out for a split second and then back to the left. Also he could not get it dead centre, the guy thinks its the wind and he could be waiting all day etc.. Does this look OK?

The rear right wheel is also out but the guy say he cant do anything as it not a adjustable, fixed to the axle?

I did not notice any difference in the handling when I drove back, I guess I'll just have to watch the type wear.

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I did notice any difference in the handling

Don't know if that means there was or was not any difference in the handling ?

On the odd occassion I have had tracking done, never noticed any difference in the driving / handling other than the steering wheel was then correctly at dead centre.

If you are going to keep the worn tyre on that right wheel, its going to be hard to see if its wearing evenly, plus the fact its already worn unevenly might make it still wear unevenly even with correct tracking... ?

Its so long since I had tracking done, certainly no computers in those days to give you a print out.

Thought a young man like you with all the techno stuff would be able to explain that diagram to me ... lol

Re the anit roll bar bushes, if you can get under the car you can readily see the inner sides of those bushes quiet clearly , think if they were badly worn you would see some deformation / gaps in them.

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Hi Oldcodger,

Sorry just edited "not".

I tried deciphering the prin out, it gave me a headace :).

I had a visual at the bushings, it looks solid, no visual deformations or does not look deteriorated.

Just realise MOT expired today, booked visit tomorrow morning. Will the torn dust cover on the shock absorbers get a advisory or worse?

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Well cannot say I understand all of that print out, but the first 2 values on the left hand side are caster and camber 2.25 and 0.51

The 3rd value is Toe 0.11 ( or tracking) though the print out does seem to indicate, by the green part, that there is a wide margin (?)

According to the Haynes manual the Toe setting is 0.06 ( 0 degrees 06minutes) so at 0.3 and 0.4 thats quiet close;( assuming that printout does mean 0 degrees 3 minutes and not 0 degrees and 30 minutes ?)

Did you use a mobile service, with you saying the wind was a problem ?

As for the torn shock dust cover, would think its an advisory as its just a dust protecting cover, not something that directly affects the mechanical function or safety, unlike a cv or steering rack rubber gaiter, which if damaged could soon cause a mechnical failure.

Cannot you superglue it together ?

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Just in case you have not yet booked your MOT, are you aware thay your Local Council has a MOT test centre ?

The advantage is that they can only do testing on pprivate cars, they cannot do any repairs or even recommend any garage, so you get a totally unbiased test. I go there all the time.

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Passed MOT this morning, only thing that made me lough was that a advisory, "Engine cover fitted obscuring some components in engine bay." never had that one before. What do they check under the cover?

The alignment was done in a garage, with wide open doors to the ceiling so the wind was gushing in but I wouldn't have thought that affected it. Apparently its very sensitive equipment.

What I don't get is the reading next to the steering wheel, on the left, in red, 12.8', should that have been corrected too?

Emission test passed with flying colours so I don't understand why I get the p0420 once a while. Let see if it pops up again, as the intake gasket is changed.

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1. Great news, you now know most suspension parts are sound, but its not a 100% guarantee everything is good.

Think your shocks must be ok otherwise he would have mentioned it.

The engine covers /under trays , never had such a comment, but looking around seems it a standard comment , as many modern cars have such large covers, some almost covering the whole underside.

Found this web comment which explains it

He is advising you that he is unable to fully inspect the vehicle due to the presence of engine covers and undertrays. Due to current MOT laws he is NOT ALLOWED to remove the covers for further inspection.
So now, if 2 weeks down the line an obscured (by panels) fuel/brake/PAS hose bursts under pressure and you take the car back and ask for a VOSA appeal, he has covered his ***** sufficiently.

2 If its such sensitive equipment why doesn't he close the doors for 5 mins ??

3, As this link shows the SAI is no adjustable, Haynes manual shows it should be 11.19 - so your seems close enough.

http://www.anewtoronto.com/wheel%20alignment.html

4. Also had similar problems like that on my old Avensis, could be many things, dicky sensors, ecu etc etc.

Only advice I could give is if replacing the oxygen sensors, stick to genuine Toyota ones or a genuine s/h one from a scrappers.

If its only giving a check light then clearing itself I would say live with it until it becomes a more 'hard' fault.

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The mot guy had the car rigged up and lifted, flicked a switch, the machine was shacking the car and turning steering wheel at the same time while he checked with his light. I never been to one of those, always been my local garage, two man job.

Thanks oldcodger, that link has good info, much appreciated.

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