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2008 D4d Engine Management Light + Trc + Vsc Error


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Hi Guys,

A while back I had an issue with my car - I was driving along and I suddenly lost power - the engine management light came on, the TRC OFF light came on and the VSC came on. I managed to limp it to the garage and they checked and told me the EGR valve was "coked up". They cleaned it and replaced it in the car - reset the computer and all was ok.

That was last february - around 11,500 miles ago - I'm now due my next service (plus discs/pads, air con service and a couple of rubber bushes need replacing on the steering) but tonight I noticed the lights were all on again - however the car is not in limp mode, its fine except the lights being on.... Could it be that the EGR was coked up again or is this a sign of something else?

I did read about blanking the EGR - maybe this would stop it coking up - but does it cause any other problems?

Also, Around 3 weeks ago I had a different garage replace my CV Joint - it took them around 5 hours and in the end they had to use a grinder to cut it off. They fitted a brand new one all fine - I've spoken to a lot of people who all say they have never ever known a garage have to cut the cv joint off and that I should find a different garage.... What do you think? The mechanic said to me in 25 years he had never had to grind one off.

What are your thoughts?

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Hi Drew,

I've never heard of a CV having to be cut off, but that doesn't mean it would never need to be done. There is a lot to be said for replacing the whole shaft, especially if you are paying someone else the labour to swap out the CV joint. 5 hours is unreasonable for that job though,if they are professionally qualified technicians.

Really the only way to tell what's triggering the lights is to do a scan, you can get hold of a reasonably priced scanner albeit specific to the vehicle type from Amazon, Fleabay or similar. If you have an Android phone, the Torque Pro app with a suitable bluetooth ELM327 adaptor available for about £10 will read the engine codes only. I found the EGR on the later Toyota diesel is prone to coking and needs to be cleaned regularly. I do mine about every 5k but that's probably overkill, every time it's serviced I'd expect it to be needed though.

I looked into blanking plates, and yes they are available for about £3, but you also need some electrickery to fool the ECU or it will go into limp home. The trickery is also available but is more expensive. The valves themselves seem to be very reliable on the 1AD/2AD engines so for me the best solution was just to keep it clean.

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Luckily they didnt charge me 5 hours labour as they'd quoted a price not an hourly rate :)

I bought a lexia 3 programmer for my old peugeot and typically it only works on french cars so I'll need to be selling that now lol, I may end up just buying a reader so I can check things like this rather than having to go to a garage.

Is there a good guide online for cleaning the egr that you use? Do you need any special tools or fluids etc?

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I think there's a guide on this site somewhere, but really it's very simple to do. You'll need some carb cleaner, rags,12mm socket etc and allan keys to break apart the valve.

Let's see if I can get this in the correct order:

1. Remove engine cover and plastic trim from front of engine bay.

2. Unplug cable from EGR (located at front of engine)

3. Loosen recirc pipe at EGR and cylinder head and remove, taking care to keep gaskets

4. Loosen bolts through EGR to manifold and withdraw EGR valve. It will just about slide off if you wiggle it.

5. Now you can see the coking in the manifold. Carefully remove using various tools and spray with carb cleaner (sparingly as poss as using too much makes vehicle more difficult to start afterwards). Wipe with clean rag. You can also use an old toothbrush.

6. Scribe the edge of the valve where the 2 halves join with a screwdriver. This makes it easy to know how the halves go back together. Loosen the allan keys and split the valve. Now you can move the valve manually without the actuator present. Clean as in 5 above. You can clean the valve to a lesser extent without splitting it using screwdriver and rag/carb cleaner.

7. Reassemble valve and refit to engine in reverse sequence of above. Remember to plug in the cable or you'll trigger the MIL.

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Thanks for that - I'm waiting for this to arrive however yesterday all the warning lights have disappeared - so possibly the EGR wasn't fully blocked and its now cleaned itself or it is an intermittent fault. Once the reader arrives I'll check it :)

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