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tooSavvy

I'm in for the LONG HAUL... :<)

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I have bought myself a T4 dubbya 'mid section' exhaust box....

EEC EVW573 EXHAUST SILENCER

thumb?m=1&id=979303&lng=en

..... I want to see if this 50mm  'straight thru/resonator' allows some EasyBreathing 😜

Replacing my stock back box.

piccies, as always

2sav

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I have bought myself a T4 dubbya 'mid section' exhaust box....

EEC EVW573 EXHAUST SILENCER

thumb?m=1%26id=979303%26lng=en&key=091b561dfc05948354184e25fc8abb5e1ff02162cd727fe71ad6a2c51f1c110c
..... I want to see if this 50mm  'straight thru/resonator' allows some EasyBreathing 
Replacing my stock back box.
piccies, as always
2sav
Can I just say as a general comment on your whole approach how much I admire the way you're going about improving your Carina.

I do get it. I have a 2002 Avensis vvt-i with 181,000 miles on it and the longer I have owned it the more determined I am to keep her on the road aswell as improve and modify it too.

When my back box went I bought a 4 foot length of 2-2.25 inch bore pipe from the scrapyard for £4 cut and welded it to make e a straight through from the cat back lol

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I did something similar with a Nissan vaccum operated eco twin choke from a 12v 1.4 sunny i had for a few months. A lot of the vaccum was ported meaning it was indirect and surpressed dampening the signal presumably to make it more sedate and economic. I got rid of any surpuflous vaccum lines and took it straight from the inlet manifold. That in itself made a hell of a difference maybe not to power but to responsiveness a great improvement.

As for webers I grew up with twin choke DMTL, DCFs, DGAVs, DCNF, and DCOEs most of the twin chokes were had cable operated secondary barrels unlike later more economic carbs in the late 80s early 90.Mostly it was with Fords Capris, Cortinas, escorts and Fiestas that I had webers.

I built a Redtop with Twin 45s and an mk1 XR2 with twin DCNFs lol..... I still miss carbs, you can't beat them lol

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A nice set, and I love buying tools :D
I know that feeling, any excuse will do. Tools and music are never a waste of money lol

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6 minutes ago, fastbob72 said:

I did something similar with a Nissan vaccum operated eco twin choke from a 12v 1.4 sunny i had for a few months. A lot of the vaccum was ported meaning it was indirect and surpressed dampening the signal presumably to make it more sedate and economic. I got rid of any surpuflous vaccum lines and took it straight from the inlet manifold. That in itself made a hell of a difference maybe not to power but to responsiveness a great improvement.

As for webers I grew up with twin choke DMTL, DCFs, DGAVs, DCNF, and DCOEs most of the twin chokes were had cable operated secondary barrels unlike later more economic carbs in the late 80s early 90.Mostly it was with Fords Capris, Cortinas, escorts and Fiestas that I had webers.

I built a Redtop with Twin 45s and an mk1 XR2 with twin DCNFs lol..... I still miss carbs, you can't beat them lol

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I'm going to clogg onn with my trusty AISIN 2#, with a choke op mod - per Utoob 😜

2sav

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Jeezzzee 😵

44875361642_29c5710abb_c.jpg

😱

That's a really Big Hole 

2sav

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Been on a recce, under the car, and assessed need for joints + bends for effective installation...

The observant among us will have noted:

2x 'free' bends @different angle.

1x sleeve end (will connect a butt join, if required)

MOT in the morning

2sav      😀

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Straight through MOT <as ever> but advises I get a tracking.

Booked into my local tyre guys [ATS Wallsend] 1pm today 

2sav  👍

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It seems it is tyre/width which is an issue - tracking spot on.

Manager kindly offered to swap front to back so the wear gets me averaged out over the set... I'm going to raise my pressures by a few pounds at the font. 😼

2sav

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It seems it is tyre/width which is an issue - tracking spot on.
Manager kindly offered to swap front to back so the wear gets me averaged out over the set... I'm going to raise my pressures by a few pounds at the font. 
2sav
Overall that's a damn good pass if that's the only advisory you had. This year back in May mine passed with just the need of a side light bulb but an advisory simply stating I had a custom suspension system fitted and custom exhaust both of which are true.

I wanted to say do you still intend to lower it at some point. I fitted a full coilover set up with adjustable height, spring rate, preload and adjustable top mounts settling at a 50mm drop but more at the back so the car sits level rather than tail high as the T22 Avensis, particularly 5 door hatchbacks always do.

The handling, steering, grip, responsiveness etc has been totally transformed. I drove the Celica several hundred miles, it's on low profile 17s,lowered 30mm and is a two door sports car yet my Avensis is by far the safer, more responsive, controllable car and will go through the twisted country lanes at a greatet speed than the Celica ever would.

All sounds too good to be true but there is a price, there's always a cost to pay in the end. In this case it's the tracking and tyre wear issues that are the cost for all that improvement.

The castor and steering angle are far different than factory now so the standard wheel alignment settings don't work so well. I've spent the last two years trying out all different wheel alignment relationships and have found settinga that work.

Some for tyre longevity, a middle of the road set up and what I call fast road settings which make the very best of my suspension upgrade in dynamic performance which is the set up I prefer but my front tyres will be close to the bone after 6 months at the best.

Of course, the upgraded chassis means that I tend to drive harder and corner at higher speeds putting more loading on my tyres than typically an Avensis would expect in daily use but there it is. I'm in the process of building a 2ZZ-GE for it to give it the power to match its chassis.


When I saw you talk of tracking I thought I'd give my experience of it with a lowered suspension set up, I'm sure I read that you. intend to lower it.

Btw, I'm still using the standard Imola 15inch alloys came with the Avensis Vermont. I have 17 inch alloys that I could use but I. dr8ve regularly on country lanes and A roads which in the North are rough as a***holes as they say. Low profiles and big alloys would mean it'd be like driving with solid suspension and wooden tyres. Yes I could go round Tescos roundabout even faster than I can now but out on the open road the set ups too inflexible plus with a profile of 215/40/17s it would grip well. Hold, hold, hold, hold then adhesion would go just like that. On standatd 15s and 60 profile tyres I can enter the corner hard yet on worn down remoulds or even cheap part worn tyres it will progressively give way more and more, that's plenty of warning the tyres are on their limits.

Fast country roads are not the same as motorway service stations and urban roads, that little bit of acceptable g8ve in such a well located suspension system gives that little bit of flex for rough roads where the camber goes in all directions while allowing some feedback on grip and better, quicker handling close to the limit than the typical lowered suspension, big alloys and low profiles ever could

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Cheers for that m8

My car is strictly 'shopping trolly' fodder. If you lookup my annual mileage between MOTs its around 8k. No 9am office cavalry charge for me!

The factory suspension remains unaltered - all new struts fitted when I got the car. 👍

GR8 car.... Last 'true' Jap build/design Carina .... Bean counters cut into all aspects of Carina E, never the same again IMO

2sav

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On 10/4/2018 at 9:16 AM, fastbob72 said:



The handling, steering, grip, responsiveness etc has been totally transformed. I drove the Celica several hundred miles, it's on low profile 17s,lowered 30mm and is a two door sports car yet my Avensis is by far the safer, more responsive, controllable car and will go through the twisted country lanes at a greatet speed than the Celica ever would.

 

 

That's good to know, I plan on fitting BC-Racing coil overs (when they show up) and I'm also looking at a few other suspension parts. I'm hoping it will transform the car.

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..... Not really my post subject.....

Moving on!

I have ordered some exhaust paste v.cheap + free post! Not much reason to wander around Halfrauds at those prices.

However.... Halfrauds DO stock exhaust clamps 60mm & 55mm for a very reasonable £1.60. Pick up in store/reserve to collect.

Web prices are cheaper but yet to find a 'free-post' price, one that doesn't add £5 after you select your sizes

Getting closer all the time 😀

2sav

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I stopped using them years ago mate, never seen such a bunch of rip off artists, the price they charge for Oil beggars belief.

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I was doing a bit of 'tatty paint dressing', at the famed 'rear arch/sill join', and managed to create a smoll hewull in the arch bottom... Bit of liquimetal will gummy a patch in it (postage stamp sized).

45202609781_b3c5590a38_z.jpg

I shot it back, up the ramps... so as to improve access - while my paint coats dried I got underneath and did some measuring up.

The old back box is the same length as the VW one [16 1/2"] so I'm confident on picking up on the existing bobbin hooks. The car comes with 3, two rear & one front, but the VW box is so light I'm going to use just the rearmost one.

Just waiting for exhaust assy paste and it will be GameOn 😲

2sav

 

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Looks okay that, and agreed on some of the prices in a certain shop.

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I'm concerned my VW box doesn't have lugs *attached, to suit my bobbins/ rubber mounts.

* no welder 😞

I really don't want a U-clamp on the exit pipe with a spar going up under the boot floor >> bit skaggy, IMO

I'm going to make an oval 'wrapper' in sheet (they are available online for too many ££) with an eye on top, taking the uplinking bracket up 'out of sight' >> much neater & factory looking 👍

2sav

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That's good to know, I plan on fitting BC-Racing coil overs (when they show up) and I'm also looking at a few other suspension parts. I'm hoping it will transform the car.
It absolutely should do but the best advice or tip I could give for when you fit them is buy a pair of new rear drop links, even if yours survive removal they'll never handle their new position

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* can we keep coilovers on Paul's 'White Carina' thred.... 🤔

2sav

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* can we keep coilovers on Paul's 'White Carina' thred.... 
2sav
No problem at all, sorry for derailing the thread so far off topic

Was looking at the rear wheelarch photo you posted. Are you just planning on fixing it with chemical metal or something similar. I could see that being good enough to repair the hole so it looks like it was never there but looking at the photo and perhaps it's juat me but the few inches of the sill where it meets the arch look like there may be more holes or at least thinner corroded steel under the paint.

Btw, don't think I'm gloating I went to wirebrush both rear arches, rear floor and rear suspension mount area and found I have a hole about the size of a 50p in my n/s rear sill

Maybe it's just the photo but that rear section looks like there's evil chemistry going on under the paint, the sort you want to kill dead now before it spreads :(f35cebe189d698e427ed3dc95e5d0e92.jpg

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Gahh... The curse of the Laser Light Pen ho ho..

Nope 'brick outhouse solid'.... As this is painted with a semi gloss grey [Lidl] not matching factory metallic bloo.... It Looks $H.ITTY

Solid ftw

2sav

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44425392185_f27a9a8c8c.jpg

I can see clearly now, the rest of the pipe has gone...

43522981000_6b21b09b91.jpg

This clamp will grip the lip and allow the hanger/bobbin to be attached.

30398508407_6e7e1597e9.jpg

This cobble-up is made possible because the original layout includes a sleeve [cut off & here reused for the butt joint of the up curve]

2sav

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