flybywire

Vibration at 2000rpm - again and again

Recommended Posts

So many topics on this but I have just bought a 2010 IQ 1 Litre manual with 3500 miles and it is making the infamous vibration noise at just on 2000 rpm :sad:.  I love the car and it behaves perfectly apart from when going through 2000rpm when it vibrates.  I have tried V-power and redex but no change.  The car has the later EGR valve.  There are so many posts on the topic in the forum but none seem to have come up with the definitive answer - clutch, EGR, mounts  3 pot engine which is unbalanced.  Before I spend out on a new clutch or EGR valve has anyone found out what the cause is?  As I say, it is a fantastic car but having to work round the 2000 rpm vibration is a pain which Toyota should have fixed.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

A lot of people say it's a clutch issue.

Weirdly enough I get similar issues with my 1.0 CVT and it brings my urine to a boil when I drive it. I will be selling soon to buy an Auris Hybrid. Whether it's because the IQ has the 3 cyclinder engine, possible clutch, EGR.. Whatever the issue is, it's a pain in the balls having to chase it. Especially in your situation where it only has 3500 miles. Its either a really annoying defect or an extreme urine boiling characteristic of the car. Either way I think I've had enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

General consensus is it's the clutch. A new one will sort it, but it will wear again and vibrate. Here's the thread I started which has had a lot of technical stuff dded over the last couple of weeks.

For me, it's not an issue. 300 miles from a £30 tank of town driving, no road tax, and a lovely looking little car far outweighs the vibration.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jamski, that puts my mind to rest on the matter.  I too love the car and running costs.  Have just blanked out the noise (in my mind at least) as the clutch has only done 35000 so its got a while to go before it needs changing and that looks to be expensive with the labour costs.  Need to find an independent Toyota specialist as I doubt the run of the mill gearbox places will have experience of the IQ.Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Just a wee note. Our car (1.0 manual 59 plate with 70,000+ miles) has the same problem, and usually I 'ease' that problem by backing off a bit on the pedal depression, and then bring it back up again. Depending on the gradient or road it can work a treat. Probably best on a 'level' road when having to change up as speed limit increases -as in accelerating from 30 to 40mph. Also, that 40mph limit sits around the 2000 rev mark... it is so annoying. However, I try not let it get me down, as it is easy to let negatives do that. As annoyed as I get, I try to remind myself of all the good things the iQ has brought to my motoring, as that vibration has to be the worst.

  Don't know if this is related to the vibration, but our exhaust came apart yesterday (Monday 16th Jan, and had only started blowing a bit on Saturday) at the front of the back box. I had to cut the rubbers holding the exhaust pipe and back box, as trying to wire it up so it didn't scrape on the road was not working. Car is in the dealers waiting for the part to arrive from Belgium. No idea yet how much the 'Ouch' part is going to be, just hope it's not too expensive as I have been saving my pennies to get the wheels refurbished and painted anthracite.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just seen the cost of the exhaust !  Ouch.  Anyone know the cost of replacing the clutch on the 1L?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bet the local tyre and exhaust place will be cheaper though?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been ignoring the shift light and kept the engine over 2200 rpm for years now.

It feels much more happy in general, like you're not constantly bogging it, and you actually have SOME torque available without downshifting.

Totally worth the 5%-10 increase in fuel consumption vs spending money on short term fixes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have to admit I am getting used to the vibration and just work around it.  The annoying thing is that I bought the IQ from a main dealer and although I heard the vibration on the test drive I put it down to the three cylinder engine and me not changing gear in time.  The rep must have known that the car had a vibration - i- could you have imagined on the test drive if the rep had said, don't worry about that annoying vibration - they all do that. It's no good taking it back as i find that the moment cash has changed hands the promises evaporate.  Apart from that the car is fun to drive as we initially  bought it to tow behind the motorhome - its now my main car as the fule consumption is great and it has a suprising amount of acceleration on the motorway - and we get two dogs in the back without any fuss.  The next job on the list is to change the front suspension drop links as I have the usual rattle noise when going over bumps.  I don't know if its common on the IQ but have bought two link bars to try and get rid of the noise  - funnily it only happens on the passenger side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same problem and starting to think its a bad wheel bearing. Only getting the noise when car reaches 2000rpm in 4th gear or upper, or in 3rd gird going uphill reaching 2000rpm. Have an Auris diesel 1.4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's a wheel bearing, it won't be affected by engine revs. Wheel bearing vibration will be related to road speed (mph).

Also, if you press the clutch pedal while the vibration is present does it stop? If it's a wheel bearing the vibration will still be there.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I meant to write gearbox bearing - although I am curious to understand why only at 2000rpm and under pressure, don't know why ive put down wheel bearing (although that crossed my mind too)!

Yeah it stops but then again it looses the 2000rpm mark where it only occurs, so exactly 2000rpm, every other is fine, i can feel vibration in the gear changer and clutch when it happens, and the noise seems like coming from the top left side of the car, around the tyre.

Also lets say I hit 2000 rpm in downhill it will be a lot less noticable.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has now done 50000 and is still making the same noise at 2000rpm. Have grown to live with it as local independent garage quoted £675 to replace the clutch.  They are gearbox specialists of over 30 years and had to admit they had never changed one and were surprised at the  book price for the replacement. I am going to assume that the engine needs to come out?  Its a pity that such a super car makes this fundamental noise.  Question is 'does it happen to all 1L manual cars or are some of us just unlucky?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/10/2017 at 11:15 PM, bob809 said:

Just a wee note. Our car (1.0 manual 59 plate with 70,000+ miles) has the same problem, and usually I 'ease' that problem by backing off a bit on the pedal depression, and then bring it back up again. Depending on the gradient or road it can work a treat. Probably best on a 'level' road when having to change up as speed limit increases -as in accelerating from 30 to 40mph. Also, that 40mph limit sits around the 2000 rev mark... it is so annoying. However, I try not let it get me down, as it is easy to let negatives do that. As annoyed as I get, I try to remind myself of all the good things the iQ has brought to my motoring, as that vibration has to be the worst.

  Don't know if this is related to the vibration, but our exhaust came apart yesterday (Monday 16th Jan, and had only started blowing a bit on Saturday) at the front of the back box. I had to cut the rubbers holding the exhaust pipe and back box, as trying to wire it up so it didn't scrape on the road was not working. Car is in the dealers waiting for the part to arrive from Belgium. No idea yet how much the 'Ouch' part is going to be, just hope it's not too expensive as I have been saving my pennies to get the wheels refurbished and painted anthracite.

Just had full exhaust fitted for £145 at Fiat dealers (yes a Fiat dealer).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Helisupp said:

Just had full exhaust fitted for £145 at Fiat dealers (yes a Fiat dealer).

Not unusual for what is probably the third party part. A few years ago we needed a rear box for a Honda, and the local Ford dealer was a lot cheaper than the Honda dealer.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/12/2017 at 10:22 PM, flybywire said:

Just seen the cost of the exhaust !  Ouch.  Anyone know the cost of replacing the clutch on the 1L?

It cost us £450c to replace the clutch in our 98k mile 2010 iQ

Mod edit: reference to own company's website removed due to advertising

Labour time on these is something crazy like 6hours, whereas run of the mill aygos would have a labour time of about 3-4hours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now