Reading ABS fault codes.

[fastbob72]

Hey folks,failed. my MOT. Tyres, CV boots, seatbelt etc and the ABS warning light coming on.

 

I've got an 2002 1.8 vvt-i and am wondering if it's possible to read any ABS fault codes that may well be logged manually as such.

 

It's not integrated through my OBD2 diagnosis system like on many later cars and I'm aware that on some earlier Toyotas it was possible to jump the terminals on the ABS connector to read the stored faults as flash codes similar. to emmisions faults in mid 90s pre OBDII cars.

 

Does anyone know if that's possible on a 2002 Avensis and if so where the ABS diagnostic terminal would be,the contacts that may need bridged or any other relevant information :)

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

[Konrad C]

Hi Fastbob.

Have you tried using a paperclip/wire to link terminals 4 and 13 on the OBD socket, then turn the ignition on (don't start the engine). I ABS and SRS warning indicators will flash. Constant flashes mean no fault codes stored. If the say the ABS light flashes 3 times then 1 then the front right wheel sensor is faulty.

Here is a link to an Toyota older system, but the codes are still the same, so relevant to your car. Toyota tend to be consistent and not change the code system.

http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2 spyder/References/Technical Training/05 - Brake Systems/20.pdf  

The worst code to get when using the paperclip trick is the ABS light on but not flashing. This means the ECU has died! I had this on my old Avensis years back, and changed it within hours of it failing. I got it off a scrapped car for a £10 and the actual job took half an hour - 

Hopefully it on just a wheel sensor or even a bad connection.

Konrad

 

 

[fastbob72]

Thanks Konrad,I'd expected or hoped at least you'd have some advice on this matter.

No,I've not tried it but that's what I suspected would be possible but didn't know which terminals to bridge or whether it was the main OBDII port of whether there's a specific DLC for the ABS  somewhere else in the car.

Anyway I'll be trying that tomorrow. What I'm hoping and have some reason to hope for is that the day before the test I had a sticky rear caliper so wirebrushed all around the handbrake mechanism,soaked it in WD40 except near the disc and pads obviously,used a hammer to gently knock the caliper and encourage it to loosen plus working the handbrake on and off many times to again work it loose - which altogether worked a treat but as it was the next morning when the warning light came on it seems possible I might have done something to effect that wheel sensor.

I'll post the results when I get some :)

[Konrad C]

I forgot to add clearing the fault code - pump the brake pedal fast during the diagnostic, there should be a beep and the ABS light will return to normal flashing.

For those with older cars and those whose car is not OBD2 compliant, diagnostics can be done using the paperclip or jumper wire. The following video explains:-

 

OBD2 compliant cars will need a diagnostic tool or code reader to get MIL/EML codes as that will not flash.

It's good to know about self diagnostic, as it save me £60 a few years back, when the O2 sensor of my Mk1 went faulty. 

[fastbob72]

Tried that last night and the light just continued to flash on and off which apparently means no fault code logged assuming that flash codes are readable on the later 02 obd2 Avensis but I don't see why it wouldn't be. I looked at your previous post about fixing your own ABS and from the photos it looks identical to the system in my car.

So right now it appears pretty inconclusive what the fault may be if there indeed is a fault at all., 🙁🙁

[Konrad C]

fastbob, you need to find someone who has diagnostics that can scan ABS codes. I have my Launch code reader that does that function. It even found my EPB fault, but could not reset the system - that was fixed by the paperclip trick. I would have pumped the brake pedal quickly to see if it clears any hidden codes. 

Here are the codes and system from older Toyota's which should be relevant to the Avensis up to Mk1 at least.

http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2 spyder/References/Technical Training/05 - Brake Systems/20.pdf

[Konrad C]

On 4/29/2017 at 5:58 PM, Konrad C said:

fastbob, you need to find someone who has diagnostics that can scan ABS codes. I have my Launch code reader that does that function. It even found my EPB fault, but could not reset the system - that was fixed by the paperclip trick. I would have pumped the brake pedal quickly to see if it clears any hidden codes. 

Here are the codes and system from older Toyota's which should be relevant to the Avensis up to Mk1 at least.

http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2 spyder/References/Technical Training/05 - Brake Systems/20.pdf

Re the EPB issue & paper clip method, there is a limit to what can be done if there is something that is broken or disconnected. I would love one of those professional diagnostics like my mate used to fix my car. It pinpointed what really was happening and remove the warnings, even though the fault remained. Actually I just had a thought which I post.

Hope you get the car sorted and pass the MOT. 

[fastbob72]

Well,the latest update is the car has had the drivers front up on axlestands since wednesday while I've been replacing the driverside inner CV boot.

Obviously,I'm doing it while working everyday including today. In fact it'll be tuesday before I. get a day off again but that's another woe.lol.

Anyway,replacing the boot properly entails removal of the driveshaft, or at least the outboard section of it and then removal of the tripod bearing by gentle persuasion with a large hammer and a drift.

Of course, the circlip at the inner end of the shaft pinged off and has slipped through a wormhole into another dimension of space and reality so during the rebuild process I opted to weld the area closed where the clip had been acting to lock the tripod in place.

While refitting the driveshaft,securing the new bolt,new trackrod end bolts,new split pins for the track rod and hub nut I cleaned out all the rusty matter that adheres to the area around the ABS sensor rather like rusticles on the Titanic.Some very gentle, incredible careful attention with a really small file to clear off all the collected debris.

Also before sliding the splined end back into the hub I wirebrushed and then carefully sanded the face that sits flush to the back of the hub and the toothed ABS ring.Then refitted it all to the specified torque setting etc.

What I hadn't bargained with was leaving one of the rear doors ajar and draining ever last volt out of  my Battery. Well actually that's an exaggeration,it had a full 1.98V last night lol.

Anyway, fully rebuilt. Wheelarch liner and lower engine covers all securely bolted down and once more on her wheels I got a jump start about an hour ago.

She burst straight into life as I knew she would and that's when I noticed that the ABS light behaved exactly as it should do, going put within several seconds of the engine firing.

Have tried starting it again after leaving it for 10-15 mins a couple od times since and it's still behaving itself.

Seems the warning light problem has disappeared as suddenly as it occurred in the first place.

Here's hoping the retest is in the morning :)