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Flickering Dash and Head Lights, Power Steering Stops with High Voltage Battery Reading


Tristan
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Hi all,

My Toyota seems to have developed this intermittent problem. I am pretty sure it started after a recent alternator replacement with a reconditioned one. I have also just taken the car in for the factory recall passenger inflator replacement. The problem started with only the clock lights flickering very infrequently, catching it out the corner of your eye. It would flicker for a split seconds and be normal again.  Several weeks ago the problem got worse, it would happen more frequently, and the Battery charge, high water temperature light, headlights would flicker too along with the power steering going in and out. All happening in a split second and then back to normal.

Today I managed to get some time to do some meter tests. The Battery checks out at 12.05V and has a steady 14.5V when the engine is running with everything turned on. I managed to rig the meter so I could go for a drive and check if there are any desprepencies in the meter readings when this flickering occurs, and there are, the voltage reading shoots up to well over 17V and then goes instantly back down. I have attached some videos of the problem. The Battery seems perfect, cranks well on a cold day, meter reading stays solid when headlights, wipers, stereo, electric windows are all used at the same time.

I took it to the mechanic whom replaced the alternator but the car did not play up on him and therefore could not help and gave the car back.

I assume with my limited knowledge that the regulator on this reconditioned alternator is playing up? Could someone please offer some advice? Thank you.

 

 

Car Readings - Dash Flash 1.mp4

Car Readings - Dash Flash 2.mp4

Car Readings - High.mp4

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It may be useful to know which Toyota model you have, rather than just the engine size and trim level !

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1 minute ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

It may be useful to know which Toyota model you have, rather than just the engine size and trim level !

Too true, sorry. I will update my profile. Toyota Corolla 2.0 D-4D  2006

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Moved to the Corolla club.

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Hi,

So you seem to be saying you suspected the old alternators regulator could have been faulty, but now think the replacement alternator also has the  problem ..?

Was the flashing lights  the reason for having the alternator replaced   ?

Did the guy who supplied the alternator use a new regulator,  or did he just swap over your old regulator, or just use the one that was on it ?

Your vids do seem to suggest that the voltage surge is affecting the whole electronics /dashboard, either as high voltage getting though and/ or causing a momentary reset.

Though you have the quality Fluke meter, their sampling rate is still relatively  slow so the actual voltage peak may be much higher than 17v.

Think you need to get a new regulator to prove the point, it may be just  the  regulator but  could also be the diodes failing and letting AC  through as well.

You could set your meter to AC and see if those flashing events show a large AC.

Plenty of ytubes on checking the alternator in car with your meter for both DC and AC problems.

Seems new alternators are around the £200 mark , so depended on which repair route you want to go...

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@oldcodger Thanks for your reply. Sorry I have not replied earlier it was an absolutely mad week last week.

I took my findings to back to my mechanic and told him to tear the recon. alternator back out and get it checked out by the company that reconditioned it. Turns out they found a dry solder joint on the path between the regulator and rectifier, thus the high voltage explained (that is what I was told). They did a quick resolder and all good.  I am just really annoyed that I had to trouble shoot this myself and it was so easily done with a meter. A little annoyed that the car did not play up with the mechanic on the previous trip and that the problem was simply diagnosed with a meter. Mechanic did all with no charge so happy with that.

So the lesson is, not that I did not already know this, reconditioned alternators can be dodgy, they repaired by humans and only the parts testing faulty at the time of reconditioning are replaced and so problems could easily arise.

 

 

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Glad you have got it sorted ok. :biggrin:

Have to agree, its a tricky one for you the end user to identify.

The symptoms are typical of a dry joint which fails under load / heat or cold, though equally could have been faulty diodes or regulator.

Even if they did test it, quiet possible it would have appeared ok for them, but who knows the quality of those particular engineers ?

Same for your mechanic, he was just as unlucky as you, though he has been fair in not charging for the replacement work.

 

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