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Auris Mk2 - Suspension graunch over bumps when turning


Gerg
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Hi,

When taking slow left or right hand turns at about 5-10 mph our 2013 Auris will intermittently give a suspension graunch if it hits a small bump.  The noise will come from either side, and I haven't worked out a pattern as to if it is the 'loaded-wheel-side' or not.  The car has done 49000 miles and is a hybrid fwiw.

Any others experienced this?  Was it ever fixed?

I did wonder if it was an anti-roll bar mounting, but it has done it just a few times going slowly over full-width sleeping policemen when going straight, when the ARB wouldn't be under great stress.

Anyone know if there is a Macpherson strut-top bearing that might wear or corrode?

Ta.

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There is a Technical service bulletin from Toyota which may apply:

Ref: CP-0071T-0715

Subject: Front suspension support click noise

Models: AURIS; COROLLA

Model codes: ADE186; NDE180; NRE180; ZRE185; ZWE186; NDE180; NRE180; ZRE181; ZRE182

DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may experience and report an abnormal knocking noise from the front suspension area when manoeuvring the steering wheel. The concern is related to a manufacturing issue of the front suspension support which, under certain load conditions, can make noise during operation.

PRODUCTION CHANGE: The manufacturing process of the front suspension support has been modified. ( Top Strut mount )

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1) Disassemble of the Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly according to the repair manual. - SUSPENSION > FRONT SUSPENSION > FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER> REMOVAL

2) Install the new Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly according to the repair manual. - SUSPENSION > FRONT SUSPENSION > FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER> INSTALLATION

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update:-  These new strut tops have now been fitted.

However, when casting an eye over the removed old parts when collecting the car, I realised that a (foam) dust seal for one of the strut top bearings was still attached to the old bearing assembly (the bearings have no built-in seal on either side).  The new strut tops did not come complete with these seals, so one new strut top has no seal.  If Toyota deemed it worthy to fit it originally, then it must have some purpose!

Amazing.

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  • 1 month later...

I booked the car back in to the dealer (at the soonest date) to have the (missing) weather seal put back on to the strut. Unfortunately, there was no easy way of knowing which strut had its seal left off, so potentially, both struts had to come out again, and in the interim a bearing would be left exposed to salt water and road crud.

There were no courtesy cars available for weeks, so I would have to wait at the dealer whilst it was done (3hrs).  In the event, I had a long trip I wanted to do in the car the day before that appointment, so I thought 'stuff it!*, I'll do it myself!'. 

* This is not the exact exclamation.

During that repair, I noticed that the l/h wiper arm would probably have come loose after a few weeks as it had not been tightened up much during the previous dealer repair. But, by way of balance, the wheel nuts had been perfectly torqued.

But sadly, the graunch was still there.

 

 

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Can't speak specifically for the Auris, but on other cars you'd be looking at worn anti-roll-bar bushes whenever this sort of graunching noise occurred during cornering (or perhaps over speed bumps).

I had it on a Focus many years ago, and IIRC it cost about £120 to have both sides done. I gather the job is also a quick and easy DIY proposition, but you may need to check the tracking afterwards.

 

 

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Thanks for the suggestion.  There is a further update that I hadn't got around to posting.

The anti-roll drop links were replaced by the dealer when the strut tops were changed out, as they were damaged whilst trying to remove them.  So I was able to rule those out.

I removed the anti-roll bar bushes that sit in the front sub-frame, covered them with silicone grease on all surfaces and carefully reassembled, this was much, much easier than was described in the (admittedly, Auris mk1) manual that I was using, but did not change the problem.

Lastly, I sprayed silicone oil onto the A-frame rubber bushes (2 per side - a console bush in VAG terminology). This silicone was just general purpose spray that had come from Lidl and I already had kicking about. The rear bush is a horizontal circular disc and is easily accessed, the front is a more traditional tubular bush and is shrouded by the sub-frame, so not so easy. Toyota does not list them separate to the A-frame, I think.

It has been quiet since.

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/1/2018 at 1:04 PM, Gerg said:

Hi,

When taking slow left or right hand turns at about 5-10 mph our 2013 Auris will intermittently give a suspension graunch if it hits a small bump.  The noise will come from either side, and I haven't worked out a pattern as to if it is the 'loaded-wheel-side' or not.  The car has done 49000 miles and is a hybrid fwiw.

Any others experienced this?  Was it ever fixed?

I did wonder if it was an anti-roll bar mounting, but it has done it just a few times going slowly over full-width sleeping policemen when going straight, when the ARB wouldn't be under great stress.

Anyone know if there is a Macpherson strut-top bearing that might wear or corrode?

Ta.

 

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Hi I own a Toyota Auris 2013 hybrid 1.8 Icon it has 52,250 miles on it. It makes a noise every time I go over a hump only if there are 2 or 3 passengers sitting at the back. It’s a 5 people car so this is outrageous. In November 2019 I got my Toyota dealer to fix a cat lock so that the catalytic converter can not get stolen. Now I go over humps the noise is even worse. I took it back to Toyota dealerJemca Edgware Road,  London   and they said it’s only natural. 

I Took it to my local garage they put it up on the ramp checked everything with a torch for suspension seem fine they also put extra air in my tyres  but the noise is still there.

Has anybody else had the same problem like this please advise as I’m intending to make a formal complaint to Toyota Great Britain perhaps a recall is required ??

kind regards

 

Umesh Raichada 

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Hi Raichada,

Does the sound come from the front? I own a 2014 Auris Hybrid and had some creaking noises, just like this: 

It has been fixed very easy:

 

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Umesh, I not seen the video link (won’t load), but I read all the comments re others with similar noise. Seems you may have same problem. It isn’t serious and with the correct lubricant applied it should quite the rubber bushes. Your car is 6 years old, done 50k miles, you will get little niggles but they can be sorted easily and in the meantime your car is not going to fall apart.

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  • 7 months later...
On 2/1/2018 at 9:59 PM, Devon Aygo said:

There is a Technical service bulletin from Toyota which may apply:

Ref: CP-0071T-0715

Subject: Front suspension support click noise

Models: AURIS; COROLLA

Model codes: ADE186; NDE180; NRE180; ZRE185; ZWE186; NDE180; NRE180; ZRE181; ZRE182

DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may experience and report an abnormal knocking noise from the front suspension area when manoeuvring the steering wheel. The concern is related to a manufacturing issue of the front suspension support which, under certain load conditions, can make noise during operation.

PRODUCTION CHANGE: The manufacturing process of the front suspension support has been modified. ( Top Strut mount )

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1) Disassemble of the Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly according to the repair manual. - SUSPENSION > FRONT SUSPENSION > FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER> REMOVAL

2) Install the new Front Suspension Support Sub-Assembly according to the repair manual. - SUSPENSION > FRONT SUSPENSION > FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER> INSTALLATION

I've got 2013 Auris TS Hybrid (ZWE186) at 85k miles.

It started to rattle like crazy recently (noise starts around 9 sec in the video)

https://open.lbry.com/@CDIY:f/Toyota-Auris-Suspension-Knock:5

Do you think that my issue is related to the service bulletin or sway bar bushings have worn out?

Thanks a ton!

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I've turned the sound right up on my computer but I can't hear the sound clearly enough, unfortunately.

Just some random ideas:-

Have you considered a loose engine undertray? 

The self tapping screws that attach the bumper to the undertray are also very corrosion prone, so just maybe, possibly, rusted through?

The longitudinal plastic 'pods' that fit  under the car, (one left, one right) fill up with road grit and muck from the front wheels which must make a noise when disturbed.  I got about a half kilo of gravel out of one of mine a while back.  The large cross-headed circular clips that hold these in place are a push fit, but are meant to unscrew, I think.  But if you apply any upward pressure on the ratchet/ push mechanism when unscrewing, that just engages the thread that you've carefully undone - challenging!

Even when screwed up tightly (from behind the wheel arch liner) the fog lamps are quite wobbly - nothing there?

Unlikely to be this one, but anyway - loose brake pads in their calipers?

Another outsider here, the nut that holds the strut damper rod into the suspension top mount - loose?  This will possibly need the windscreen wiper cowling off to get proper access to the strut top.  Be warned, there are plenty of weak plastic clips attaching the wiper tray plastic cover to the metal bulkhead.  The dealer broke most of mine clean off, so I should be thankful that I don't have to carefully remove them any more.  This whole wiper-cowling area of the car looks like it was finished off by the Toyota bog cleaner, when the rest of the design office nipped out for a long lunch down the pub. 

I used an Allen key inserted through a regular spark plug socket to tighten the strut top, which i held with a spanner on its external flats (that spark plug sockets often seem to have).  But, I wasn't checking my strut tops for tightness - I was removing the strut. The garage had accidentally left off a foam weatherproofing washer on the strut top.  I wanted the car back, so I took it to pieces again myself a short while later.

When my strut top mounts were replaced under warranty (re: the TSB you mentioned), there was no obvious visual difference between the new and the old ones.

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1 hour ago, Gerg said:

I've turned the sound right up on my computer but I can't hear the sound clearly enough, unfortunately.

Just some random ideas:-

Have you considered a loose engine undertray? 

The self tapping screws that attach the bumper to the undertray are also very corrosion prone, so just maybe, possibly, rusted through?

The longitudinal plastic 'pods' that fit  under the car, (one left, one right) fill up with road grit and muck from the front wheels which must make a noise when disturbed.  I got about a half kilo of gravel out of one of mine a while back.  The large cross-headed circular clips that hold these in place are a push fit, but are meant to unscrew, I think.  But if you apply any upward pressure on the ratchet/ push mechanism when unscrewing, that just engages the thread that you've carefully undone - challenging!

Even when screwed up tightly (from behind the wheel arch liner) the fog lamps are quite wobbly - nothing there?

Unlikely to be this one, but anyway - loose brake pads in their calipers?

Another outsider here, the nut that holds the strut damper rod into the suspension top mount - loose?  This will possibly need the windscreen wiper cowling off to get proper access to the strut top.  Be warned, there are plenty of weak plastic clips attaching the wiper tray plastic cover to the metal bulkhead.  The dealer broke most of mine clean off, so I should be thankful that I don't have to carefully remove them any more.  This whole wiper-cowling area of the car looks like it was finished off by the Toyota bog cleaner, when the rest of the design office nipped out for a long lunch down the pub. 

I used an Allen key inserted through a regular spark plug socket to tighten the strut top, which i held with a spanner on its external flats (that spark plug sockets often seem to have).  But, I wasn't checking my strut tops for tightness - I was removing the strut. The garage had accidentally left off a foam weatherproofing washer on the strut top.  I wanted the car back, so I took it to pieces again myself a short while later.

When my strut top mounts were replaced under warranty (re: the TSB you mentioned), there was no obvious visual difference between the new and the old ones.

 

This issue seems to be suspension related. 

All bushings look worn out but not terribly. The only thing I didn't check yet is sway bar bushes and strut top mounts.
Pictures and more info here: https://priuschat.com/threads/2013-suspension-knock-help-needed.219943

I defo have some gravel under the side covers. Any tips on how to get them out appreciated. Have you got a service manual how to dismantle them? Engine cover cleaned every 10k.

 

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To save me reading through old posts, you did try the silicone spray on the lower suspension arm bushes?  It doesn't always work immediately on the first application.

For removing the side pods I just had to learn extraordinary levels of patience, and to keep trying to gently unscrew the fasteners without pressing them.

I don't have a manual I'm afraid.  There used to be an unofficial online one for the Auris gen 1, but the link died a while back.  When using the official Toyota Tech online manual service (paid for) £4 per hr, I read that PDF downloads are no longer possible, just screenshots.

The closest I can suggest is a copy of the official manual for a Prius gen3 plug-in, in English.  It gives you a good idea of torque values etc, and the engine is identical, of course.  But the rear suspension is completely different.

The catch is, you have to sign up to the French/European website Hybridlife, which is simple and free.  Google will translate their forums for you quite well.  The manual is in their documents section, I can send you a link.  It's about 400MB, and lends itself to being put on a CD, but this isn't essential.

There is this thread from there about one owner's suspension headache :- https://hybridlife.org/threads/bruit-amortisseur-avant-droit.6020/

The French are having these suspension noise problems too, it seems.    Translation tip for Hybridlife.org:-    CT = MoT test.    Norauto = Halfords.

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