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PumpkinSteve

Where to buy variable boot floor for 2015 Yaris?

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Other countries have this:

Toyota-Yaris-Bootspace.jpg

I think the mounting points are still there for it. Does anyone know the part number of the shelf to order from a dealer?

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Part # 58410-0D050-B0 from your local dealer

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Silly question maybe.

What's it for?  Why have a false floor above?  Is it so you can carry a full-sized spare wheel?

Mick.

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4 hours ago, Mick F said:

What's it for?  Why have a false floor above?  Is it so you can carry a full-sized spare wheel?

Two reasons I can think of:

  1. a space for long term storage - not sure what though as I pack stuff around the spare wheel
  2. it makes a flat level for when rear seats are lowered.

These are also available on ebay via Toyota shop and others.

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Thanks Mike.

The level floor sounds about right and a good idea too.  I can see me getting hold of some plywood and making my own instead of buying a Toyota item.

Maybe make a couple or three cardboard pattern pieces to get the profiles correct, then draw round them on the plywood and using a jigsaw to cut it out.  Sounds like a nice job for when the better weather comes along.

Before we bought our Yaris Hybrid, we looked seriously at a Honda Jazz and one of the big selling points was the level floor.  The seat bases hinge downward so they lie underneath the seat backs when they fold to create a level floor right through.  Very impressive and well designed.

Can't do that with a hybrid though! :biggrin:

Mick.

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I have had the variable boot floor on my Yaris for a couple of years now.

Got it so I can easily load my wife's mobility scooter. Apart from that I rarely remove it as it provides extra secure storage space underneath for maps, tom tom etc. 

Do not expect much change out of £100 when buying from a Toyota dealer.

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Questions:

Why is it called "variable"?

What do you do with it when it's not in use?

Are these two questions connected?  Is it just put at the lower position when not in use - hence the "variable"?

Mick.

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Answered my own questions.  It's all in the handbook, though it's called a Deck Board.

I'll be making my own.

Mick.

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1 hour ago, Mick F said:

Questions:

Why is it called "variable"?

What do you do with it when it's not in use?

On some cars the floor panel or deck board can be folded to provide more depth for part of the boot yet retaining some storage beneath. Our i20 has this

We keep our floor panel in place.

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Save yourself £90 and make one from 9mm m.d.f.. Just waiting for 1sq.m of black car carpet to finish it off. Hole is for removal. Made a cardboard template as a guide for cutting the m.d.f.. Parcel tape in the centre is to facilitate removal while trimming to fit.:laugh:

IMG_20180214_140950.jpg

IMG_20180214_140957.jpg

IMG_20180214_144644.jpg

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Wow, nice job! :thumbsup: That looks really tidy - Do you still have the measurements?

I should have a crack at making a parcel shelf for New Yaris as the factory one is total garbage; It's made of some flimsy foam and only held on by gravity on the two pegs!


 

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4 hours ago, Cyker said:

 That looks really tidy - Do you still have the measurements?

I bought a 1220mm x 610mm sheet of 9mm thick m.d.f.. The width required is 996mm (that allowed 2mm each side with the actual between the rear quarter plastic trims of 1000mm)and the 610mm is spot on and didn't need reducing, front to back. The cardboard template was cut to 996x610 then five equidistant measurements taken at 100mm front to back and one edge to the centre. These are "mirrored" for the other side. They are from the front of the two supports just behind the rear seat back to the front of the hatch door threshold trim. Transferred to the template. Then cut the profile for that trim. This was the hardest bit with a few trial end error fittings until it was a good lose fit. A hole saw was used for the finger hole.

Transfer the template to the m.d.f. and use a "Sharpie" marker for the outline. Cut with the jigsaw, I wouldn't like to try it with a handsaw. A few trial fits and some sandpapering on the profile and that's it. I think it might need a couple of transverse strengthening braces depending on what the deck is going to support. I can use the m.d.f. offcut for that. It does flex slightly when pushed in the middle. I'll use spray adhesive for the carpet - solvent - beware.:mellow:

I'll take a picture of my crude drawing tomorrow and post it here. Just in case the above sounds like nonsense.:laugh:

Don't know what happened but I only intended to quote the first line!?

Yes, the Mk 3 "parcel" shelf is quite flimsy too. It would have to be a very light parcel.

 


 

 

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I made a cardboard template of the curves and then a hardboard one in two halves.  Yet to buy the MDF.  Could buy plywood perhaps.  No rush.

What I did, was to cut up some cardboard box and trim it with scissors to fit the curve in one corner.  Then extended it up the straight side to the rear seatback and joined it up with parcel tape.  Then, I extended along the rear edge curve to the halfway point, then taped that one to the the other two pieces so I had one former that I could invert so it fitted the other side.

Next, I took two squares of scrap hardboard and drew the cardboard shape on them and cut them out with a jigsaw.  These two pieces sit in place quite well and I used a felt pen to mark where the hardboard didn't fit too well so when I use them to draw round on the MDF or plywood, I can modify the drawing a tad, so it'll fit better.

Mick.

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I forgot to mention that I too did similar to you Mick with the curved corners. I made a left and right template cut from smaller pieces of card then superimposed those onto the bigger template. I have now cut two 50mm wide braces, for underneath, from the offcuts. I intend to screw and glue those in place after the carpet has been fixed. That could induce a giggle using the aerosol, solvent based, adhesive.:laugh:(NO, NO)

Remember this is for a 2014 Mk 3 Yaris.:smile:Using the dimensions shown there is a small gap between the front of the board and the rear seat backs which doesn't concern me. I think that is a better option because the m.d.f. was a stock 610mm so no requirement for further cutting. Plus for flush to the seat back the front outside corners have to be cut to accomodate the two supports there.

IMG_20180215_084304.jpg

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Niiiiice! :thumbsup:
 

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I never got round to making my own, but found this on eBay.  £51.99 seems a good price ................ and instead of paying twenty odd quid for a piece of plywood and spending time fashioning it, it seems a good deal to buy one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Yaris-Boot-Luggage-Liner-High-Floor-Trunk-New-PZ434-B1303-PJ-OE/261604173689?epid=1930608017&hash=item3ce8d2e779:g:Pr0AAOSwVFlUIptr

Trouble is, is it the correct on for a 2104 Yaris?

Mick.

 

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Just thinking ............................ Is this just the liner and not the raised floor as well?

Mick.

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If £90 is too much then I would wait until a pre owned one became available on ebay, but I would also consider the safety aspects of not having the panel secured down as items plus the panel itself could be launched into the cabin area in a collision or such, just saying.

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19 hours ago, Mick F said:

I never got round to making my own, but found this on eBay.  £51.99 seems a good price ................ and instead of paying twenty odd quid for a piece of plywood and spending time fashioning it, it seems a good deal to buy one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Yaris-Boot-Luggage-Liner-High-Floor-Trunk-New-PZ434-B1303-PJ-OE/261604173689?epid=1930608017&hash=item3ce8d2e779:g:Pr0AAOSwVFlUIptr

Trouble is, is it the correct on for a 2104 Yaris?

Mick.

Each to their own. We can't all go and just splash out over £100 or even £51. At least you know how strong a homemade one is and that it fits properly being bespoke for a particular vehicle. MDF, not plywood. 🙂

19 hours ago, Mick F said:

 

 

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On 1/4/2019 at 7:11 PM, stantheman1 said:

If £90 is too much then I would wait until a pre owned one became available on ebay, but I would also consider the safety aspects of not having the panel secured down as items plus the panel itself could be launched into the cabin area in a collision or such, just saying.

I found three pieces of 20mm MDF and I'm in the process of joining them together and making my own floor.  I'm going to fit a length of aluminium strip along the front edge.

The floor sits on the ledges on the sides, rear, and lugs at each corner of the front.  These lugs are shaped to stop the floor from lifting out so the only way of removing the floor is to lift it at the rear and withdraw out of the rear door.  Therefore the floor cannot launch itself into the cabin area.

As for anything on the floor itself, it would be up to the driver to make sure everything is secured properly ................. just as normal.

Mick.

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6 hours ago, Mick F said:

I found three pieces of 20mm MDF and I'm in the process of joining them together and making my own floor.  I'm going to fit a length of aluminium strip along the front edge.

The floor sits on the ledges on the sides, rear, and lugs at each corner of the front.  These lugs are shaped to stop the floor from lifting out so the only way of removing the floor is to lift it at the rear and withdraw out of the rear door.  Therefore the floor cannot launch itself into the cabin area.

As for anything on the floor itself, it would be up to the driver to make sure everything is secured properly ................. just as normal.

Mick.

On the mk2 the false floor has 2 'turn keys' to secure the floor down, this also acts to stop the floor from bouncing when travelling over speed humps etc. It was this scenario that was my main concern so if the 'lugs' you have fitted prevent this from happening then I see no problem with your design.

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The lugs are on the plastic of the car.  The floor is slotted in forwards at an angle, then lowered at the rear.  I used the alu strip to locate in the bottom of the lugs.

My home-made floor wasn't measured correctly!  I had to re-fit the bits I cut out at the front end and there's now a one inch gap between the floor and the rear seats.  No issue really I suppose.

Here's a piccy of the floor fitted.  Hole-saw cut the finger hole ok even though it was through 20mm of MDF.  I'll be removing it later, and I'll take a piccy of the lugs.

Mick.

IMG_0039.jpg

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This is the RH lug.  You can see that the floor slots in and won't lift.  You have to lift up the rear and withdrawer outwards.

Mick.

IMG_0040.jpg

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